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Hi Chip, thanks for the kind words.

I posted a photo of the extended counter shaft (output shaft, where the sprocket connects). It's probably the part of the project that gets the most questions. The shaft had to be extended or lengthened to accommodate the wider swing arm. In most cases; the choice is to buy or fab an offset sprocket and make some sort of out board bearing support.

Since I scrimped on this previously; here's more details

Original shaft and another just like it was checked for material type ("spark tested"), and checked for hardness. Also did the sprocket. All of these were annealed. Annealing brings the metal back to its original state (or close to it), makes it much easier to machine and weld.

Here's the original shaft and 34mm of the other shaft. Drilled and threaded for keeping the two pieces together during welding. The bevel on each allows a deeper- stronger weld.
[Image: f590e1500e933905fb9b369c76c93599.jpg]

Made a tool for turning the sprocket by taking the remaining piece of shaft, welded a sleeve, trued it on the lathe, and narrowed the sprocket to fit the 525 size chain.
[Image: bd6b4fbc32f4bb655c5414c88d639296.jpg]

Here's the shaft (lower one) temporarily installed after heat treating to get the durameter back to 60.
[Image: f1efd421e287ecdcac71da922c3da278.jpg]
(04-24-2016, 09:24 PM)Razor_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Chip, thanks for the kind words.

I posted a photo of the extended counter shaft (output shaft, where the sprocket connects). It's probably the part of the project that gets the most questions. The shaft had to be extended or lengthened to accommodate the wider swing arm. In most cases; the choice is to buy or fab an offset sprocket and make some sort of out board bearing support.

Since I scrimped on this previously; here's more details

Original shaft and another just like it was checked for material type ("spark tested"), and checked for hardness. Also did the sprocket. All of these were annealed. Annealing brings the metal back to its original state (or close to it), makes it much easier to machine and weld.

Here's the original shaft and 34mm of the other shaft. Drilled and threaded for keeping the two pieces together during welding. The bevel on each allows a deeper- stronger weld.
[Image: f590e1500e933905fb9b369c76c93599.jpg]

Made a tool for turning the sprocket by taking the remaining piece of shaft, welded a sleeve, trued it on the lathe, and narrowed the sprocket to fit the 525 size chain.
[Image: bd6b4fbc32f4bb655c5414c88d639296.jpg]

Here's the shaft (lower one) temporarily installed after heat treating to get the durameter back to 60.
[Image: f1efd421e287ecdcac71da922c3da278.jpg]

Razor,

Dude you're killing me. You detail fabrications like the one above like it's as simple and obvious as making a pot of coffee. To just about everyone else here what you so casually describe would be as impossible for us to pull off as a successful moon landing. I'm staring at your whole build like the RCA dog and asking myself, "Who is this guy."

What do you do for a living and how did you acquire these skills? Unreal.

Chip
(04-24-2016, 09:24 PM)Razor_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Chip, thanks for the kind words.

I posted a photo of the extended counter shaft (output shaft, where the sprocket connects). It's probably the part of the project that gets the most questions. The shaft had to be extended or lengthened to accommodate the wider swing arm. In most cases; the choice is to buy or fab an offset sprocket and make some sort of out board bearing support.

Since I scrimped on this previously; here's more details

Original shaft and another just like it was checked for material type ("spark tested"), and checked for hardness. Also did the sprocket. All of these were annealed. Annealing brings the metal back to its original state (or close to it), makes it much easier to machine and weld.

Here's the original shaft and 34mm of the other shaft. Drilled and threaded for keeping the two pieces together during welding. The bevel on each allows a deeper- stronger weld.
[Image: f590e1500e933905fb9b369c76c93599.jpg]

Made a tool for turning the sprocket by taking the remaining piece of shaft, welded a sleeve, trued it on the lathe, and narrowed the sprocket to fit the 525 size chain.
[Image: bd6b4fbc32f4bb655c5414c88d639296.jpg]

Here's the shaft (lower one) temporarily installed after heat treating to get the durameter back to 60.
[Image: f1efd421e287ecdcac71da922c3da278.jpg]
Sounds like you have a rubber part. I think you meant Rockwell (as in hardness scale)?

