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(08-24-2013, 10:51 AM)CIP57_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Just did my first oil change. I have been using Rotella T6 5-40 synthetic with a MO rating in my ST and XX and put it in the CB. Warming it up on the center stand after the change to fill the filter I noticed a knock in the lower end. Not a valve tick from the top. Taking it off the center stand onto the side stand it increased from the right side. Knock went away and went for a short ride 20mi. I noticed the recovery in the site glass was very slow. Put her on the center stand and ran it for about 10 minutes looking at the site glass. No oil in the window on level ground, turned off the motor and waited at least 30 seconds for oil to appear and then slowly inched up tho the full mark. The factory oil came out like water, this came out much thicker. This oil is much to heavy for this bike, either moving to slow through the oil cooler or returning from the top end.
Went to Dealer for Honda 10-30 synthetic & new filter. . Ran engine again on center stand even when cold you could see the oil level in the site glass bathing the lower end and when I turned the motor off return to the full mark was just about 10-15 seconds. Quite evident this bike requires a very thin motor oil.
Needless to say all bikes received oil changes today.
Please be careful and aware when using different oil then recommended.
I have read through the post in my thread. This is a HELP THREAD has nothing to do with what oil you should use or to promote same. I'm not a newbie, been around the block a few times and belong to a few forums. I only post things that have meat to them and may be helpful to others.
Thought I would weigh in with a meatless post! Ha! Just went out to the garage to admire and check mileage on that beautiful Honda CB1100. I'll have 1000 miles on it soon. Had one oil & filter change - used what the dealer had in stock to start with. I intend to switch to a full synthetic after the engine has broken-in fully. I always use recomended oil weights as I figure the manufacturer ought to know what works. Why take a chance with an expensive piece of machinery? That said, be it far from me to criticize anyone for experimenting with their own motorcycle!
I have a close friend who's been riding since the 1960's that uses automotive oils and occasionally changes the filters because he's cheap and unconvinced that there is enough difference in motorcycle oils to warrant the extra expense. He's also obsessive about gas mileage and buys the cheapest fuel he can find. Recently, his BMW 1150RT had idle problems, but I digress.
In 1999 I bought a Victory and while in a local auto parts shop the fellow behind the counter was able to cross reference a Hastings oil filter for the bike. I wonder who makes them for Honda? I'm not married to brands and do shop around for the best prices. When using synthetics I put more miles between oil changes as I believe dumping it too soon is just a waste.
Well, I guess I've rambled on and wasted enough of your time.
The Bee
Years ago I had extremely good luck with Golden Spectro but I also changed oil and filter every 2000 miles. I think that had as much to do with the excellent shape the motor was in than the oil I choose.
The Guzzi guys really like Rotella but the engine and tranny are separate with different oils so no clutch worries. After owning a Guzzi I think one could make a very good case to keep the engine and tranny separate. It would be easier to do on the inline fours if the motor was length wise like the Triumph Rocket or the Henderson Four but that makes for long bikes (which is fine by me; but I got long arms).
My biggest gripe about the oil change; the weather is conspiring to keep me off the darn bike so I can get the miles on to justify its' first oil change. It's enough to make you shake your cane against the sky.
One of the better oil threads I've ever read was over on ThumperTalk.com. Some guy went through a bunch of oils (and miles; the data was staggering) and sent the oil out to be analyzed. Turns out, on the XR650L, with that four valve head, without an oil cooler ANY oil was toast at around 500 miles. He installed an oil cooler. I will too.
But like anything else; if you don't know squawt; stick to the manual. The more you know the more you can experiment and still be safe. Me; I'm going to experiment with chain lube oil for now.
But a hearty thank you to the original poster regarding Rotella oil. Good to know and fills in wee bit of darkness.
(08-26-2013, 06:03 AM)Rboe_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Years ago I had extremely good luck with Golden Spectro but I also changed oil and filter every 2000 miles. I think that had as much to do with the excellent shape the motor was in than the oil I choose.
The Guzzi guys really like Rotella but the engine and tranny are separate with different oils so no clutch worries. After owning a Guzzi I think one could make a very good case to keep the engine and tranny separate. It would be easier to do on the inline fours if the motor was length wise like the Triumph Rocket or the Henderson Four but that makes for long bikes (which is fine by me; but I got long arms).
My biggest gripe about the oil change; the weather is conspiring to keep me off the darn bike so I can get the miles on to justify its' first oil change. It's enough to make you shake your cane against the sky.
One of the better oil threads I've ever read was over on ThumperTalk.com. Some guy went through a bunch of oils (and miles; the data was staggering) and sent the oil out to be analyzed. Turns out, on the XR650L, with that four valve head, without an oil cooler ANY oil was toast at around 500 miles. He installed an oil cooler. I will too.
But like anything else; if you don't know squawt; stick to the manual. The more you know the more you can experiment and still be safe. Me; I'm going to experiment with chain lube oil for now.
But a hearty thank you to the original poster regarding Rotella oil. Good to know and fills in wee bit of darkness.
Oil analysis is the key. I ran a series on my CB750 several years ago and learned some equally surprising things. Mainly that an air cooled motorcycle that operates in 100+ temps for about 6 months out of the year will cook/churn a multigrade dino oil to its base weight in less than 2K miles. The combination of high operating temps and shearing by the tranny gears is pretty brutal on the polymer chains that are responsible for keeping the oil thick at higher temps.
