(07-10-2023, 09:33 PM)m in sc_imp Wrote: [ -> ]with an inside caliper. measure w this (or similar), then measure the tips of the caliper with your hand held digital caliper, or micrometer. Id bet harbor freight has these. Ive had mine forever from way back. make sure you get a small pair, obviously.
Thanks for your input, Mike in South Carolina (??)
The problem is access to the sensors and casing, a gauge like this cannot get where it needs to go. I am sure there is a way to measure, similar to what you show, but I don't know of any in the sub millimeter range.
Two simple measurements with defined precision can still add up to a measurement with more uncertainty, it's called the error chain. With both measurements already demanding a precision of 0.05" or better, and the end of what I called the tube not accessible, this is still a tough measurement.
BTW me too I doubt, that it is the sensor position, just trying to eliminate what I can before wasting money on it.
Thanks
You were right, m in sc, I was wrong. Thanks for motivating me .... sort of.
Now I have a reasonable good measurement of the REAL distance from the sensor head to the pulser disk.
The front is within limits, but the rear is out of spec, too large. And it is not adjustable (unless there was a way to move the pulser disk away from the brake caliper).
I have to think about that and ... whether it is worth the effort. My rear tire was changed 18 months ago, and the problem did NOT start back then.
Next is probably connectors, fit - corrosion - etc. - if I could only locate them without much more than taking the side panels off.
0.015” too far away from the pulser disk
compared to the gap allowed
Gecho, If you follow the rear wheel sensor cable it is easy to access where it connects to the harness. I forget exactly, but it is on the right side. Remove the side cover and air filter cover and the connectors are in a boot with other connectors by the frame downtube. Easy to find. I just followed the cable from the sensor. Easy.
If we wanted to know if the sensor is too far away from the ring we space it out a bit more just to see if the sensor is working on the limit of it's operating range.
Spec is one thing but the actual operating range is another.
Something else to check is the power supply side; the 30A fuse, the 2 pole brown/green power connector and the ground lug on the green cable.
If the abs operates somewhere along the ride and has poor ground or supply connection with the current drain of the abs pump resulting in a voltage drop at the abs modulator the abs unit may set a " generic " fault code to attract your attention.
Normally the abs module uses about 0.3 Amps if that but the pump draws 15 Amps or so.
You're looking for loose or not properly seating contacts, pinched wires, corrosion or poor wire contacts on the pin crimps.
I'm curious how much gap there is between the pulser ring and the end of the "tube" or "raised boss", since the sensor is recessed in the tube. Other Honda speed sensors appear to stick beyond the tube, but it could still operate if not too deeply recessed.
Thanks guys, I’ll better get to work ...
Well, so much about a shortcut. I contacted healtech to see if their OBD reader for the Cb1100 would be able to read out ABS codes. No, they say, it can only read/reset FI and engine codes.
Gecko,
I see in the first post that you have a service manual. I would suggest you look at section 15. That is the ABS section and tells you how to retrieve ABS fault codes from the ABS modulator’s ECU.
You do it by shorting 2 pins on the ABS service check connector and the ABS light will flash the code. There should be a code as the light has been coming on. Follow the procedure RETRIEVAL/ERASURE OF PROBLEM CODE. There is a picture of the connector with a jumper wire installed. I can’t tell you exactly where the connector is as I do not have ABS.
I would start here instead of just guessing and poking around. Just my $0.02.