The CB1100 Community Forum

And Max and Razor are right above

When disconnecting .... negative first

When connecting ..... negative last

(04-29-2018, 08:19 PM)Cormanus_imp Wrote: [ -> ]

(04-29-2018, 07:28 PM)Razor_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Curious little sound?

Instead of getting into meters and measuring current draw and voltage drops; I’d suggest a simpler approach.

Disconnect the negative lead of the battery tender device (leave the positive on).
Turn on, do you still have the sound?
If No; it’s the battery tender device or negative connection*
If Yes; disconnect the positive lead of the battery tender device, and check again.

As max mentioned; make sure the bike cables are the first to contact the battery posts, then the tender leads (ie, tender lead goes through the battery bolt first, then the bike cable).

This is ambiguous to me. Do you mean that the bike cables should be next to the top of the battery or that the tender lead should be next to the top of the battery?

This is ambiguous to me. Do you mean that the bike cables should be next to the top of the battery or that the tender lead should be next to the top of the battery?
Good question Cormanus, the reason i mention no2 is because lordwasr said;

" this is how I connected the battery tender cables. So the "o ring" parts art on the bottom then the actual battery "+ , - " metal parts sit on top and then the screws . I accidently made a small spark too lol."

So i was not sure which order he had connected the tender cables and it is not immediately clear to the average rider that it is important to get the connections in the right order and clean the surfaces of the contacts ( not with sandpaper but a clean cloth, look under a microscope how you reduce the contact surface area contact and electro plating with sandpaper ).

It looks right and with most connections where not much current flows it is, but with upwards of 300 amps initially and dropping back to 130 amps when the engine is spinning this becomes an issue and is the reason the motor starter cables are so much thicker than the other wiring, there have even been problems on some model bikes where the designers got the cable size and connection point not correct and over time the owners end up replacing and re-connecting the starter cables.

Tucked away under the tool bucket and forgotten this may lead to a problem over time and strike far away from home.
We were just lucky lordwasr gave such a detailed description of the connection or we would have missed it.

At the same time it is nice to see he is having the prescribed amount of fun with his machine and tells us about it;
good on him.( Aussie speak )

.

Morning all, woooo y’all are awesome ! I was expecting everyone to be annoyed of my questions hahaha. But firstly, thanks for responding ! I’ve read all of your posts twice so I understand . I also read the manual before taking the battery out too but maybe got nervous and forgot something when I made the spark lol!

Taking out battery
1)Negative out
2)Positive out

Putting it back in
1)Positive In
2)Negative In

I woke up an hour early to check the thread and to redo the leds just Incase I put them in wrong, which I did . I’ll upload a pic shortly of what it looks like. I’ll also report in on the clicking sound .

This is what I’m understanding
Battery + Bike Cable + Tender Leads sit on top + screw

So pretty much the same position as when I popped the seat off originally . Now I’m just removing the screws placing the “pigtail leads” on top and screwing back in.

Thanks everyone!!!
Ok, I'm back so I tried taking the negative off and checked for sound and it's there. So i'm just going to assume it's normal.

I re did the pigtails and have attached some photos. I also forgot to ask, for the tool compartment basket is it supposed to be flush when I put it back in? I forgot to take a before photo to see how it was originally. When I placed it back, I just sort of screwed it in place and popped the button in. Looks kind of weird with a gap but I'm not sure if this is right lol.

how I wired it the first time

how I wired it this morning (revised)

how the bucket looks when screwed in ( has gap )

a better pic of the gap

thanks everyone .

It looks to me like it is forced into position so you could get the fasteners installed. Hard to tell, but it may be hung up on the cables on the positive fastener. Pull the tool holder back out and see what you have. May have to move some terminals around or maybe a cable is in the way.

Well if it is a 2014, it sounds the same as mine does, part of what you hear is the fuel pump pressurizing the system, and the other is the movement of the throttle settings to the choke I believe. See if it is still there when its hot, mine only makes it when cold. But I could be wrong (Always have to qualify statements) LoL

There's no choke on the '14's (or on any others).

Thats right, no choke. Its all done with mirrors. Or injector dwell time and the IACV. Yeah, that one

CB does not have fly by wire throttle, therefore you cannot hear throttle movement at all...most likely relays and other electrically driven devices/solenoids are heard.

pb

Look, you guys, this is no choking matter!

Ha Ha!

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