As a result, I cut my oil change intervals to 1500 mi. on the CB750. I went to a synthetic on the CB11, as it is supposed to hold its properties better under high temps. Of course, I won't know for sure until I get several samples analyzed.
If you really want to know what's going on inside your engine, a consistent series of oil analysis will tell you more than any post in a forum.
(08-26-2013, 08:26 AM)Flynrider_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (08-26-2013, 06:03 AM)Rboe_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Years ago I had extremely good luck with Golden Spectro but I also changed oil and filter every 2000 miles. I think that had as much to do with the excellent shape the motor was in than the oil I choose.
The Guzzi guys really like Rotella but the engine and tranny are separate with different oils so no clutch worries. After owning a Guzzi I think one could make a very good case to keep the engine and tranny separate. It would be easier to do on the inline fours if the motor was length wise like the Triumph Rocket or the Henderson Four but that makes for long bikes (which is fine by me; but I got long arms).
My biggest gripe about the oil change; the weather is conspiring to keep me off the darn bike so I can get the miles on to justify its' first oil change. It's enough to make you shake your cane against the sky.
One of the better oil threads I've ever read was over on ThumperTalk.com. Some guy went through a bunch of oils (and miles; the data was staggering) and sent the oil out to be analyzed. Turns out, on the XR650L, with that four valve head, without an oil cooler ANY oil was toast at around 500 miles. He installed an oil cooler. I will too.
But like anything else; if you don't know squawt; stick to the manual. The more you know the more you can experiment and still be safe. Me; I'm going to experiment with chain lube oil for now.
But a hearty thank you to the original poster regarding Rotella oil. Good to know and fills in wee bit of darkness.
Oil analysis is the key. I ran a series on my CB750 several years ago and learned some equally surprising things. Mainly that an air cooled motorcycle that operates in 100+ temps for about 6 months out of the year will cook/churn a multigrade dino oil to its base weight in less than 2K miles. The combination of high operating temps and shearing by the tranny gears is pretty brutal on the polymer chains that are responsible for keeping the oil thick at higher temps.
As a result, I cut my oil change intervals to 1500 mi. on the CB750. I went to a synthetic on the CB11, as it is supposed to hold its properties better under high temps. Of course, I won't know for sure until I get several samples analyzed.
If you really want to know what's going on inside your engine, a consistent series of oil analysis will tell you more than any post in a forum.
I would be very interested in your oil test results.
And I bet others would also.
Just an FYI, Stretch. Blackstone's motorcycle tests specifically include viscosity tests that do give you information about how the oil has held its properties.
While the tests I do on my airplane are more geared towards contaminants and residual metals, I do the tests on my motorcycle to find out how the oil held up under the particularly difficult conditions that I ride in (i.e. air cooled motorcycle in 100+ temps). Had it not been for the series I ran on the CB750, I would have had no idea that the oil's multigrade properties were deteriorating so quickly.
Just an FYI, Stretch. Blackstone's motorcycle tests specifically include viscosity tests that do give you information about how the oil has held its properties.
While the tests I do on my airplane are more geared towards contaminants and residual metals, I do the tests on my motorcycle to find out how the oil held up under the particularly difficult conditions that I ride in (i.e. air cooled motorcycle in 100+ temps). Had it not been for the series I ran on the CB750, I would have had no idea that the oil's multigrade properties were deteriorating so quickly.
I had a customer do several oil analysis of his 82 goldwing aspencade (this was back in 82). He got pretty upset with the unusually high copper content until he had them run the oil straight from the can - the oil came that way.
Then recently a guy over on ThumperTalk.com did several oil analysis' on his XR650L proving the value of an oil cooler with that motor. Unless you were willing to change the oil every 500 miles.
I went back to college so I have no idea whatever happened to mister aspencade guy and his bike. I suspect he tired of the bike long before it wore out. I'm still waiting to pull the trigger on my oil cooler but I have plans to do so. As soon as I can ride and wrench again. Some bikes it makes sense to analysis the oil, others, less so. That big ol' thumper from Honda just begged to be looked at. The gold wing just needed to be ridden.
That was the point I was trying to make. I would have never known that the heat and shear were turning my 10w-40 into a thin 20 weight in 2K miles without the analysis. A 20 weight oil at the temperatures I ride in will not provide a very thick protective film on the internal engine parts.
Since I used to routinely change the oil at 3K miles, I thought that was helpful info to know. YMMV.
I have always used mineral oil. Synthetic might have improved of late. Just seen my first oil change, genuine Honda oil at the shop well its mineral. The mechanic assures me that synthetic is no better, but if you wish to change wait for at least 3to4 oil changes.
(08-24-2013, 09:11 PM)meowguy_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Oil is simply beyond my ability to fully understand. Since Honda Motor Co. has people they pay specifically for this purpose and who know what oil to use in this bike, why would you not just use what they recommend and your dealer sells?
I couldn't agree more! Every time I see oil threads on forums I just shake my head. Why not just use what the manufacturer calls for and be done with it, especially with the bike still under warrany?
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