https://cb1100forum.net/forum/ Sun, 23 Aug 2026 14:32:26 +0000 MyBB https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14816 Wed, 01 Jul 2026 23:31:54 +0000 HondaLou]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14816
Well ... Ace Hardware has this part in their plumbing section for $1 each.  I tried Lowes and Home Depot, but their O rings were too thick, too small or too large. 
Here are the photos of the Honda part, the Ace hardware part and the final install. 
It was a perfect fit.

  Front Turn Signal.jpg (Size: 31.4 KB / Downloads: 16)

  Turn Signal 1.jpeg (Size: 887.24 KB / Downloads: 16)

  Turn Signal 2.jpeg (Size: 645.25 KB / Downloads: 17) ]]>
Well ... Ace Hardware has this part in their plumbing section for $1 each.  I tried Lowes and Home Depot, but their O rings were too thick, too small or too large. 
Here are the photos of the Honda part, the Ace hardware part and the final install. 
It was a perfect fit.

  Front Turn Signal.jpg (Size: 31.4 KB / Downloads: 16)

  Turn Signal 1.jpeg (Size: 887.24 KB / Downloads: 16)

  Turn Signal 2.jpeg (Size: 645.25 KB / Downloads: 17) ]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14788 Fri, 29 May 2026 18:02:11 +0000 pannierbagger]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14788
I’m thinking about replacing the whole pan, as a used one in good shape is around 50 dollars shipped. I can’t find a good step-by-step guide though. 

I know the gist of it would be: remove plug with downward pressure, drain oil, remove exhaust, remove bolts, wack with 2x4 or similar around seal, remove pan, clean mating surface on bike and new pan, apply sealant, apply bolts to torque spec and make sure new plug is torqued to 22 ft-lbs, add 4.1 quarts oil

Is there anything I’m missing/need to add/change? Should I ask a shop to install a helicoil instead of changing the pan? Thank you]]>
I’m thinking about replacing the whole pan, as a used one in good shape is around 50 dollars shipped. I can’t find a good step-by-step guide though. 

I know the gist of it would be: remove plug with downward pressure, drain oil, remove exhaust, remove bolts, wack with 2x4 or similar around seal, remove pan, clean mating surface on bike and new pan, apply sealant, apply bolts to torque spec and make sure new plug is torqued to 22 ft-lbs, add 4.1 quarts oil

Is there anything I’m missing/need to add/change? Should I ask a shop to install a helicoil instead of changing the pan? Thank you]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14786 Mon, 25 May 2026 05:27:13 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14786 Galfer, hoping they had already created a CB1100EX upgrade "kit" to replace the OEM rubber clutch and brake lines. Rubber lines degrade from UV exposure, heat cycling, and age — they swell microscopically under pressure and eventually crack. Braided stainless lines resist all of that, so performance stays consistent for years longer, possibly forever, if properly manufactured. Although Galfer recognizes that the CB1100 had a limited production run, they admire the motorcycle. They agreed to create a kit for zealots like me. Here is how it worked:

Step 1: We sent Galfer a brand-new set of OEM clutch and brake lines for my CB1100EX.

Step 2: They created a set of steel-braided lines after examining the OEM lines.

Step 3: They shipped a set of orange prototype lines.

Step 4: Sam (Parts Guy), Mike (Service Mechanic), and I partially disassembled my motorcycle and simulated a line installation, using zip ties to connect the prototype lines to the actual lines.

Step 5: Once "installed," we took pictures and returned them to Galfer, along with instructions on what needed to be adjusted to ensure everything works properly. Two of their prototype lines were too long.

Step 6: We removed the prototype lines and returned them to Galfer. We reassembled my motorcycle.

Step 7: Galfer will ship the production set of lines in 30 days, following our instructions and using the color and connectors I selected. They will also add the custom "set" to their part's catalog and make it available to their distributors.

