The CB1100 Community Forum

Hi, anyone locally want to help install a yoshimura slip on? Im out tools and honestly just dont want to screw things up. Haven't worked on bikes in forever. I'm located in Bartlett, IL

(06-04-2014, 10:51 AM)jm0327_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Hi, anyone locally want to help install a yoshimura slip on? Im out tools and honestly just dont want to screw things up. Haven't worked on bikes in forever. I'm located in Bartlett, IL

I just put the RS3 on mine. Super easy. The hardest part was getting my fat hands into the little space to put the center stand stop bracket in. I'll see if I can get some pictures of how it goes in.

(06-04-2014, 12:10 PM)Ourfreedom_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(06-04-2014, 10:51 AM)jm0327_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Hi, anyone locally want to help install a yoshimura slip on? Im out tools and honestly just dont want to screw things up. Haven't worked on bikes in forever. I'm located in Bartlett, IL

I just put the RS3 on mine. Super easy. The hardest part was getting my fat hands into the little space to put the center stand stop bracket in. I'll see if I can get some pictures of how it goes in.

I just put the RS3 on mine. Super easy. The hardest part was getting my fat hands into the little space to put the center stand stop bracket in. I'll see if I can get some pictures of how it goes in.
Thatd be awesome. I appreciate any help!

hey buddy it's like 3 bolts, piece of cake. I'm not mechanically inclined and installed mine in like 10 mins.

if memory serves you have 1 bolt at the bottom where the muffler attaches to the cat; then one on top of the muffler.

you'll want to put it on the centerstand while you do the install for sure.

(06-04-2014, 01:18 PM)12cb96vfr_imp Wrote: [ -> ]hey buddy it's like 3 bolts, piece of cake. I'm not mechanically inclined and installed mine in like 10 mins.

if memory serves you have 1 bolt at the bottom where the muffler attaches to the cat; then one on top of the muffler.

you'll want to put it on the centerstand while you do the install for sure.

did you guys end up using torque wrench specs? My friend still has my torque wrench, so everything will be hand tight until i get it back next week.
couple more questions:
1) is the yoshimura center stand bracket just used as a spacer/for clearance, opposed to the stock center stand bracket?
2)what's the center stand shaft bolt/where located that i remove?

i know, n00b questions, but honestly never had a bike w/ a center stand attached, (always used my own) and still waiting on my service manual from helminc to familiarize myself more with parts.. just SUPER rusty on bikes, more of a car guy... on a unrelated happy note, I did place some orders with Takeshi and am starting a hakofugu cafe conversion haha.

yes sir, I sure did. I torqued everything then rode, I re-checked after about 100 miles (everything was fine).

I actually have the 2-bros, and I thought it was very similar, I didn't have to change anything on the center stand. might have to wait for someone w/ the yosh to chime in on that one, sorry bud!

dude ask away, its what we're here for!!!

(06-04-2014, 02:32 PM)12cb96vfr_imp Wrote: [ -> ]yes sir, I sure did. I torqued everything then rode, I re-checked after about 100 miles (everything was fine).

I actually have the 2-bros, and I thought it was very similar, I didn't have to change anything on the center stand. might have to wait for someone w/ the yosh to chime in on that one, sorry bud!

dude ask away, its what we're here for!!!

i wanted the staintune, but if i'm going to spend that much, i'm going to get a whole system. Also, so from reading all the forums, it seems the general consensus is you don't need a power commander with the slip ons; only if you end up changing the whole system, is that correct?

Here's the steps:

Look at the heat shield on the exhaust by the right-side foot peg. There's a small hex bolt holding it on. Remove the bolt. Push the shield forward and it will pop off.

Look underneath the bike where the heat shield was. You'll see a band clamp that holds the muffler to the end of the headers. There's a 12MM bolt. Loosen the bolt completely so the band is easily moved around the pipe.

On top of the muffler by the right-side passenger peg there's a bolt and nut that "hang" the muffler. Take two 12MM wrenches and/or socket and remove the nut. Leave the bolt for now.

Get a beer and drink it.

Grab the muffler and support it's weight. Remove the "hanger" bolt. Now start pulling and twisting the muffler straight back. IT'S HEAVY. It won't take long until it pops off. Grab one of your wife's best towels, wrap it around the muffler, tape it up, and stash it for when you decide you don't like the noise from the new pipe anymore.

Installing the new exhaust will be virtually the same process in reverse.

If the new exhaust came with it's own clamp, slip it over the small end. Orient it so the bolt or hex-head is facing out where you can put a wrench on it. If it uses the OEM clamp, slip it on.

Locate the new exhaust's "hanger;" which will probably use the same bolt and nut the OEM pipe used. Line up the new pipe with the end of the header and gently push and twist it on until the hanger bracket hole lines up with the hole on the pipe's bracket.

Put the bolt through the holes and snug up the nut. It needs to be tight, but not stupid-tight. Pull your wrench until you feel it get tight, and stop there.

Line the clamp so it bumps against the flange at the end of the header pipes. Again, rotate it so the bolt or hex-head is easy to put a wrench or hex-key on. Tighten it up. Like the hanger bolt, it needs to be snug, but don't overdo it. Tighten until it's snug, then stop.

Some of the kits will come with a new gasket that fits between the muffler and the header; some kits re-use the OEM gasket. It looks like a section of tube, and it should be obvious where it goes. It's silver, so if you aren't looking for it, you may miss it. Usually the gasket will stay inside the OEM pipe when it comes off, so read the instructions with your new pipe and see if they provide one. If not, make sure you get the OEM out of the factory pipe and onto the header end before you put the new pipe on.

