https://cb1100forum.net/forum/ Mon, 17 Aug 2026 01:18:18 +0000 MyBB https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14663 Sat, 24 Jan 2026 07:18:21 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14663

For a relatively modest investment, it is possible to equip a home shop with the tools necessary to maintain a CB1100 with confidence. For whatever it is worth, here is what I have acquired along the way.

Safety Goggles and Gloves



Basic Mechanic Tool Set



[b]Persuaders



Torque Wrenches



Scrapers, Sanders, Duct Tape, Electrical Tap, Zip Ties. JB Weld



Pliers and Scrapers



Tape Measures and Ruler



Lights and Roller Seat



Manuals and Tablets (Windows and Apple)



Fluid Collectors and Protective Floor Mat



We are all pressed for space in our garages. For perspective, see the total storage required for my tools relative to the size of motorcycle.



I am not sure if this Thread will spark much interest. But if anyone would like me to add some links to learn more tool specifics, please let me know. I would be delighted to add them to this Thread.

Take care and stay warm. David]]>

For a relatively modest investment, it is possible to equip a home shop with the tools necessary to maintain a CB1100 with confidence. For whatever it is worth, here is what I have acquired along the way.

Safety Goggles and Gloves



Basic Mechanic Tool Set



[b]Persuaders



Torque Wrenches



Scrapers, Sanders, Duct Tape, Electrical Tap, Zip Ties. JB Weld



Pliers and Scrapers



Tape Measures and Ruler



Lights and Roller Seat



Manuals and Tablets (Windows and Apple)



Fluid Collectors and Protective Floor Mat



We are all pressed for space in our garages. For perspective, see the total storage required for my tools relative to the size of motorcycle.



I am not sure if this Thread will spark much interest. But if anyone would like me to add some links to learn more tool specifics, please let me know. I would be delighted to add them to this Thread.

Take care and stay warm. David]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14628 Sun, 21 Dec 2025 21:22:10 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14628
One item on the list is bleeding the brakes and clutch. This year, I plan for the first time ever to reverse bleed my brakes and clutch systems. My inspiration for this pivot came courtesy of a RevZilla Video I saw while scrolling for tools:



From an engineering / design perspectives, I can see how the "bubbles" could be easier to disperse if the fluid is moving "up" to the reservoir as opposed to "down" through the bleed valve on a caliber. But as logical as that may sound,  my experience working in the energy sector has taught me that trapped air can sometimes have a mind of its own!   

That is why I went looking for a kit that had a back-pressure valve to help me manage flow. I found an incredibly affordable kit on Amazon. Please see Meonum 2 Pack Brake Bleeder Kit. Pictures follow.

If this experiment works, I will be delighted to reduce time and the amount of fluid I typically use. If it fails spectacularly, I can always revert to a traditional bleeding of the brake and clutch systems.

I follow many motorcycle mechanics on YouTube. The Flying Lumpia is one of those. He has a vibe and tone about him that is engaging and is relatable. He is a track guy who rides every day, ocassionally as a hooligan street racer.

He found a way to use the back pressure valve in a traditional brake-bleeding scenario:



I am cautiously optimistic things will work because of the engineering behind the ABS system on my motorcycle. God Bless Honda for nice clean cabling that moves predominantly upward. I will include that analysis in the "How To" I will publish on Christmas Eve.

If you have attempted this technique yourself, please answer the poll question and indicate your experiences. Have a great week.

David







]]>
One item on the list is bleeding the brakes and clutch. This year, I plan for the first time ever to reverse bleed my brakes and clutch systems. My inspiration for this pivot came courtesy of a RevZilla Video I saw while scrolling for tools:



From an engineering / design perspectives, I can see how the "bubbles" could be easier to disperse if the fluid is moving "up" to the reservoir as opposed to "down" through the bleed valve on a caliber. But as logical as that may sound,  my experience working in the energy sector has taught me that trapped air can sometimes have a mind of its own!   

