Hello from Florida - may need your help ....

HondaLou

HondaLou

First service completed
Thread starter
Looking forward to getting help from this group as I just bought a 2014 CB1100 DLX and it has a few issues.  With only 7,000 miles it has a yellow engine light on; the Green N display is always on regardless of gear selected and a red light on the right.  Not sure what that is for - maybe oil?  It also leaking fork gaskets.  
I have been working on several 1970s CB750s, but this is my first "modern" bike.  It runs well, just those issues i mentions above.  

HondaLou
 

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Welcome to the forum, HondaLou and congratulations on the DLX. The 'old' forum (Honda CB1100 Forum - For fans of Honda's CB1100) is not supported and therefore unreliable. If you get an error message, try later as it goes on and off-line. It's also likely the threads peterbaron has referred to transferred to this forum, although pictures may no longer display.

Try search for leaking fork seals. There was once a thread with a simple fix that you can try as a starter.

The CB1100 Community Forum
 
Thread starter
peterbaron said:
Thank you Peter.  The first 2 links come up as error.  But the Youtube link shows me how to reset oe clear the codes. 



Welcome to the forum, nice DLX ride!

This could be helpful and very similar, old forum = if accassible = be patient,  post #8 by pekingduck .... and more:

Gear shift indicator stuck on 4

Need the cluster pic when idling.. to addres the issues or DTC's

To check your DTCs

2014 CB1100 with only 5 gears


https://imgur.com/lsoU2Tk
    << this is Max diagram <<

See if you can find somthing here as well:

The CB1100 Community Forum
Click to expand...
 
Welcome to the Forum. Peterbaron and pekingduck are two of our best and brightest mechanics. I am sure their posts will prove useful. David
 
Hello and welcome HondaLou.  I was away for a while and just got a chance to check my manual. The only red light on the right side I can think of is the oil pressure warning light that is in the tachometer face.  It should be an oil can shape.  When the engine starts, oil pressure will turn the red light off, but don't be alarmed (yet).

The green neutral light is independent of the gear position indicator, so likely the problem is the neutral switch.  Both oil pressure switch and neutral switch are underneath the engine, and both have a single wire - light green for the neutral light and dark blue with a red stripe for oil pressure.

AND both wires are share a 2 pin connector.  As they leave their respective sensors, the 2 separate wires are covered with a black sheathing, and combined into a subharness to the 2-pin connector (black).  This routes along the lower side of the clutch cover, and plug into the main harness under the right side panel.  There are 2 metal wire clamps along the bottom of the clutch cover that may have pinched them.

It is likely that the wires were pinched to ground, which would cause both problems simultaneously.  You can unplug the connector, and neither light should go on.  If you unplug the connector and unplug both sensors, there should be no continuity to ground.  If there is, it's a sure sign the harness is pinched.
 

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Thread starter
pekingduck said:
Hello and welcome HondaLou.  I was away for a while and just got a chance to check my manual. The only red light on the right side I can think of is the oil pressure warning light that is in the tachometer face.  It should be an oil can shape.  When the engine starts, oil pressure will turn the red light off, but don't be alarmed (yet).

The green neutral light is independent of the gear position indicator, so likely the problem is the neutral switch.  Both oil pressure switch and neutral switch are underneath the engine, and both have a single wire - light green for the neutral light and dark blue with a red stripe for oil pressure.

AND both wires are share a 2 pin connector.  As they leave their respective sensors, the 2 separate wires are covered with a black sheathing, and combined into a subharness to the 2-pin connector (black).  This routes along the lower side of the clutch cover, and plug into the main harness under the right side panel.  There are 2 metal wire clamps along the bottom of the clutch cover that may have pinched them.

It is likely that the wires were pinched to ground, which would cause both problems simultaneously.  You can unplug the connector, and neither light should go on.  If you unplug the connector and unplug both sensors, there should be no continuity to ground.  If there is, it's a sure sign the harness is pinched.
Click to expand...

Super Helpful PekingDuck!  Im thinking this may fix the N light from always staying on.  The "other" red light that is staying on is right of the N light display.  
It looks like a temp logo.  Comes on and stays on as soon as key turned to start.  Maybe related to the DTC code I am getting in the orange display?  DTC blinks 7 times.  
See photo below
 

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Thread starter
Lord Popgun said:
Oil temp
Click to expand...

Yea, I figured that is what is was - thank you.  Strange that is goes on when bike it cold and never goes off.  Is there a way to reset this light?
 
Yeah, let the oil cool off. Sorry, couldn’t resist :)

It should come on with ignition on and go off when you start the engine. OK, mistake here—Light on with ignition on, then should go off

Also this is controlled by the ECM and sent EOT light comes on when the meters receive the info to do so via the bi-directional serial data line.

After 2013 models have the serial data line. To the ECM is Rear wheel speed sensor data, and to the meters is High oil temp indicator signal, Engine speed signal, and Fuel pulse signal.

Quick look at the manual yesterday said to check the temp sender. I can look for details later.

It may be related to one of your other problems. I’ll have to look at the book and the wiring diagram.

Do you have a service manual? You need one.

I am sending you a PM
 
Thread starter
Lord Popgun said:
Yeah, let the oil cool off.  Sorry, couldn’t resist :)

It should come on with ignition on and go off when you start the engine.  OK, mistake here—Light on with ignition on, then should go off

Also this is controlled by the ECM and sent EOT light comes on when the meters receive the info to do so via the bi-directional serial data line.

After 2013 models have the serial data line.  To the ECM is Rear wheel speed sensor data, and to the meters is High oil temp indicator signal, Engine speed signal, and Fuel pulse signal.

Quick look at the manual yesterday said to check the temp sender.  I can look for details later.

It may be related to one of your other problems.  I’ll have to look at the book and the wiring diagram.

Do you have a service manual?  You need one.

I am sending you a PM
Click to expand...

Thank you.  Yes, I just picked up the 600 page service manual.  Thank you for guiding me through the electronics.  My 71 CB750 is much more simple and mechanical.  
Lou
 
Lou sent me some info by PM. I am posting it here in hopes someone (PB, tev or someone) can help until I can look over this some more.

1) Green N (Neutral light) stays one regardless of riding gear. 
2) Orange Check Engine (DTC light) flashes 7 times continuously.  While riding, etc. 
3) High temp oil light comes on when engine is cold and stays on regardless of hot or cold engine. 
4) Oil pressure light flashes for a moment when I turn on the ignition but goes off even when the motor has not started. 
5) Left turn signal in display meter never flashes green - even though the signals work fine. 
6) Fuel gauge display always shows full - even when empty 
7) Left button on the meter does not work - hoping I can open the meters and determine if it is a contact issue. 
8) 3 of the four pipes are about 180 F after riding for a while.  Pipe number 1 is over 240F.  Very strange.
 
Just for clarification, this CB looks 100% stock?
Any add ons? Like heated grips or even a battery tender plug in?
 
Thread starter
Well, after many months of basic maintenance, changing tires, new brakes pads, bleeding brakes, new clutch master, new battery, new fork bushings, new chain, and most of all the help from PeterBaron, Cormanua, LordPopgun PekingDuck and others, I was finally able to test ride this bike safely down the road with NO issues.  Probably the first time this bike has been ridden without any issues for over 3 years. 
Now the real problem is which one to ride.   The 2014 has so much more power than my 1971.   I'm going to have so much fun.   

HONDALOU
 

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Keep both, many members, including myself have two or more bikes..
And Cormanus formula is very simple n +1
 
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