(06-05-2014, 06:29 AM)The Spaceman_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Here's the steps:

Look at the heat shield on the exhaust by the right-side foot peg. There's a small hex bolt holding it on. Remove the bolt. Push the shield forward and it will pop off.

Look underneath the bike where the heat shield was. You'll see a band clamp that holds the muffler to the end of the headers. There's a 12MM bolt. Loosen the bolt completely so the band is easily moved around the pipe.

On top of the muffler by the right-side passenger peg there's a bolt and nut that "hang" the muffler. Take two 12MM wrenches and/or socket and remove the nut. Leave the bolt for now.

Get a beer and drink it.

Grab the muffler and support it's weight. Remove the "hanger" bolt. Now start pulling and twisting the muffler straight back. IT'S HEAVY. It won't take long until it pops off. Grab one of your wife's best towels, wrap it around the muffler, tape it up, and stash it for when you decide you don't like the noise from the new pipe anymore.

Installing the new exhaust will be virtually the same process in reverse.

If the new exhaust came with it's own clamp, slip it over the small end. Orient it so the bolt or hex-head is facing out where you can put a wrench on it. If it uses the OEM clamp, slip it on.

Locate the new exhaust's "hanger;" which will probably use the same bolt and nut the OEM pipe used. Line up the new pipe with the end of the header and gently push and twist it on until the hanger bracket hole lines up with the hole on the pipe's bracket.

Put the bolt through the holes and snug up the nut. It needs to be tight, but not stupid-tight. Pull your wrench until you feel it get tight, and stop there.

Line the clamp so it bumps against the flange at the end of the header pipes. Again, rotate it so the bolt or hex-head is easy to put a wrench or hex-key on. Tighten it up. Like the hanger bolt, it needs to be snug, but don't overdo it. Tighten until it's snug, then stop.

Some of the kits will come with a new gasket that fits between the muffler and the header; some kits re-use the OEM gasket. It looks like a section of tube, and it should be obvious where it goes. It's silver, so if you aren't looking for it, you may miss it. Usually the gasket will stay inside the OEM pipe when it comes off, so read the instructions with your new pipe and see if they provide one. If not, make sure you get the OEM out of the factory pipe and onto the header end before you put the new pipe on.

hey! thanks so much for that, def helped and actually installed it tonight. 1 thing i DEF need addressed.. my OEM gasket has no way of fitting with the slip on. its literally the same diameter as the slip on pipe, so can't fit inside the pipe and won't go over. There was also no gasket included anywhere with my parts.. i can feel the exhaust leak.. did i get short handed on parts??

(06-05-2014, 03:15 PM)jm0327_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(06-05-2014, 06:29 AM)The Spaceman_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Here's the steps:

Look at the heat shield on the exhaust by the right-side foot peg. There's a small hex bolt holding it on. Remove the bolt. Push the shield forward and it will pop off.

Look underneath the bike where the heat shield was. You'll see a band clamp that holds the muffler to the end of the headers. There's a 12MM bolt. Loosen the bolt completely so the band is easily moved around the pipe.

On top of the muffler by the right-side passenger peg there's a bolt and nut that "hang" the muffler. Take two 12MM wrenches and/or socket and remove the nut. Leave the bolt for now.

Get a beer and drink it.

Grab the muffler and support it's weight. Remove the "hanger" bolt. Now start pulling and twisting the muffler straight back. IT'S HEAVY. It won't take long until it pops off. Grab one of your wife's best towels, wrap it around the muffler, tape it up, and stash it for when you decide you don't like the noise from the new pipe anymore.

Installing the new exhaust will be virtually the same process in reverse.

If the new exhaust came with it's own clamp, slip it over the small end. Orient it so the bolt or hex-head is facing out where you can put a wrench on it. If it uses the OEM clamp, slip it on.

Locate the new exhaust's "hanger;" which will probably use the same bolt and nut the OEM pipe used. Line up the new pipe with the end of the header and gently push and twist it on until the hanger bracket hole lines up with the hole on the pipe's bracket.

Put the bolt through the holes and snug up the nut. It needs to be tight, but not stupid-tight. Pull your wrench until you feel it get tight, and stop there.

Line the clamp so it bumps against the flange at the end of the header pipes. Again, rotate it so the bolt or hex-head is easy to put a wrench or hex-key on. Tighten it up. Like the hanger bolt, it needs to be snug, but don't overdo it. Tighten until it's snug, then stop.

Some of the kits will come with a new gasket that fits between the muffler and the header; some kits re-use the OEM gasket. It looks like a section of tube, and it should be obvious where it goes. It's silver, so if you aren't looking for it, you may miss it. Usually the gasket will stay inside the OEM pipe when it comes off, so read the instructions with your new pipe and see if they provide one. If not, make sure you get the OEM out of the factory pipe and onto the header end before you put the new pipe on.

hey! thanks so much for that, def helped and actually installed it tonight. 1 thing i DEF need addressed.. my OEM gasket has no way of fitting with the slip on. its literally the same diameter as the slip on pipe, so can't fit inside the pipe and won't go over. There was also no gasket included anywhere with my parts.. i can feel the exhaust leak.. did i get short handed on parts??

Did the Yoshimura not come with model-specific installation instructions that reference the use of either the stock gasket or a new one supplied by Yoshimura? I find it hard to believe that they expected the slip joint to be effective without a gasket.

If the sizing is such that a typical silicone-graphite gasket will not fit, you may need to purchase some high-temp RTV silicone. Once cured, it generally creates an effective gasket, impervious to exhaust heat.