That is why I went looking for a kit that had a back-pressure valve to help me manage flow. I found an incredibly affordable kit on Amazon. Please see Meonum 2 Pack Brake Bleeder Kit. Pictures follow.

If this experiment works, I will be delighted to reduce time and the amount of fluid I typically use. If it fails spectacularly, I can always revert to a traditional bleeding of the brake and clutch systems.

I follow many motorcycle mechanics on YouTube. The Flying Lumpia is one of those. He has a vibe and tone about him that is engaging and is relatable. He is a track guy who rides every day, ocassionally as a hooligan street racer.

He found a way to use the back pressure valve in a traditional brake-bleeding scenario:



I am cautiously optimistic things will work because of the engineering behind the ABS system on my motorcycle. God Bless Honda for nice clean cabling that moves predominantly upward. I will include that analysis in the "How To" I will publish on Christmas Eve.

If you have attempted this technique yourself, please answer the poll question and indicate your experiences. Have a great week.

David







]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14622 Tue, 09 Dec 2025 17:22:49 +0000 pdedse]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14622
I've tried PB Blaster, applying heat, I'm using a 1.5' breaker bar, acetone and so far the bolt won't budge.  I couldn't find a metal cheater bar I've used in the past, but that might be my next step.  I did find my old air impact wrench, but...it's over 30 years old and doesn't work any more and my even older compressor might not be working well with the higher psi settings.

I started looking at air impact wrenches and, wow, the options. In the back of my mind I thought I might buy a new air impact and I don't even know if my compressor will work with it.  Then somebody on another forum asked me why don't I just buy a chordless impact wrench.  

That didn't even register with me.  Chordless...whaaa...?  My first thought was how does the wrench get air from the compressor if there's no chord?    I'm not always quick with mechanical related things.  After a few online searches it dawns on me that chordless means they got batt...ooooohhhhhh. 

  

Cool! And I resumed my search.

How many chordless impact wrench brands does this planet need?  And how much impact wrench power do I really need considering I'm working mainly on motorcycles?

So with about 20 different internet pages open and my head spinning, I see that perhaps my first decision is whether to go with 3/8" or 1/2".  Seems that some people say 3/8" will do 90% of what you want, others say just go with 1/2" but be careful.  The 3/8" impacts seem to be smaller and lighter...and cheaper, but maybe the reason I need an impact wrench is for that 10% of the time.

Questions: 
1) If I'm thinking for this current 19mm stuck bolt, 3/8" OK or go for the bigger 1/2" because if I have it, I'll use it for more "stuck things" in the future?

2) Brands: Since I haven't even used my air impact wrench in probably 20+ years, I ask myself a) how often will I use it? and b) how long will I live?  In other words, maybe I don't need the best of the best.  I'd like to stay around $200 or less with battery included, which allows me for lots of brand I've never heard of, and maybe allows me to buy a lower end "nice one".  Many seem to like Milwaukee.

--a 3/8" Milwaukee mid-torq impact (3.4lbs / $200 w/out battery)
--a 3/8" Milwaukee M18 compact (2.7lbs / $150 w/out battery)
--a 1/2" Milwaukee M18, heavier
--or one of the cheap brands: aeropro, Seesii, Protmex, Agsen, Sundpel, etc.

--other recognized by me brands: dewalt, ingersoll rand, ryobi, makita, craftsman

--one that you recommend because of your own experience?

Thanks for any input.  If the cheater bar works, I may not even bother, but at the same time maybe an impact would help me as I age and loose some strength.]]>
I've tried PB Blaster, applying heat, I'm using a 1.5' breaker bar, acetone and so far the bolt won't budge.  I couldn't find a metal cheater bar I've used in the past, but that might be my next step.  I did find my old air impact wrench, but...it's over 30 years old and doesn't work any more and my even older compressor might not be working well with the higher psi settings.

I started looking at air impact wrenches and, wow, the options. In the back of my mind I thought I might buy a new air impact and I don't even know if my compressor will work with it.  Then somebody on another forum asked me why don't I just buy a chordless impact wrench.  

