10-13-2013, 11:24 PM
The SuperSprox hybrid (aluminum/steel) sprocket arrived early. Here are some photos of it installed. Obviously with only 3k miles on the CB I didn't replace the OEM for wear; frankly I did it because I think the SuperSprox part really adds to the bike's looks.
A few tips for installation:
You don't have to remove the caliper to remove the rear wheel, but it helps to put a big zip-tie around the hydraulic line receiver and the rear shock to hold it in place. If you place the tie right, the caliper won't move at all. Don't forget to spread the pads back open to make reinstalling the wheel easier.
It's really easy to ding the wheel on the caliper when removing it. It's a very tight fit; take your time or draft an assistant to help if you can find one.
The spacers on both sides of the wheel will probably fall out when you remove the wheel. Some grease on them will help hold them in place when you replace the wheel.
Grease the axle shaft! The grease isn't there to make the wheel turn easier; the bearings do that job. BUT, axles are notorious for galling and binding on the spacers if they get dry. I spent a long, hot summer afternoon in the garage beating the axle out of my VStrom because I'd failed to keep it lubed.
As I mentioned above, removing the rear wheel is a very tight fit. I found draining the air from the tire made it just a bit easier to get out.
The sprocket carrier should not drop out of the wheel. If it does, it means the rubber "biscuits" that make the drive-shock control are blown. A new set is cheap (around $35) and will make a big difference in the smoothness of the ride. Mine were fine at 3k, but I'll probably replace them with the rear tire.
A few tips for installation:
You don't have to remove the caliper to remove the rear wheel, but it helps to put a big zip-tie around the hydraulic line receiver and the rear shock to hold it in place. If you place the tie right, the caliper won't move at all. Don't forget to spread the pads back open to make reinstalling the wheel easier.
It's really easy to ding the wheel on the caliper when removing it. It's a very tight fit; take your time or draft an assistant to help if you can find one.
The spacers on both sides of the wheel will probably fall out when you remove the wheel. Some grease on them will help hold them in place when you replace the wheel.
Grease the axle shaft! The grease isn't there to make the wheel turn easier; the bearings do that job. BUT, axles are notorious for galling and binding on the spacers if they get dry. I spent a long, hot summer afternoon in the garage beating the axle out of my VStrom because I'd failed to keep it lubed.
As I mentioned above, removing the rear wheel is a very tight fit. I found draining the air from the tire made it just a bit easier to get out.
The sprocket carrier should not drop out of the wheel. If it does, it means the rubber "biscuits" that make the drive-shock control are blown. A new set is cheap (around $35) and will make a big difference in the smoothness of the ride. Mine were fine at 3k, but I'll probably replace them with the rear tire.