Other than longevity, what I expect to gain from this exercise:

• A more direct, linear response when I squeeze the brake or clutch lever
  
• Better heat management of brake fluid, which reduces the risk of vapor lock and brake fade during aggressive or prolonged braking
  
• A more consistent riding experience (rubber behaves differently when it is very cold or very hot outside)
  

I took some pictures while we were "installing" the prototype lines, along with a couple of shots of the mechanic's area, where the wrenching, cursing, and magic all happen. I hope you enjoy them. I will publish Part 2 once the lines are installed.

Mechanic’s Area



Prototype Cables





Staging Motorcycle



Painful Tank Removal







“Installing" Prototype Cables









]]> Galfer, hoping they had already created a CB1100EX upgrade "kit" to replace the OEM rubber clutch and brake lines. Rubber lines degrade from UV exposure, heat cycling, and age — they swell microscopically under pressure and eventually crack. Braided stainless lines resist all of that, so performance stays consistent for years longer, possibly forever, if properly manufactured. Although Galfer recognizes that the CB1100 had a limited production run, they admire the motorcycle. They agreed to create a kit for zealots like me. Here is how it worked:

Step 1: We sent Galfer a brand-new set of OEM clutch and brake lines for my CB1100EX.

Step 2: They created a set of steel-braided lines after examining the OEM lines.

Step 3: They shipped a set of orange prototype lines.

Step 4: Sam (Parts Guy), Mike (Service Mechanic), and I partially disassembled my motorcycle and simulated a line installation, using zip ties to connect the prototype lines to the actual lines.

Step 5: Once "installed," we took pictures and returned them to Galfer, along with instructions on what needed to be adjusted to ensure everything works properly. Two of their prototype lines were too long.

Step 6: We removed the prototype lines and returned them to Galfer. We reassembled my motorcycle.

Step 7: Galfer will ship the production set of lines in 30 days, following our instructions and using the color and connectors I selected. They will also add the custom "set" to their part's catalog and make it available to their distributors.

Other than longevity, what I expect to gain from this exercise:

• A more direct, linear response when I squeeze the brake or clutch lever
  
• Better heat management of brake fluid, which reduces the risk of vapor lock and brake fade during aggressive or prolonged braking
  
• A more consistent riding experience (rubber behaves differently when it is very cold or very hot outside)
  

I took some pictures while we were "installing" the prototype lines, along with a couple of shots of the mechanic's area, where the wrenching, cursing, and magic all happen. I hope you enjoy them. I will publish Part 2 once the lines are installed.

Mechanic’s Area



Prototype Cables





Staging Motorcycle



Painful Tank Removal







“Installing" Prototype Cables









]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14709 Mon, 16 Mar 2026 00:53:04 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14709 Tesla Owner in a Whole Foods Parking Lot. I have somewhat managed to channel my amazement and rage by enjoying the quality time spent repairing my motorcycle. 

This thread documents how to replace a damaged Handlebar Weight Assembly. Note that this assembly plays a very important role in enhancing our riding experience. They reduce handlebar vibrations from the engine and the road. They also improve stability by decreasing muscle fatigue in your hands. They are a “have-to-have,” not a “nice-to-have,” regardless of what any Internet influencer may assert.

See the most common scenarios when a handlebar weight replacement is warranted:

• Damage from a Drop or Crash: If the handlebar end has been scraped, dented, or bent during a fall or accident, the weight should be replaced to restore structural integrity and balance.
  
• Missing or Loose Components: If the weight has fallen off due to vibrations loosening the screw, or if the internal threads are stripped.
  
• Significant Corrosion or Rust: If the part is heavily corroded, it might prevent it from fitting properly or affect its function.
  
• Damaged Rubber Dampers:  If the rubber has deteriorated or hardened, it may cause the weight to vibrate, requiring a replacement of the weight or its mounting rubber.
  
• Excessive Handlebar Vibration: If you experience new or increased tingling/numbness in your hands while riding, it may indicate a damaged or ineffective bar weight.
  

