The CB1100 Community Forum

(07-18-2023, 12:19 AM)m in sc_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Not being familiar w the abs models i have to ask.. doesn't this sensor also send a signal to the speedometer? if thats the case, then i would imagine the speedometer would be erroring out as well. i don't see another rear sensor on the bike looking at abs model fiche diagrams.

This is an excellent point. If the speedometer is reading properly, the sensor would not be at fault. There is no rear ABS sensor per se, only the rear wheel's speedometer sensor which is used to compare with the front ABS sensor.

(07-18-2023, 08:53 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Gecko,

I see in the first post that you have a service manual. I would suggest you look at section 15. That is the ABS section and tells you how to retrieve ABS fault codes from the ABS modulator’s ECU.

You do it by shorting 2 pins on the ABS service check connector and the ABS light will flash the code. There should be a code as the light has been coming on. Follow the procedure RETRIEVAL/ERASURE OF PROBLEM CODE. There is a picture of the connector with a jumper wire installed. I can’t tell you exactly where the connector is as I do not have ABS.

I would start here instead of just guessing and poking around. Just my $0.02.

^^+1^^ and my $0.01

This looks a lot like perpetual motion to me. No mean achievement.

What a beautiful smiley, peterbaron. And yes, that is exactly how I feel when I read the Honda manual.
I realize I have to be more specific, otherwise I am getting branded as a "poking around" nerd without any technical skill. That would be a shame for a proud technician like me. So what am I doing ?
a) I ride anyway, regardless of what the ABS light says or blinks (blink), lived without ABS for 20 odd years,
b) I observe that the light comes on more and more frequently, BUT it also now goes off after a while. It does not come on and off and on ... etc in erratic ways. It's on when I start rolling (as it should), goes off when I reach 4mph (as it should) and then, after a few minutes it comes on, stays on for some turns and miles and then it comes on and stays on for a while. Then it goes off. I'd say, that is really strange.
c) unless the ABS controller sort of integrates over many errors and only changes the light (on or off) after many events (like your dashboard's temperature gauge), ... which I doubt ... what I describe under b) is really strange. ABS reacts on fast signals, when something is odd (or dangerous) it turns itself off and the light on. My theory.

So what did I do, and where do I get stuck:
d) I checked the sensors for cleanliness, position, etc. as described before. And I am still working on that part, step by step.
e) I checked connectors upstream from the sensors as much as possible (2017 bike, 2016 manual), but this came to a stop at the point where the tank needs to be removed (a job for winter !).
f) I read the 2016 manual, every relevant section, but it is now clear that I have to order the newer version. For i) it's a pain to go forth and back in the PDF version (the PDF readers page numbers are 1,2,3,... it cannot find page numbers like 15-40), but also because the manual version I have shows connectors in places where there are no connectors on my bike. That is the main reason I cannot check (yet) power and grounding.

@ m_in_sc's question: the electric schematics show that the sensor signals go to the combination meter, but whether the speed meter might go crazy if any of the wheel sensors is at fault, I cannot tell.
@ Lord popgun's suggestion of reading out the fault code I have not followed up any further. Why ? This section in the manual (page 15-16) lists a number of conditions for which the ABS light might start to "blink", and what to do about it. My ABS light does not blink. At this point the manual gets really fuzzy to read. I cannot explain it right here. But if you put it all together and read it 3 times (detection A vs. detection B, and all the rest) I do mainly see conditions which should not be self-healing. And you have to remember that the pre-start self-diagnosis does work without error every time I start riding.

My thinking at this point is this: wait for new manual, and see if it solves some of the problems described above. Wait for the light to be on permanently or for winter, whatever comes first. Try trouble shooting again.

For whatever the root cause, it sounds like the controller is detecting sensor signal timing out-of-sync, and hence, throws the ABS indicator.

Since the behaviour sounds random in behaviour, I hazard to guess it is associated with the sensor and/or feed (including grounding) back to the controller. You probably spent a lot of time probing this already, but maybe consider another go at it and maybe a second set of eyes on it as you do it. We often get too close to a problem and cannot find the cause.

<-- lol, you like?

I introduced that to the Forum, and it didn't take working on the CB1100 for me to feel that way - lol.

But anyway, I went back into the garage and put the jumper into the DCT connector, followed the procedure and looked for ABS fault codes blinking. Nothing, light stays on and no errors indicated. Carefully checked the procedure and the way the jumper was connected. My ABS system has no faults - in line with the facts explained above.

What the heck, such a nice day .... I am off for a ride

Keep in mind the connector for the ABS test is not the same one for engine ECU faults.

(07-19-2023, 12:27 AM)m in sc_imp Wrote: [ -> ]IMHO, i would bet there is a tiny amount of air in the modulator throwing a 'soft' code.

If it were my bike, thats where i would focus my attention on to repair it.

Could you explain "soft code" and why you think a bubble could be the culprit ?

(07-18-2023, 11:18 PM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Keep in mind the connector for the ABS test is not the same one for engine ECU faults.

I used the connector near the location shown in the picture on page 15-sth, it had a cap (not a dummy connector), and 4 leads of which one brown/white and one green. Are you saying I missed sth and there could be another connector nearby with these features ?

No, I think you got the right one. I'll have to check when I get home and look at the book.

(07-19-2023, 01:26 AM)m in sc_imp Wrote: [ -> ]soft code is one that will appear and then go out.

if the abs module is seeing a brief period of low pressure at the sensor ( i assume it has one internally) by the trapped air being compressed, it would/could throw a code.

1st rule of diagnostics is: whats the last thing you touched? in this case, bleeding the system.

+1

Go for a ride, trigger the ABS light to come on, stop, kill the ignition by the RED stop button, not the ignition key/switch and try to retrieve your ABS dtc… any??
May have to get your proper connector exposed for easy and immediate access prior riding/testing and bridge pin ready