Did you xray the welds as well? With torsion and fatigue loading on a location like that would make me feel better knowing the welds were near perfect.
What do you do for a living and how did you acquire these skills? Unreal.

Chip
[/quote]

Always had a taste for mechanical things. Loved to take stuff apart, and see what made them tick Smile Can remember when I was 8 or 9, took my bike apart, dad asked "what are doing?"... "just gonna paint it and lube the bearings". Throughout the years my parents were very supportive; even when I painted the car port walls black from the floor to 4ft high (thought it would hide the grease & oil). After I moved out; my mom said it took three coats of primer & paint to get back to white... sorry mom.
(04-24-2016, 11:02 PM)kennyw_imp Wrote: [ -> ]
(04-24-2016, 09:24 PM)Razor_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Chip, thanks for the kind words.

I posted a photo of the extended counter shaft (output shaft, where the sprocket connects). It's probably the part of the project that gets the most questions. The shaft had to be extended or lengthened to accommodate the wider swing arm. In most cases; the choice is to buy or fab an offset sprocket and make some sort of out board bearing support.

Since I scrimped on this previously; here's more details

Original shaft and another just like it was checked for material type ("spark tested"), and checked for hardness. Also did the sprocket. All of these were annealed. Annealing brings the metal back to its original state (or close to it), makes it much easier to machine and weld.

Here's the original shaft and 34mm of the other shaft. Drilled and threaded for keeping the two pieces together during welding. The bevel on each allows a deeper- stronger weld.
[Image: f590e1500e933905fb9b369c76c93599.jpg]

Made a tool for turning the sprocket by taking the remaining piece of shaft, welded a sleeve, trued it on the lathe, and narrowed the sprocket to fit the 525 size chain.
[Image: bd6b4fbc32f4bb655c5414c88d639296.jpg]

Here's the shaft (lower one) temporarily installed after heat treating to get the durameter back to 60.
[Image: f1efd421e287ecdcac71da922c3da278.jpg]
Sounds like you have a rubber part. I think you meant Rockwell (as in hardness scale)?

Did you xray the welds as well? With torsion and fatigue loading on a location like that would make me feel better knowing the welds were near perfect.
Sounds like you have a rubber part. I think you meant Rockwell (as in hardness scale)?

Did you xray the welds as well? With torsion and fatigue loading on a location like that would make me feel better knowing the welds were near perfect.
Hi kennyw, you're correct; it should read Rockwell. Place I used for heat treating did x-ray, said it was good to go. The hardest part for them was keeping the shaft to within specs (no more than .003" out of round).

Thanks for your interest and catching my error. Something tells me your're in the metallurgy business or have formal education, pretty cool!
Mechanical engineering background of 20 years tells me you don't want a rubber crankshaft. No other use for the word durometer that I know of.
Updates

Cleaned & lubed the advance unit, installed the points and wired them in.
[Image: 832bfe16b3a4f8e18825ad04500ec8e8.jpg]

The stock oil filter is a centrifugal type. Not a big fan, so did a little research and came up with this. Uses a stock Suzuki oil filter cartridge
[Image: b274d33912e171c8dd38440c015980bb.jpg]

Instructions called for drilling a hole in the side cover.
[Image: 96893feb36053bf692dcf34cca958f8d.jpg]

Also called to cut or machine the stock filter drum to 22mm
The section that's left is used as a spacer for the gears, washers & nut.
[Image: e8e758d3953f2f7d8348f04b32df1524.jpg]

Assembly installed
[Image: 8b3ec655a852f58fc1559a673600fafc.jpg]

Wasn't looking right, so off it came. Broke out the sandpaper and buffing wheel.
[Image: b8b4440b54015c84e77508fc715158e2.jpg]

Cleaned up the swingarm & shock assembly.
[Image: 97f5a70e88eb7313518890b19dc4a6fd.jpg]

Friend is stopping over tomorrow. He's got a cool Deutsch connector for the stator wires. More on this later.
Looking very good.
I'm astonished at every posting Razor. Beautiful craftsmanship.
Just amazing work. Thanks for sharing.
Razor,

With labor factored in you have a $50,000 CB-350!! The coolest danged thing. How close to Detroit are you? When my GT gets back from Europe it's going to Dearborn where I will pick it. Maybe I can stop by to see your CB350. Cheers.

Chip
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