Please note that although I experienced something akin to dropping a motorcycle in a garage, the entire assembly was damaged, and the snap rings was completely obliterated from the weight and momentum of the motorcycle landing on the bar end weight. I suspect this was the result of my decision to hard stop, hold the handlebars firmly, and try as best I could to have the force of the impact centered on the handlebar weight:



Here is how I went about replacing it. As always, defer to the professional mechanics if someone gently calls me out for a needless or questionable step!

Step 1: Source a diagram that details the Handlebar Top Bridge of your motorcycle. Make sure you specify the year, make, and model of your motorcycle. Honda designers are slightly mischievous. They have been known to make minor changes between model years. I use Revzilla:



Step 2: Procure the six replacement parts before you remove the handlebar weight assembly:

• 11: HANDLE WEIGHT RUBBER A: (53106-KR3-770)
  
• 9: HANDLEBAR WEIGHT B: (53105-KV3-000)
  
• 11: HANDLE WEIGHT RUBBER A: (53106-KR3-770)
  
• 12: HANDLE WEIGHT SNAP RING (53108-KR3-940)
  
• 10: HANDLEBAR WEIGHT (53105-MEJ-720)
  
• 20: 6X65 OVAL SCREW (90191-MK6-6700)
  

There is a possibility you will not be able to reinstall a damaged assembly. Hence, order everything first and check part numbers closely.

Step 3: After you have received all the replacement parts, remove the damaged assembly.  Turn the oval screw counterclockwise to remove the external handlebar weight. Make sure you support the handlebar weight while you are disengaging the screw. There is a good chance the screw will be bent. Make sure you have the proper bit and that it is flush with the screwhead. Turn slowly while applying a constant pressure on the screw:



Step 4: After removing the handlebar weight, insert the oval screw back into the assembly and tighten it again by turning clockwise. Turn the screw until it is as fully inserted as possible. Do not overtighten the screw. We want it snug but no more.



Step 5: Using a pair of vice grips or pliers, attach to the screw and pull the assembly out of the handlebar. Make sure you are aligned with the handlebars as you pull. We want the damaged assembly to slide out with as little effort as possible.



Step 6: Inspect the assembly. In my incident, the force of the motorcycle slamming to the ground crushed the retention metal clip! Old nerd that I am, I calculated the gravitation and kinetic force of a 550 lb motorcycle going four miles per hour with a 150 IB rider with a downward dejectory of 3.5 ft. I believe the impact resulted in 19,442 lbf (foot pounds of force). That is the equivalent of 6 average-sized cars or a small aircraft!!!!



Step 7: Clean the inside of the handlebar and remove whatever debris may be left in the tube. I improvised by taping a heavy cloth to a screwdriver and inserting it into the handlebar tube. I turned and turned and withdrew the screwdriver and found the remnants of the metal retention clip, which had been turned to metal shavings/powder from the force of the fall:







Step 8: Assemble the handlebar assembly and add a small amount of lubricant to the rubber end caps. I use white chain grease, but I suspect any lubricant that will not corrupt the rubber over time will do just fine:





Step 9: Insert the new assembly and, using a rubber mallet, gently insert it into the handlebar tube. Note that the handlebars may have been slightly damaged, too. Go slowly and do not apply too much force. Trust your instincts. The new assembly will either go in with a gentle push or not at all:





Step 10: Assuming all is well, place the new bar end weight on the assembly and tighten the screw to 6.6 ft-lbs (about 9 N·m). I recommend using blue Loctite to help keep things properly secure but it is unclear to me if this practice is widely followed or another example of me making things more complicated than necessary!



It is a wonderful feeling to see the bar weight properly secured and pristine once more. Here’s hoping you never run afoul of a Tesla in a parking lot! Have a great week. David]]> Tesla Owner in a Whole Foods Parking Lot. I have somewhat managed to channel my amazement and rage by enjoying the quality time spent repairing my motorcycle. 

This thread documents how to replace a damaged Handlebar Weight Assembly. Note that this assembly plays a very important role in enhancing our riding experience. They reduce handlebar vibrations from the engine and the road. They also improve stability by decreasing muscle fatigue in your hands. They are a “have-to-have,” not a “nice-to-have,” regardless of what any Internet influencer may assert.

