(06-05-2014, 08:52 PM)Gumby 1100_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (06-05-2014, 03:15 PM)jm0327_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (06-05-2014, 06:29 AM)The Spaceman_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Here's the steps:
Look at the heat shield on the exhaust by the right-side foot peg. There's a small hex bolt holding it on. Remove the bolt. Push the shield forward and it will pop off.
Look underneath the bike where the heat shield was. You'll see a band clamp that holds the muffler to the end of the headers. There's a 12MM bolt. Loosen the bolt completely so the band is easily moved around the pipe.
On top of the muffler by the right-side passenger peg there's a bolt and nut that "hang" the muffler. Take two 12MM wrenches and/or socket and remove the nut. Leave the bolt for now.
Get a beer and drink it.
Grab the muffler and support it's weight. Remove the "hanger" bolt. Now start pulling and twisting the muffler straight back. IT'S HEAVY. It won't take long until it pops off. Grab one of your wife's best towels, wrap it around the muffler, tape it up, and stash it for when you decide you don't like the noise from the new pipe anymore.
Installing the new exhaust will be virtually the same process in reverse.
If the new exhaust came with it's own clamp, slip it over the small end. Orient it so the bolt or hex-head is facing out where you can put a wrench on it. If it uses the OEM clamp, slip it on.
Locate the new exhaust's "hanger;" which will probably use the same bolt and nut the OEM pipe used. Line up the new pipe with the end of the header and gently push and twist it on until the hanger bracket hole lines up with the hole on the pipe's bracket.
Put the bolt through the holes and snug up the nut. It needs to be tight, but not stupid-tight. Pull your wrench until you feel it get tight, and stop there.
Line the clamp so it bumps against the flange at the end of the header pipes. Again, rotate it so the bolt or hex-head is easy to put a wrench or hex-key on. Tighten it up. Like the hanger bolt, it needs to be snug, but don't overdo it. Tighten until it's snug, then stop.
Some of the kits will come with a new gasket that fits between the muffler and the header; some kits re-use the OEM gasket. It looks like a section of tube, and it should be obvious where it goes. It's silver, so if you aren't looking for it, you may miss it. Usually the gasket will stay inside the OEM pipe when it comes off, so read the instructions with your new pipe and see if they provide one. If not, make sure you get the OEM out of the factory pipe and onto the header end before you put the new pipe on.
hey! thanks so much for that, def helped and actually installed it tonight. 1 thing i DEF need addressed.. my OEM gasket has no way of fitting with the slip on. its literally the same diameter as the slip on pipe, so can't fit inside the pipe and won't go over. There was also no gasket included anywhere with my parts.. i can feel the exhaust leak.. did i get short handed on parts??
Did the Yoshimura not come with model-specific installation instructions that reference the use of either the stock gasket or a new one supplied by Yoshimura? I find it hard to believe that they expected the slip joint to be effective without a gasket.
If the sizing is such that a typical silicone-graphite gasket will not fit, you may need to purchase some high-temp RTV silicone. Once cured, it generally creates an effective gasket, impervious to exhaust heat.
Did the Yoshimura not come with model-specific installation instructions that reference the use of either the stock gasket or a new one supplied by Yoshimura? I find it hard to believe that they expected the slip joint to be effective without a gasket.
If the sizing is such that a typical silicone-graphite gasket will not fit, you may need to purchase some high-temp RTV silicone. Once cured, it generally creates an effective gasket, impervious to exhaust heat.
I tried to upload a picture of the parts list and instructions, but all my files are too big even with low resolution so I gave up, haha.. but anyways, the instructions/parts state I don't use OEM, but I still tried b/c there's no listed gasket anywhere to use. I'll also try contacting Revzilla (since i purchased from there), and Yoshimura this morning, see what they say.
If not, I'll use the silicone gasket route. Thanks for the input!
I somehow missed this thread. I would have shot over to give you moral support...I'm only mildly mechanically inclined, but I'm in the area and consider myself a specialist with Spaceman's step 4.
Grab a tube of red Permatex gasket-maker and put a thin coating of that on the joint. That was the recommended way to install the 2Bros cans on my DL1000. It worked fine.
(06-05-2014, 10:06 PM)EmptySea_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I somehow missed this thread. I would have shot over to give you moral support...I'm only mildly mechanically inclined, but I'm in the area and consider myself a specialist with Spaceman's step 4.
me too -- i'm only about 20min from Bartlett. Always happy to help mess with someone else's ride. And have a beer.
I'm def down for cruise and some brews anytime guys, just lmk!
