https://cb1100forum.net/forum/ Tue, 30 Jun 2026 10:40:29 +0000 MyBB https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14810 Wed, 24 Jun 2026 20:22:03 +0000 HondaLou]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14810 My question is if I can put a thin clear coat of paint on these to keep from rusting again? 
Hoping the actual sensor will still work with a coat of paint on them.  

Thanks for your help.

  IMG_1260.jpeg (Size: 1.06 MB / Downloads: 73) ]]> My question is if I can put a thin clear coat of paint on these to keep from rusting again? 
Hoping the actual sensor will still work with a coat of paint on them.  

Thanks for your help.

  IMG_1260.jpeg (Size: 1.06 MB / Downloads: 73) ]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14809 Wed, 24 Jun 2026 19:16:28 +0000 dave]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14809
While performing a valve adjustment on a system that uses the small, metallic shims to achieve the proper clearance, has anyone ever encountered shims that have worn to where the surface that contacts the top of the valve stem is concave (cupped), and therefore is not a parallel surface to the opposite side of the shim?

I believe that I just encountered this condition on my VFR800. I performed all my valve clearance measurements, removed and measured all the shim thicknesses, selected the new (thinner) shims required to achieve the proper clearances, and reassembled everything. Upon remeasuring all the new clearances, I discovered the two exhaust valve clearances that I put .003" thinner shims into did not change at all! I double-checked all my measurements before and after reassembly, and triple checked my math. Even if my math was wrong, I know that the replacement shims were .003: thinner than the shims I removed.

I initially blamed myself for just doing something stupid, but when I did a search on the internet concerning this subject I discovered that I am not the only one who has experienced this problem. I learned that my old shims were most-likely cupped where they contact the valve stem, and when I used my caliper to measure the shim thicknesses (the laser-etched markings were not visible), the flat, parallel edges of my caliper could not provide an accurate measurement. I tossed my old shims into a jar, along with the dozens of other shims I have accumulated over the years, so I can't go back and reexamine them now because I don't know which ones they are.

However, I did just order a point micrometer from Ebay, which will accurately measure the shim thickness, even if they are cupped. As soon as I receive my new micrometer I'll finish my valve adjustments (I've only disassembled the rear cylinder at this time).

If anyone can provide some information on this topic it will not only be valuable to me, but I'm sure there are other members who visit this forum who would find this information helpful

Thank you.]]>
While performing a valve adjustment on a system that uses the small, metallic shims to achieve the proper clearance, has anyone ever encountered shims that have worn to where the surface that contacts the top of the valve stem is concave (cupped), and therefore is not a parallel surface to the opposite side of the shim?

I believe that I just encountered this condition on my VFR800. I performed all my valve clearance measurements, removed and measured all the shim thicknesses, selected the new (thinner) shims required to achieve the proper clearances, and reassembled everything. Upon remeasuring all the new clearances, I discovered the two exhaust valve clearances that I put .003" thinner shims into did not change at all! I double-checked all my measurements before and after reassembly, and triple checked my math. Even if my math was wrong, I know that the replacement shims were .003: thinner than the shims I removed.

I initially blamed myself for just doing something stupid, but when I did a search on the internet concerning this subject I discovered that I am not the only one who has experienced this problem. I learned that my old shims were most-likely cupped where they contact the valve stem, and when I used my caliper to measure the shim thicknesses (the laser-etched markings were not visible), the flat, parallel edges of my caliper could not provide an accurate measurement. I tossed my old shims into a jar, along with the dozens of other shims I have accumulated over the years, so I can't go back and reexamine them now because I don't know which ones they are.

However, I did just order a point micrometer from Ebay, which will accurately measure the shim thickness, even if they are cupped. As soon as I receive my new micrometer I'll finish my valve adjustments (I've only disassembled the rear cylinder at this time).

If anyone can provide some information on this topic it will not only be valuable to me, but I'm sure there are other members who visit this forum who would find this information helpful

Thank you.]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14775 Sat, 16 May 2026 05:36:01 +0000 Cormanus]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14775
Anyway, putting aside the grizzle, I took the cap off and cleaned it up as best I could, including giving it a bath in vinegar. I think I found the two little breather holes and scratched some crud out of them with a needle. I've run the bike for 10 minutes or so and the noise hasn't started again, so here's hoping.