See the most common scenarios when a handlebar weight replacement is warranted:

• Damage from a Drop or Crash: If the handlebar end has been scraped, dented, or bent during a fall or accident, the weight should be replaced to restore structural integrity and balance.
  
• Missing or Loose Components: If the weight has fallen off due to vibrations loosening the screw, or if the internal threads are stripped.
  
• Significant Corrosion or Rust: If the part is heavily corroded, it might prevent it from fitting properly or affect its function.
  
• Damaged Rubber Dampers:  If the rubber has deteriorated or hardened, it may cause the weight to vibrate, requiring a replacement of the weight or its mounting rubber.
  
• Excessive Handlebar Vibration: If you experience new or increased tingling/numbness in your hands while riding, it may indicate a damaged or ineffective bar weight.
  

Please note that although I experienced something akin to dropping a motorcycle in a garage, the entire assembly was damaged, and the snap rings was completely obliterated from the weight and momentum of the motorcycle landing on the bar end weight. I suspect this was the result of my decision to hard stop, hold the handlebars firmly, and try as best I could to have the force of the impact centered on the handlebar weight:



Here is how I went about replacing it. As always, defer to the professional mechanics if someone gently calls me out for a needless or questionable step!

Step 1: Source a diagram that details the Handlebar Top Bridge of your motorcycle. Make sure you specify the year, make, and model of your motorcycle. Honda designers are slightly mischievous. They have been known to make minor changes between model years. I use Revzilla:



Step 2: Procure the six replacement parts before you remove the handlebar weight assembly:

• 11: HANDLE WEIGHT RUBBER A: (53106-KR3-770)
  
• 9: HANDLEBAR WEIGHT B: (53105-KV3-000)
  
• 11: HANDLE WEIGHT RUBBER A: (53106-KR3-770)
  
• 12: HANDLE WEIGHT SNAP RING (53108-KR3-940)
  
• 10: HANDLEBAR WEIGHT (53105-MEJ-720)
  
• 20: 6X65 OVAL SCREW (90191-MK6-6700)
  

There is a possibility you will not be able to reinstall a damaged assembly. Hence, order everything first and check part numbers closely.

Step 3: After you have received all the replacement parts, remove the damaged assembly.  Turn the oval screw counterclockwise to remove the external handlebar weight. Make sure you support the handlebar weight while you are disengaging the screw. There is a good chance the screw will be bent. Make sure you have the proper bit and that it is flush with the screwhead. Turn slowly while applying a constant pressure on the screw:



Step 4: After removing the handlebar weight, insert the oval screw back into the assembly and tighten it again by turning clockwise. Turn the screw until it is as fully inserted as possible. Do not overtighten the screw. We want it snug but no more.



Step 5: Using a pair of vice grips or pliers, attach to the screw and pull the assembly out of the handlebar. Make sure you are aligned with the handlebars as you pull. We want the damaged assembly to slide out with as little effort as possible.



Step 6: Inspect the assembly. In my incident, the force of the motorcycle slamming to the ground crushed the retention metal clip! Old nerd that I am, I calculated the gravitation and kinetic force of a 550 lb motorcycle going four miles per hour with a 150 IB rider with a downward dejectory of 3.5 ft. I believe the impact resulted in 19,442 lbf (foot pounds of force). That is the equivalent of 6 average-sized cars or a small aircraft!!!!



Step 7: Clean the inside of the handlebar and remove whatever debris may be left in the tube. I improvised by taping a heavy cloth to a screwdriver and inserting it into the handlebar tube. I turned and turned and withdrew the screwdriver and found the remnants of the metal retention clip, which had been turned to metal shavings/powder from the force of the fall:







Step 8: Assemble the handlebar assembly and add a small amount of lubricant to the rubber end caps. I use white chain grease, but I suspect any lubricant that will not corrupt the rubber over time will do just fine:





Step 9: Insert the new assembly and, using a rubber mallet, gently insert it into the handlebar tube. Note that the handlebars may have been slightly damaged, too. Go slowly and do not apply too much force. Trust your instincts. The new assembly will either go in with a gentle push or not at all:





Step 10: Assuming all is well, place the new bar end weight on the assembly and tighten the screw to 6.6 ft-lbs (about 9 N·m). I recommend using blue Loctite to help keep things properly secure but it is unclear to me if this practice is widely followed or another example of me making things more complicated than necessary!



