Gold, I may try increasing the load as you said. I also have another lead from my scouring of the internet...this Blinker Genie component
https://www.customled.com/products/blinker-genie
Ya'll may have more educated opinions on it.
Apparently it converts any 2-wire LED blinker into a 3-wire. According to the install instructions you connect the extra wire to any ignition switched running light circuit. There is also talk of wiring in a diode somewhere to do the trick.
https://www.wristtwisters.com/threads/tu...hts.28785/ Thread here if you're curious. Also starting to wonder if I'm barking up the wrong tree and my solution is as simple as using different LED signals that don't have the dynamic "sweeping" flash pattern.
Anyway, I appreciate everyone's insight on this so far, I am learning a fair amount. Thank you.
I'll say what I've said in a different thread - Max came up with a solution for me to splice the front signals to the rear signals, solves the problem if you are ok with some wiring mods
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
(03-17-2021, 11:15 PM)tod.branko_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I'll say what I've said in a different thread - Max came up with a solution for me to splice the front signals to the rear signals, solves the problem if you are ok with some wiring mods
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
This is a wonderfully simple idea that I think I will borrow. Thanks.
(03-14-2021, 03:00 AM)hardylt_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (03-09-2021, 01:23 AM)FLYTYM_imp Wrote: [ -> ]About 3 weeks ago I ordered the correct LED relay from Webike,hopefully it doesn't give me any grief.
Okay, I installed it--I have good news and bad news. The good news is it effectively solved the hyper flash issue on all four turn signals. No need for resistors! The hazards function also still works fine. All good on that front.
The bad news (and it may only be bad news for me and these particular LED signals I bought) is now both my front signals flicker faintly at all times, except when the blinker is activated, at which point they function normally. My rear signals--another identical pair of the same kind--have no such problem. This confirms my suspicion that the running light voltage being sent to the front signals is causing the flickering. So my new question, perhaps the question I should have started with is:
Does anyone out there know how in the world you can remove the running light function of our front turn signals?? As far as I understand so far, that is a command sent somehow from within the relay, and I am way out of my depth at that point. It must use the same positive wire going to each signal since there is only one.
Okay, I installed it--I have good news and bad news. The good news is it effectively solved the hyper flash issue on all four turn signals. No need for resistors! The hazards function also still works fine. All good on that front.
The bad news (and it may only be bad news for me and these particular LED signals I bought) is now both my front signals flicker faintly at all times, except when the blinker is activated, at which point they function normally. My rear signals--another identical pair of the same kind--have no such problem. This confirms my suspicion that the running light voltage being sent to the front signals is causing the flickering. So my new question, perhaps the question I should have started with is:
Does anyone out there know how in the world you can remove the running light function of our front turn signals?? As far as I understand so far, that is a command sent somehow from within the relay, and I am way out of my depth at that point. It must use the same positive wire going to each signal since there is only one.
From my understanding, the "RS" version (2017 and later) are equipped with LED flashers, my questions are:
1. How did HONDA prevent/reduce the flickering?
2. Did HONDA use the POSCH relay?
I actually do not understand why this is an issue in the first place.
Pretty fundamental stuff.
If you Google hyperflashing you can find some good explanations. But short story—has to do with load resistance. When a diode (an LED is a diode) turns on (or is forward biased) its resistance goes to a very low value. Much lower than a bulb. Causes the circuit driving the LEDs to, well, hyper flash. Google to find more in-depth explanation.
Understood. Fundamental.
The part I don't understand is how does this get out of Honda production? This is not a difficult problem for a company like Honda. Maybe they out source it and Quality Assurance has bigger issues to tackle.
Is there a switching supply component involved off the 12V rail or built into the lighting subassembly?
(03-17-2021, 11:15 PM)tod.branko_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I'll say what I've said in a different thread - Max came up with a solution for me to splice the front signals to the rear signals, solves the problem if you are ok with some wiring mods
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
What's the benefit of this again?
I mean, tapping into the front turn signal cables for the rear and not use the proper rear signal cables
Go, I don’t know. Could be either.
E11–You kind of have that backwards. What Tod and Max are saying is to disconnect the front signals from their relay connections, and connect the signals to the rear signal connections. Why would you do this? Well the rear do not have 12v on them all the time as they are not used as running lights. So the fronts and rears are only on when you select a turn. When the turn signal is cancelled, all 4 lights are out.
Yes, that’s how I understood it as well. Just abandon the front signal circuit and voila, no more issues caused by running light power.
At this point, my only issue now is the faint flickering in front signals when not activated, i.e. most of the time. I had hoped the POSH relay would do away with front signal running light power, but I guess not (unless something else is causing the flickering). I suspected that my LED signals and their sweeping flash pattern may be part of the problem, and yesterday the signal manufacturer finally got back to me and confirmed that no, they cannot be used as running lights. So for what it’s worth there is another small piece of this puzzle. But what I still don’t understand is why then are they not just flashing all the time if they are receiving 12v all the time? Doesn’t the relay work by just intermittently cutting them off? But the only time they really come on is when I activate them. I’m sure I’m missing something.
Anyway, this weekend I’ll just tie them into the rear signals, and hopefully that will be the end of it.