Aftermarket turn signals - Need some help.

CBville_imp

First service completed
Thread starter
Hey All,

Has anyone installed aftermarket turn signals onto their US market CB11 yet? I received my POSH units in today and they are quite amazing in build quality. However, one thing I noticed is that they lack any kind of rubber bushing such as the original units. Upon further research, it appears the Japanese market had different turn signal bases than the US market. These Posh signals would indeed be direct replacements for Japanese market bikes.

What I'm wondering is how you guys/gals are mounting aftermarket signals without any sort of rubber base to fill the big gap left by the OEM signals. Looking for some help and suggestions. I believe there are a few members who've already put on aftermarket units.

Thanks!
Hung
 
Thread starter
So tonight I was able to take a closer look into the signals and it doesn't look great. The rears could work with an additional large washer, but they won't be mounted with any rubber between the signal and base like the factory. Looking at Japanese model CB1100s, their factory signals definitely had a separate removable rubber base compared to the integrated rubber base on our signals.

The fronts are a whole different challenge unless you plan to make a permanent modification to the stock mount. Even then, the signals won't sit very flush and will actually look out of place. Hopefully someone with more experience or mechanically inclined can chime in. I'd really like to be able to run these new signals.



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I saw VFRPaul said he needed to do a "slight mount rethread" for the front, and a "wire harness adapter" for the back.

1. How do you go about rethreading something?
2. What is the wire harness adapter for and how do you install it?
3. Are those lights similar in size to the POSH lights?
4. Do you need a double filament light for the front for running lights and turn signals?
 
I believe the wire harness adapter is a cable extender with plugs on both ends. One end to the bike harness and the other to the light. It is shown somewhere, either on webike or on the site that VFRpaul bought his lights from.

Slight rethread? Well, he maybe drilled the hole some to a larger diameter, or if it is a threaded hole, ran a tap through it. I have a tap and die set, but I also have a rethreader set which is used to clean up threaded holes without cutting new threads.

Maybe a machinist on here can speak more to that.
 
Ok cool. I don't want to actually cut anything on my bike either. Trying to keep it where I can put all my stock items right back on if I ever wanted to.
 
Thread starter
With the Posh kits, you do not need to rewire anything as they include the factory harness connectors for the rears. The fronts are Male/Female connectors and they plug right up. Unfortunately, the mounting bases are completely different. The fronts can't be drilled out larger as the factory uses a small 6mm bolt and the Posh units use a 10mm bolt. Opening up the hole to accommodate the larger size will tear through the bracket leaving a gaping hole. Leaving an unfinished looking product and probably not that secure either.

Right now I think the only way to get them mounted properly is to make some sort of custom bracket in order to preserve the factory base. Any other ideas or suggestions, please share them!
 
Thread starter
Hey Mike, not sure how I missed your earlier post entirely. Thanks for providing that information. Looks like we'll have to make custom brackets until someone develops CB1100 specific turn signal adapters.
 
Thread starter
Last night I was able to purchase some larger washers and mount the rear signals. However, I ran into another issue with the rear signals now. The factory honda luggage rack will not work for USA CB1100s running these Posh signals because of clearance issues. Without a spacer/base mount to push the rear signals further out, it hits the rear mount of the luggage rack.

It probably needs to be pushed out atleast 5-10mm to clear it. I was originally planning to install a Givi top box with back rest for the wife. I really liked the Honda rack because it makes a great grab rail as a bonus. Now my options are:

1. Find a nice spacer about 1cm thick to use as a base for the signals. Keep the Honda rack and install the topbox with backrest.

2. Find another rack: Hurricane or Kajima (not in love with either as they don't provide a great grab rail and max load is only 3kg, but looks like both will clear the signals).

3. Ditch the whole top box idea. Purchase new grab rails and buy a Corbin seat with back rest. This option will cost the most and I lose the luggage function. Are there any universal adjustable back rests available that mount up to grab rails? I would only go the Corbin route because of the back rest option.
 
I wonder if an adapter like this would work for the front mounts?
McMaster-Carr

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Screw attach the smaller 6mm end through the stock mounting holes, screw the aftermarket indicator light into the 8mm end?

Aloha,
Huladog
 
Apparently the hex head screw that holds the front turn signal to the mounting bracket is a 6mm diameter from what others have described when they did the tear down.

Looking at the pics in this message thread I can see that mounting hole and others have opened up that hole to take the more common 8mm mounting bolt that most aftermarket turn signals seem to come with.

I was checking generic turn signals on eBay and most came with 8mm bolts, have found some with 7mm but only found one seller who had 6mm bolts but those were LED turn signals.

From an online OEM parts catalog they show that front turn signal mounting screw as:

BOLT, SOCKET (6X10)
96600-06010-00
$2.95

Aloha,
Huladog
 
Thread starter
Last night I decided to drill the factory opening to accept the larger turn signals. I went to home depot to purchase some fender washers and rubber gaskets. They are very tight/stable and look pretty finished to me. You could still go back to the factory signals but you would need to run a large washer behind the 6mm bolt.

Also, I have some Japanese Honda rubber bushings coming in for the rear signals to make them look more factory and clean. I've decided to go with the Daytona Multi-wing carrier since the OEM rack will no longer work. I really wanted to keep the factory Honda rack because it's the only one rated for 8kg and I plan to run a topbox. This Daytona is rated at 5kg and was the highest aftermarket one I could find that doubled as a grab rail: DAYTONA : Multi-Wing Carrier [77472]

If anyone is interested in a brand new Honda Rack, I will have it listed in the classifieds. All I did was try to mount it on by bolting up the 2 fronts before I realized the rears would not clear. Immediately took it off so it's never been used and looks 100% brand new.

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CBville_imp said:
Last night I decided to drill the factory opening to accept the larger turn signals. I went to home depot to purchase some fender washers and rubber gaskets. They are very tight/stable and look pretty finished to me. You could still go back to the factory signals but you would need to run a large washer behind the 6mm bolt.

Also, I have some Japanese Honda rubber bushings coming in for the rear signals to make them look more factory and clean. I've decided to go with the Daytona Multi-wing carrier since the OEM rack will no longer work. I really wanted to keep the factory Honda rack because it's the only one rated for 8kg and I plan to run a topbox. This Daytona is rated at 5kg and was the highest aftermarket one I could find that doubled as a grab rail: DAYTONA : Multi-Wing Carrier [77472]

If anyone is interested in a brand new Honda Rack, I will have it listed in the classifieds. All I did was try to mount it on by bolting up the 2 fronts before I realized the rears would not clear. Immediately took it off so it's never been used and looks 100% brand new.

96b94ccfba6dd52601abfb6b3c802bec.jpg
looks clean. I am also about to attempt this install. pics to come
 
I have found the Kuryakyn Silver Bullets to be very nice additions to several of the bikes I've had and they have a multitude of mounting solutions including hollow bolts... usually, for the front I would use a p-clamp mounted on the front fork tubes...

http://www.jpcycles.com/kuryakyn/mounting-hardware
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/330-515

The lights can be had with either LED or halogen. They are not cheap, but they last forever and look great.

I love these customizing threads...
 
I was wondering if anyone could do me a favor and measure the diameter of the circular space left if you remove the rear turn signals. I'm thinking about moving them to a different spot, but trying to think what I could put in it's place. Thanks!
 
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