It is a wonderful feeling to see the bar weight properly secured and pristine once more. Here’s hoping you never run afoul of a Tesla in a parking lot! Have a great week. David]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14699 Mon, 02 Mar 2026 16:15:03 +0000 MagnaRider]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14699 For reference, this was done on a 2014 CB1100, so this will only work for tubeless tires. I would also greatly recommend watching the below video as a guide on techniques used to take the tire off and on. 
https://youtu.be/Plx-30HHS2w?si=cooXLyv9DRrpo2ux
Also I did use the shop manual for the CB1100 for steps to remove both tires. Relatively easy procedure for both. 

Using stock tire size, I ordered a Bridgestone T32 for the rear and Pirelli Angel GT for the front. 

Step 1:
Gather required tools. All of these tools were bought from Amazon and quality was great, only about ~$60 in tools.
2-3 Tire Spoons
2 rim protectors
Tire Weights
Soapy water in spray bottle
Balancing stand
Carpet square for working on
Boards for spacing tire on so rotors are not damaged.
Beer (Some may say optional, in my shop its required when working    )

  tire 2.jpg (Size: 245.39 KB / Downloads: 106)

Step 2:
Set new tires somewhere to be warmed up. Since I live in Wisconsin and my motorcycle maintenance occurs during winter while the bike is hibernating, I set the tires by my shop woodstove rotating every 30 min or so. Did not take long for them to get warm and made installation much easier. If you live somewhere warm, setting in the sun is another option.

  tire 3.jpg (Size: 219.22 KB / Downloads: 106)

Step 3:
For me I used my homemade motorcycle lift table ( DIY Motorcycle/ATV Lift ) to get the CB at a better working height, since I was also going to be changing oil and some other routine maintenance/cleaning. The lift table makes it very easy as well to lift the front tire up for changing.

  tire 1.jpg (Size: 254.15 KB / Downloads: 106)
  tire 4.jpg (Size: 254.74 KB / Downloads: 106)

Tire Removal
From here it was a process of following the shop manual for removing the tire, and watching the above YouTube video for techniques. I did end up using a high lift jack to break the bead off the tire which made it very easy as this can be difficult. 

  tire 5.jpg (Size: 141.63 KB / Downloads: 106)
 
Once the tire bead is broke, you can begin removing the tire from the wheel. Using plenty of soapy water, tire spoons, rim protectors and following the above youtube video it was much easier than I thought it would be and I did not scratch the rim.
NOTE: MAKE SURE TO MARK TIRE ROTATION DIRECTION AS THIS IS NEEDED FOR INSTALLING NEW TIRE ON THE CORRECT ORIENTATION!!!!! Use whatever method works for you, I used a paint mark on the rotor as the brake will wipe that off as soon as they get used. 

Tire Installation
After a quick rehydrate of beverage of choice, I took my toasty tire and following the Youtube video got it installed with the same tools used to remove the tire. One recommendation I would use next time is wearing a knee pad since your knees can get sore having to hold the tire in the drop zone while you finish getting the bead onto the wheel. Check that the orientation is correct and that the tire dots are aligned to the valve stem on your wheel. Now the valve stem core can be reinstalled and air added to the tire to set the bead. Both my beads set with ease.
  tire 6.jpg (Size: 120.96 KB / Downloads: 106)

Balancing Tires
Using the balancing stand, I was able to balance both tires. I took my time trying multiple different orientations until the tire would barely move and settled in different locations each time. Good video for reference. https://youtube.com/shorts/y861qjpREvc?s...O9k78T4NSG

From here it was installing the tires back on the CB and wait for spring to come. Oh, and a few more rehydrating beverages while admiring my work. 
This was not a difficult process, and I would encourage anyone thinking of doing this on their own to give it a try. I only had a very very minor scratch on my rear tire, that I just put a little clearcoat over to prevent from rusting. Use of the rim protectors kept the wheels safe.

