(08-11-2014, 06:40 AM)Ack-CB11_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I hate to bring up oil, but..........
going from 10w40 to 10w30 on mine made a big increase in vibes. Rode 4 months from new w/10w40, never a tingle in my hands. Temps dropped to around 50 in the fall. Swithed to 10w30 for winter, hands numb after 15-20 minutes.
Might be worth a try?
The smoothest I found was Amsoil 10w40
I switched to Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 last change and my bike is smoother running now and the notchy shifting I was experiencing going into 5th gear is gone. I'm not going back to the 10W-30.
Well, down the rabbit hole...... On the subject of oil, my past bikes, as far back as I remember, had temperature ranges in the owners manual that gave at least a couple of options on oil weights. Usually 10-30 for milder climates or riding conditions, and, say, a 10-40 for higher temperature zones or more severe riding conditions. I don't see anything like that in my owners manual? Did I miss something? I hate to arbitrarily switch weights "just because" if the manual doesn't refer to it. (Just call me overly cautious!)
Me 2.
My manual only gives me one option on page 128 and it is very specific, very much so: 10w-30, JASO T 903 standard MA, Pro HONDA four stroke oil or an equivalent matching the 10w-30 SAE weight, JASCO T 903 standard, API oil, all of which need to be API service classification SG or higher EXCEPT oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving.
I looked up JASCO T 903. It's specific to motorcycles. Hint, don't pick up any old 10w-30...
Quote:Modern motorcycles usually have the same oil lubricating the engine and the wet clutch. For this purpose most of the time the regular friction modified engine oils are not good enough. To make sure that the right oil is used motorcycle manufacturers usually require the oil to meet one of the JASO standards explained below.
The motor oils that meet the JASO T 903:2006 standard can be classified into four grades: JASO MA, JASO MA1, JASO MA2 and JASO MB. The classification is based on the results of the JASO T 904:2006 clutch system friction test.
So, I'm not screwing around with either my Doctor's very specfic prescriptions nor Honda's.
The oil specification you are referring to is in the factory service manual. It clearly states that 10W-40 is acceptable in warmer climes. Was not trying to start an oil thread (Lord help us), just stating that my bike runs smother on the heavier grade. Maybe useful info for those experiencing excessive vibration. The owners manual makes no mention of any other grade than 10W-30. Shell Rotella is a diesel grade oil that meets or exceeds all specs for Honda.
My owners manual shows a linear arrow across a temperature scale.
It shows -----10W-30--------10W-40->
There is no break or any area delineated for the 30/40 crossover, just the 40 weight shown at the end of the scale, near where the temp is 110F.
I take it to mean that during the height of the summer if your ambient temps can be over 90 degF 10W-40 is recommended, all other times 10W-30 is recommended. Since I just bought the bike and this summer has been cooler than normal, I changed the oil and used 10W-30. If we get a week long last hurrah heat wave, am I going to go out change the oil to 10W-40 for a week or two? Nope.
(08-17-2014, 04:24 AM)Short Timer_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Well, down the rabbit hole...... On the subject of oil, my past bikes, as far back as I remember, had temperature ranges in the owners manual that gave at least a couple of options on oil weights. Usually 10-30 for milder climates or riding conditions, and, say, a 10-40 for higher temperature zones or more severe riding conditions. I don't see anything like that in my owners manual? Did I miss something? I hate to arbitrarily switch weights "just because" if the manual doesn't refer to it. (Just call me overly cautious!)
(08-17-2014, 07:00 AM)ClassicVW_imp Wrote: [ -> ]My owners manual shows a linear arrow across a temperature scale.
It shows -----10W-30--------10W-40->
There is no break or any area delineated for the 30/40 crossover, just the 40 weight shown at the end of the scale, near where the temp is 110F.
I take it to mean that during the height of the summer if your ambient temps can be over 90 degF 10W-40 is recommended, all other times 10W-30 is recommended. Since I just bought the bike and this summer has been cooler than normal, I changed the oil and used 10W-30. If we get a week long last hurrah heat wave, am I going to go out change the oil to 10W-40 for a week or two? Nope.
Thanks. What page in the 2014 U.S. owner's manual? My manual only has 3 references to oil and all of them say the same thing, 10w-30 and no other option. No interpretation of weather limits are offered in my manual. Probably a good thing since you must follow the manual to keep the warranty in force. Perhaps there has been an update? Perhaps the 2014 manual IS the update.
I have a 2013 and I'm using the manual I found online. It's on page #87
(08-17-2014, 08:50 AM)ClassicVW_imp Wrote: [ -> ]I have a 2013 and I'm using the manual I found online. It's on page #87
Seems it's been updated. The current manual has nothing like that. Word.
(08-17-2014, 06:18 AM)redbirds_imp Wrote: [ -> ]The oil specification you are referring to is in the factory service manual. It clearly states that 10W-40 is acceptable in warmer climes. Was not trying to start an oil thread (Lord help us), just stating that my bike runs smother on the heavier grade. Maybe useful info for those experiencing excessive vibration. The owners manual makes no mention of any other grade than 10W-30. Shell Rotella is a diesel grade oil that meets or exceeds all specs for Honda.
Forgive me brother, I think treating excessive vibration with heavier oil outside of the current owners manual specification is a bit like treating a gall stone with whole milk rather than low fat instead of taking yourself to the doctor or the bike in for service.
Dude, get rid of the CB. You've done the ultimate taste test, and owned two fantastic standard machines that have all the power you'll ever need on the street, and you've found the one with the engine character that speaks to you. I've ridden Meriden Triumphs since a '99 Thunderbird, including the spoked and mag wheeled Bonnies. Very cool, very British character -- and very different from the Swiss watch CB engine. I like the CB more, because my first road bike (and a lot of good memories) were from a '79 CB650, and I like the inline 4 buzz. Buying bikes is emotional, it's not a science. The CB to many is an objectively better bike than the Bonnie -- but so is a CB1000R to all our bikes. We got the CB because of something inexplicable.
(08-17-2014, 10:08 AM)Siggy Javotnik_imp Wrote: [ -> ]Dude, get rid of the CB. You've done the ultimate taste test, and owned two fantastic standard machines that have all the power you'll ever need on the street, and you've found the one with the engine character that speaks to you. I've ridden Meriden Triumphs since a '99 Thunderbird, including the spoked and mag wheeled Bonnies. Very cool, very British character -- and very different from the Swiss watch CB engine. I like the CB more, because my first road bike (and a lot of good memories) were from a '79 CB650, and I like the inline 4 buzz. Buying bikes is emotional, it's not a science. The CB to many is an objectively better bike than the Bonnie -- but so is a CB1000R to all our bikes. We got the CB because of something inexplicable.
You know that's right.