. Also, I called yoshimura this morning and they said there's no gasket for this and one isn't needed since it's a compression clamp. They did say if I'm still having issues,I can send it to them, and if I wanted to use a sealant, they'd recommend copper seal pepper something. Also I can torque past recommended ratings if I still have issues.so I'll try that tonight.
(06-06-2014, 03:34 AM)jm0327_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I'm def down for cruise and some brews anytime guys, just lmk!
. Also, I called yoshimura this morning and they said there's no gasket for this and one isn't needed since it's a compression clamp. They did say if I'm still having issues,I can send it to them, and if I wanted to use a sealant, they'd recommend copper seal pepper something. Also I can torque past recommended ratings if I still have issues.so I'll try that tonight.
You can torque past recommended ratings? No, don't do that, it will mess up the clamp and/or deform your pipes. Just tighten it down nice and snug and you're good to go. I should have mentioned my TwoBros pipe has no gasket, and its fine without it. Unless you start having air-leak symptoms like after-fire on deceleration, you're done.
(06-06-2014, 09:25 PM)The Spaceman_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (06-06-2014, 03:34 AM)jm0327_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I'm def down for cruise and some brews anytime guys, just lmk!
. Also, I called yoshimura this morning and they said there's no gasket for this and one isn't needed since it's a compression clamp. They did say if I'm still having issues,I can send it to them, and if I wanted to use a sealant, they'd recommend copper seal pepper something. Also I can torque past recommended ratings if I still have issues.so I'll try that tonight.
You can torque past recommended ratings? No, don't do that, it will mess up the clamp and/or deform your pipes. Just tighten it down nice and snug and you're good to go. I should have mentioned my TwoBros pipe has no gasket, and its fine without it. Unless you start having air-leak symptoms like after-fire on deceleration, you're done.
You can torque past recommended ratings? No, don't do that, it will mess up the clamp and/or deform your pipes. Just tighten it down nice and snug and you're good to go. I should have mentioned my TwoBros pipe has no gasket, and its fine without it. Unless you start having air-leak symptoms like after-fire on deceleration, you're done.
Yeah, that's what Yoshimura told me to do. I did end up using permatax sealer, and I'm still letting it fully cure, but tightening it down nice and snug still had a noticeable exhaust leak that I wasn't happy about. I haven't rode it since I felt leak so I wouldn't know if i was symptomatic, but good to know I'm just being too cautious and people are running fine without. Thankss for the extra info!
Hate to revive an old thread but this one mentioned something that's come up on my bike too. '17 EX and I'm installing an Arrow slip on setup, there's no specific gasket either but like OP's Yoshimura exhaust, mine doesn't fit over the OEM honda exhaust gasket.
Any tips for removing the old gasket? I'm about to dremel through the thing since it's NOT coming off and I'm stabbing my hands on whatever is sharp in the vicinity. The service manual just suggests replacing (section 2-21 etc) but didn't mention how it's supposed to come on/off. Any tips would be appreciated, it's cramped down there so if someone's found a better way to get a stuck on gasket off it would be a big help! I see this post here:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....ler+Gasket also mentions it but there's no way my slip on, which I've verified has the correct parts number, would fit over the silvery gasket/sleeve thing as suggested. I can see CaptainChris' also wouldn't come loose, not sure how he got the slip-on over it!
(10-25-2024, 09:06 AM)iamheero_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Hate to revive an old thread but this one mentioned something that's come up on my bike too. '17 EX and I'm installing an Arrow slip on setup, there's no specific gasket either but like OP's Yoshimura exhaust, mine doesn't fit over the OEM honda exhaust gasket.
Any tips for removing the old gasket? I'm about to dremel through the thing since it's NOT coming off and I'm stabbing my hands on whatever is sharp in the vicinity. The service manual just suggests replacing (section 2-21 etc) but didn't mention how it's supposed to come on/off. Any tips would be appreciated, it's cramped down there so if someone's found a better way to get a stuck on gasket off it would be a big help! I see this post here: http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....ler+Gasket also mentions it but there's no way my slip on, which I've verified has the correct parts number, would fit over the silvery gasket/sleeve thing as suggested. I can see CaptainChris' also wouldn't come loose, not sure how he got the slip-on over it!
Update: I hit it with my purse (I used a hammer and flathead screwdriver to chip off the graphite and ripped off the gasket) and was successful in mounting the new slip-ons. We shall see re: exhaust leaks, getting the arrow slip-ons on was a pain, they didn't want to slide all the way down the old headers so the alignment with the rear footpeg hanger was difficult.