Thanks for reading!]]> For reference, this was done on a 2014 CB1100, so this will only work for tubeless tires. I would also greatly recommend watching the below video as a guide on techniques used to take the tire off and on. 
https://youtu.be/Plx-30HHS2w?si=cooXLyv9DRrpo2ux
Also I did use the shop manual for the CB1100 for steps to remove both tires. Relatively easy procedure for both. 

Using stock tire size, I ordered a Bridgestone T32 for the rear and Pirelli Angel GT for the front. 

Step 1:
Gather required tools. All of these tools were bought from Amazon and quality was great, only about ~$60 in tools.
2-3 Tire Spoons
2 rim protectors
Tire Weights
Soapy water in spray bottle
Balancing stand
Carpet square for working on
Boards for spacing tire on so rotors are not damaged.
Beer (Some may say optional, in my shop its required when working    )

  tire 2.jpg (Size: 245.39 KB / Downloads: 106)

Step 2:
Set new tires somewhere to be warmed up. Since I live in Wisconsin and my motorcycle maintenance occurs during winter while the bike is hibernating, I set the tires by my shop woodstove rotating every 30 min or so. Did not take long for them to get warm and made installation much easier. If you live somewhere warm, setting in the sun is another option.

  tire 3.jpg (Size: 219.22 KB / Downloads: 106)

Step 3:
For me I used my homemade motorcycle lift table ( DIY Motorcycle/ATV Lift ) to get the CB at a better working height, since I was also going to be changing oil and some other routine maintenance/cleaning. The lift table makes it very easy as well to lift the front tire up for changing.

  tire 1.jpg (Size: 254.15 KB / Downloads: 106)
  tire 4.jpg (Size: 254.74 KB / Downloads: 106)

Tire Removal
From here it was a process of following the shop manual for removing the tire, and watching the above YouTube video for techniques. I did end up using a high lift jack to break the bead off the tire which made it very easy as this can be difficult. 

  tire 5.jpg (Size: 141.63 KB / Downloads: 106)
 
Once the tire bead is broke, you can begin removing the tire from the wheel. Using plenty of soapy water, tire spoons, rim protectors and following the above youtube video it was much easier than I thought it would be and I did not scratch the rim.
NOTE: MAKE SURE TO MARK TIRE ROTATION DIRECTION AS THIS IS NEEDED FOR INSTALLING NEW TIRE ON THE CORRECT ORIENTATION!!!!! Use whatever method works for you, I used a paint mark on the rotor as the brake will wipe that off as soon as they get used. 

Tire Installation
After a quick rehydrate of beverage of choice, I took my toasty tire and following the Youtube video got it installed with the same tools used to remove the tire. One recommendation I would use next time is wearing a knee pad since your knees can get sore having to hold the tire in the drop zone while you finish getting the bead onto the wheel. Check that the orientation is correct and that the tire dots are aligned to the valve stem on your wheel. Now the valve stem core can be reinstalled and air added to the tire to set the bead. Both my beads set with ease.
  tire 6.jpg (Size: 120.96 KB / Downloads: 106)

Balancing Tires
Using the balancing stand, I was able to balance both tires. I took my time trying multiple different orientations until the tire would barely move and settled in different locations each time. Good video for reference. https://youtube.com/shorts/y861qjpREvc?s...O9k78T4NSG

From here it was installing the tires back on the CB and wait for spring to come. Oh, and a few more rehydrating beverages while admiring my work. 
This was not a difficult process, and I would encourage anyone thinking of doing this on their own to give it a try. I only had a very very minor scratch on my rear tire, that I just put a little clearcoat over to prevent from rusting. Use of the rim protectors kept the wheels safe.

Thanks for reading!]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14637 Fri, 26 Dec 2025 23:34:48 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14637

“The fluid looks clean.”