That didn't even register with me.  Chordless...whaaa...?  My first thought was how does the wrench get air from the compressor if there's no chord?    I'm not always quick with mechanical related things.  After a few online searches it dawns on me that chordless means they got batt...ooooohhhhhh. 

  

Cool! And I resumed my search.

How many chordless impact wrench brands does this planet need?  And how much impact wrench power do I really need considering I'm working mainly on motorcycles?

So with about 20 different internet pages open and my head spinning, I see that perhaps my first decision is whether to go with 3/8" or 1/2".  Seems that some people say 3/8" will do 90% of what you want, others say just go with 1/2" but be careful.  The 3/8" impacts seem to be smaller and lighter...and cheaper, but maybe the reason I need an impact wrench is for that 10% of the time.

Questions: 
1) If I'm thinking for this current 19mm stuck bolt, 3/8" OK or go for the bigger 1/2" because if I have it, I'll use it for more "stuck things" in the future?

2) Brands: Since I haven't even used my air impact wrench in probably 20+ years, I ask myself a) how often will I use it? and b) how long will I live?  In other words, maybe I don't need the best of the best.  I'd like to stay around $200 or less with battery included, which allows me for lots of brand I've never heard of, and maybe allows me to buy a lower end "nice one".  Many seem to like Milwaukee.

--a 3/8" Milwaukee mid-torq impact (3.4lbs / $200 w/out battery)
--a 3/8" Milwaukee M18 compact (2.7lbs / $150 w/out battery)
--a 1/2" Milwaukee M18, heavier
--or one of the cheap brands: aeropro, Seesii, Protmex, Agsen, Sundpel, etc.

--other recognized by me brands: dewalt, ingersoll rand, ryobi, makita, craftsman

--one that you recommend because of your own experience?

Thanks for any input.  If the cheater bar works, I may not even bother, but at the same time maybe an impact would help me as I age and loose some strength.]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=47 Sun, 13 Apr 2025 18:49:01 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=47 I recently purchased my first digital torque wrench, a DeWalt DWMT1760. It is fantastic. I recently used it to adjust the chain on my 2017 CB1100EX. It was absolutely perfect to use and ideal for that maintenance task.

Product Overview
Convert torque quickly and accurately with the DEWALT® Digital Torque Wrench. Featuring a protective rubber-bumper head, versatile measurement options, and a large backlit LED screen, this advanced Digital Torque Wrench is ideal for challenging jobs in tight spaces.

Additional Features
At-a-glance visibility – delivers clear readouts on a backlit led screenQuick conversions – make fast conversions with a push of a buttonDurable construction – complete tough tasks with the protective rubber head bumperComfortable grip – work long days with a bi-material handle and grip designed for extended use.

Includes
(2) Batteries
(1) Case
(1) Digital Torque Wrench
(1) Instruciton Manual

Here are a few pictures I took during that task. Note that all Torque wrenches must be calibrated to work properly. Handle them with care.











]]> I recently purchased my first digital torque wrench, a DeWalt DWMT1760. It is fantastic. I recently used it to adjust the chain on my 2017 CB1100EX. It was absolutely perfect to use and ideal for that maintenance task.

Product Overview
Convert torque quickly and accurately with the DEWALT® Digital Torque Wrench. Featuring a protective rubber-bumper head, versatile measurement options, and a large backlit LED screen, this advanced Digital Torque Wrench is ideal for challenging jobs in tight spaces.

Additional Features
At-a-glance visibility – delivers clear readouts on a backlit led screenQuick conversions – make fast conversions with a push of a buttonDurable construction – complete tough tasks with the protective rubber head bumperComfortable grip – work long days with a bi-material handle and grip designed for extended use.

Includes
(2) Batteries
(1) Case
(1) Digital Torque Wrench
(1) Instruciton Manual

Here are a few pictures I took during that task. Note that all Torque wrenches must be calibrated to work properly. Handle them with care.











]]>