However, I also noted that the spring which compresses to allow the lock tangs to spring out is working ok on one side but not the other. It makes it a bit hard to close the cap easily as the key does not simply spring back. Ideally one would pull it apart and clean the spring up, but I can't see how to do that and I'm not keen on breaking it.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Please?]]>
Anyway, putting aside the grizzle, I took the cap off and cleaned it up as best I could, including giving it a bath in vinegar. I think I found the two little breather holes and scratched some crud out of them with a needle. I've run the bike for 10 minutes or so and the noise hasn't started again, so here's hoping.

However, I also noted that the spring which compresses to allow the lock tangs to spring out is working ok on one side but not the other. It makes it a bit hard to close the cap easily as the key does not simply spring back. Ideally one would pull it apart and clean the spring up, but I can't see how to do that and I'm not keen on breaking it.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Please?]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14772 Wed, 13 May 2026 14:38:04 +0000 Serge from France]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14772 J'ai plus d'éclairage des compteurs ni de feu arrière. Savez vous quel est le fusible qu'il faut changer et si oui où est-il ?
Merci Pour votre aide !]]> J'ai plus d'éclairage des compteurs ni de feu arrière. Savez vous quel est le fusible qu'il faut changer et si oui où est-il ?
Merci Pour votre aide !]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14766 Tue, 05 May 2026 23:32:03 +0000 Cormanus]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14766
My clock has started resetting to 1:00 after the ignition has been off for a day or so. It's not lack of charge in the battery as I've just installed a new one which is showing 12.9v on the meter. Earlier in the year I had the instruments off the bike as ants had somehow nested in there, but the other instruments are working fine, so I find it hard to believe there's a poor connection.

Any thoughts would be very welcome.]]>
My clock has started resetting to 1:00 after the ignition has been off for a day or so. It's not lack of charge in the battery as I've just installed a new one which is showing 12.9v on the meter. Earlier in the year I had the instruments off the bike as ants had somehow nested in there, but the other instruments are working fine, so I find it hard to believe there's a poor connection.

Any thoughts would be very welcome.]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14745 Sat, 18 Apr 2026 19:56:28 +0000 TheLegend]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14745 how to proceed more effectively to make the ECU learn/understand the new way of reading more efficiently, apart from those presented in the manual?  

https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/frontpage.html]]> how to proceed more effectively to make the ECU learn/understand the new way of reading more efficiently, apart from those presented in the manual?  

https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/frontpage.html]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14741 Thu, 16 Apr 2026 14:06:56 +0000 MagnaRider]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14741
Are there aftermarket longer shift levers that work with the CB and has anyone tried it? 
Has anyone changed the location of the shifter relative to the spline shaft it sits on? I have it in the stock position and tonight I think I might try rotating it up a spline. 
Edit: Going to try adjusting this after searching the forum some more. 

Thanks

Also, the link between large feet and other certain male appendages being large is untrue. I just have large socks  ]]>
Are there aftermarket longer shift levers that work with the CB and has anyone tried it? 
Has anyone changed the location of the shifter relative to the spline shaft it sits on? I have it in the stock position and tonight I think I might try rotating it up a spline. 
Edit: Going to try adjusting this after searching the forum some more. 

Thanks

Also, the link between large feet and other certain male appendages being large is untrue. I just have large socks  ]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14740 Sun, 12 Apr 2026 09:51:40 +0000 Walter]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14740
My 2016 CB1100 sa has a strange problem. To me that is. When I start it, everything is perfect. De ABS light comes on, when I ride a little it goes out. The bike rides as smooth as can be and makes me happy. But after 20 km's or so, the ABS light starts blinking and my speedometer goes to zero.
Then I stop, wait a while and then everything is back to normal, but after 5 km's or so, it all starts again. Sometimes it goes away while riding.

The second last time, I came home and parked it in the garage. The day after, the bike wouldn't start. Flat battery. I replaced it with a new one and thought it was over, because the old battery was bulged. Searched what that could be and those things seem to  happen. Battery was 4 years old and never charged during winter times becaus I ride it now and then. (read : I am lazy)

So I tested it again and the bike did it again. Stopped 3 times and the third time it wouldn't start. Acted as if the battery was flat again. Got myself home, don't ask how. Then got back to the bike with the battery of my NC 750 and got home. On that ride the bike did the ABS and speedometer fault once, but that stopped almost immediatly and I got home.

I measured the battery that got out of the bike (the new one that replaced the bulged one) and it measured 13 + volts.

Now I am confused. Why would't the bike not start if the battery is good? 

I am going to find out what this is, because I will. But I thought it is an interesting issue to put on this forum. 

The causes I think about are twofold : Maybe air in the ABS modulator part which confuses the solenoid valve of the ABS module if that is possible. Or else just a minus cable or a connection that is bad. But only when the bike is warmed up? Strange.

The reason I think this is that it all first began with only the ABS light flashing after a fluid change. Maybe some airbubble trapped. Afterwards the problem with the speedometer was added.

This bike does things to me. My wife doen't understand it. I said " the bike has to go, I don't like these kind of problems." She said it was understandable. When I came home i said : "this bike rides so good, I will never part from it" Now she thinks I am crazy and she is consulthing all kinds of doctors...

So guys and maybe girls, what do you think? About the bike I mean, not my wife.

Thanks.]]>
My 2016 CB1100 sa has a strange problem. To me that is. When I start it, everything is perfect. De ABS light comes on, when I ride a little it goes out. The bike rides as smooth as can be and makes me happy. But after 20 km's or so, the ABS light starts blinking and my speedometer goes to zero.
Then I stop, wait a while and then everything is back to normal, but after 5 km's or so, it all starts again. Sometimes it goes away while riding.

The second last time, I came home and parked it in the garage. The day after, the bike wouldn't start. Flat battery. I replaced it with a new one and thought it was over, because the old battery was bulged. Searched what that could be and those things seem to  happen. Battery was 4 years old and never charged during winter times becaus I ride it now and then. (read : I am lazy)

So I tested it again and the bike did it again. Stopped 3 times and the third time it wouldn't start. Acted as if the battery was flat again. Got myself home, don't ask how. Then got back to the bike with the battery of my NC 750 and got home. On that ride the bike did the ABS and speedometer fault once, but that stopped almost immediatly and I got home.

I measured the battery that got out of the bike (the new one that replaced the bulged one) and it measured 13 + volts.

Now I am confused. Why would't the bike not start if the battery is good? 

I am going to find out what this is, because I will. But I thought it is an interesting issue to put on this forum. 

The causes I think about are twofold : Maybe air in the ABS modulator part which confuses the solenoid valve of the ABS module if that is possible. Or else just a minus cable or a connection that is bad. But only when the bike is warmed up? Strange.

The reason I think this is that it all first began with only the ABS light flashing after a fluid change. Maybe some airbubble trapped. Afterwards the problem with the speedometer was added.

This bike does things to me. My wife doen't understand it. I said " the bike has to go, I don't like these kind of problems." She said it was understandable. When I came home i said : "this bike rides so good, I will never part from it" Now she thinks I am crazy and she is consulthing all kinds of doctors...

So guys and maybe girls, what do you think? About the bike I mean, not my wife.

Thanks.]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14724 Fri, 27 Mar 2026 23:00:49 +0000 LucienLeFranc]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14724
I didn't get the maintenance records with the bike (dumb), but the previous owner is an older car and motorcycle collector, and the original owner before that worked at the dealership, so I'm almost completely certain that  the maintenance schedule had been followed.

The 8K service was probably done three or maybe five or more years ago? 

I'm inclined to ride it as is until 12k, inspect everything per the 8k schedule along with performing the 12k maintenance at that time.

Good plan?

Thoughts and advice regarding any specicific parts of the bike to check immediately instead of waiting?]]>
I didn't get the maintenance records with the bike (dumb), but the previous owner is an older car and motorcycle collector, and the original owner before that worked at the dealership, so I'm almost completely certain that  the maintenance schedule had been followed.

The 8K service was probably done three or maybe five or more years ago? 

I'm inclined to ride it as is until 12k, inspect everything per the 8k schedule along with performing the 12k maintenance at that time.

Good plan?

Thoughts and advice regarding any specicific parts of the bike to check immediately instead of waiting?]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14714 Fri, 20 Mar 2026 13:48:14 +0000 1973cb750]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14714
]]>
]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14711 Mon, 16 Mar 2026 17:18:59 +0000 dave]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14711
On the CB1100, do the camshaft drive gears need to be removed to allow removal of the camshafts, or can the camshaft drive chain be loosened, and slipped off without removing the gear(s)?]]>
On the CB1100, do the camshaft drive gears need to be removed to allow removal of the camshafts, or can the camshaft drive chain be loosened, and slipped off without removing the gear(s)?]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14705 Thu, 12 Mar 2026 10:00:40 +0000 spechg]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14705
https://youtu.be/kSMi8WWwevs?is=KF14KAkR9QCjDwF6]]>
https://youtu.be/kSMi8WWwevs?is=KF14KAkR9QCjDwF6]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14703 Wed, 11 Mar 2026 11:40:45 +0000 TheLegend]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14703 Oxidation resistance, Higher film strength, Better flow at low temperatures, les engine noise/knocking, in comparison to the classic mineral ProHonda?

  Prohonda.pdf (Size: 294.94 KB / Downloads: 15) ]]> Oxidation resistance, Higher film strength, Better flow at low temperatures, les engine noise/knocking, in comparison to the classic mineral ProHonda?

  Prohonda.pdf (Size: 294.94 KB / Downloads: 15) ]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14700 Thu, 05 Mar 2026 17:38:39 +0000 17-CB-002]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14700 T33 series tires is a 47% improvement in thread wear while retaining the same performance to the T32.

I just want to get this Forum humble opinion in regards to tires that fits the 2017 CB EX with spokes rims.

My actual tires are the Bridgestone T32 series which wet performance I felt safe, however, I am interested in the new T33 series with longer thread wear.

Standard Front tires  (110-80R18).
- The T33 series does not offer the above mentioned size but only offers the 120/70ZR18.
My questions are directed to those who have ever used the 120 in front.

From memory my spoke rim width is either a 3.0 or 3.5 inch, and my questions are: 
Q1. Will the 120 tire safely fit into the rim without too much squish?
Q2  Will the 120 tire clear the fender?

Standard Rear Tires (140/70R18).
The T33 series lineup only offers the 160/60ZR18.
This one is too much of a jump, therefore I have no choice but to stay with the T32 until availability in the T33 series.

From my understanding:
110/80 tires can fit rim size of : 2.15, 2.5, 2.75. 3.0
140/70 tires can fit rim size of: 3.5, 4.25, 5.0, 5.5

Thanks]]> T33 series tires is a 47% improvement in thread wear while retaining the same performance to the T32.

I just want to get this Forum humble opinion in regards to tires that fits the 2017 CB EX with spokes rims.

My actual tires are the Bridgestone T32 series which wet performance I felt safe, however, I am interested in the new T33 series with longer thread wear.

Standard Front tires  (110-80R18).
- The T33 series does not offer the above mentioned size but only offers the 120/70ZR18.
My questions are directed to those who have ever used the 120 in front.

From memory my spoke rim width is either a 3.0 or 3.5 inch, and my questions are: 
Q1. Will the 120 tire safely fit into the rim without too much squish?
Q2  Will the 120 tire clear the fender?

Standard Rear Tires (140/70R18).
The T33 series lineup only offers the 160/60ZR18.
This one is too much of a jump, therefore I have no choice but to stay with the T32 until availability in the T33 series.

From my understanding:
110/80 tires can fit rim size of : 2.15, 2.5, 2.75. 3.0
140/70 tires can fit rim size of: 3.5, 4.25, 5.0, 5.5

Thanks]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14694 Thu, 26 Feb 2026 01:11:13 +0000 pdedse]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14694
Of late, with no significant changes other than weather, it seems I'm getting 38-39.  I don't check that often, I just do a quick mental calculation while filling and if it's above 43 I don't think much about it.  What are some reasons for a noticeable difference?  I keep the tires inflated at 36/42.  The valves were checked once at 14k miles, in spec, at which time the spark plugs were replaced.  Currently it has 31k.  Starting is normal.  I don't detect any drag on brakes.  Thoughts?]]>
Of late, with no significant changes other than weather, it seems I'm getting 38-39.  I don't check that often, I just do a quick mental calculation while filling and if it's above 43 I don't think much about it.  What are some reasons for a noticeable difference?  I keep the tires inflated at 36/42.  The valves were checked once at 14k miles, in spec, at which time the spark plugs were replaced.  Currently it has 31k.  Starting is normal.  I don't detect any drag on brakes.  Thoughts?]]>