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

“It is a two-person job, and I don’t have a helper.”

The harsh reality is simple: stopping confidently is as important as accelerating quickly. Our Owner’s Manual recommends that CB1100 owners change brake fluid every two years or 4,000 miles / 6,500 kilometers. Although this guideline is good, it fails to consider the unique experience of each rider and riding situation. Hence, in some instances, more frequent changes are required.

Although the braking system of our CB1100 is closed (brake fluid flows through a series of cables and an Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) to actuate brake calibers), the fluid reservoir does have a very small vent to allow for thermal expansion and contraction. Without this vent, our brake system could form a vacuum lock and prevent our brakes from working. But this same feature also enables humidity from the air to mix with the brake fluid as it “sits” in the reservoir. That delusion of brake fluid with water lowers the boiling point of brake fluid over time and can cause brake fluid to become less effective. Motorcyclists who drive aggressively also place additional stress on brake fluid.

For me, I drive in an environment and in a manner that merits an annual brake fluid change. Am I a motorcycle hooligan? No. Do I live in an environment that has 95% humidity year-round? No. However, I ride close to ocean where fog is common; I drive on congested highways that require frequent stops at speed; my motorcycle is heavy; etc.

The Nature of Brake Fluid: The Good and The Bad

Brake fluid is a hydraulic fluid that has an incompressible quality. When properly maintained, the fluid in our braking system will enable force to be applied to our brake calibers to stop on demand. But over time, brake fluid can literally boil from hard stops and the extreme heat created when we apply our brakes. If water is introduced into the brake fluid, the boiling temperature is lessoned. This reality can cause air bubbles to form in the fluid from the vapor or steam that is generated when we apply our brakes, lessoning the force the fluid which can be applied to the brake calibers. Although less so now than in the past, brake fluid is also corrosive. Once brake fluid has been compromised with water, it can accelerate the corrosion of brake calibers and brake lines inside our braking system. Brake fluid can damage painted services, plastics, and various metals.

Step 1: Complete Staging for the Brake Fluid Change
When I change my brake fluid, I plan for the worst. At some point,

• I am going to spill brake fluid on my hands, clothing, and shoes.
  
• A hose will become dislodged, and fluid will go places where I do not want it to go.
  
• I will use more fluid than I had anticipated.
  

To address each situation, I make sure I wear clothing, gloves, and boots that are appropriate for the task:



I have plenty of shop towels and water available to clean up a spill:



I wear gloves to protect my skin and do everything I can to limit prolong contact:



I protect the metal and painted surfaces of the motorcycle by using furniture blankets and towels. I place the motorcycle on its center stand and make sure I can easily access all calipers:



I purchase OEM Brake Fluid appropriate for my motorcycle. I plan on using 12 ounces per brake caliber plus another 12 ounces to top off each reservoir (4 12-ounce bottles total):



I make sure I have a torque wrench available to tighten things to the engineering specification:



I use syringes to extract and add fluid to the two brake reservoirs, reducing the risk of brake fluid spilling:



The rear brake reservoir on my motorcycle must be unbolted from the frame because a support strut prevents the top of the reservoir from being removed. I use a small cardboard box to “MacGyver” a platform that can support the reservoir once I unbolt it:



I source plenty of clear hose and recycle some kind of open container I can use to easily see brake fluid as it is bled from the system and replaced with new fluid:



Finally, I make sure I have my standard set of motorcycle tools available, a clean flat service I can use to lay things out that I remove from the motorcycle, and good light so I am not squinting.

Step 2: Remove Rearview Mirror Next to Top Reservoir
To avoid possible damage, I remove the rearview mirror from the handlebars. Because I have a cowl on my motorcycle, I must unbolt a few bolts to flex the cowl screen “forward” so that I can rotate the rearview mirror. I stage the rearview mirror and cowl-screen bolts and nuts on my workbench:







Step 3: Connect a Drain Hose to Left Front Brake Caliber
I attach a drain hose to the left front brake caliber bleeder valve, secure it with a zip tie, loosen it ½ turn with a wrench, cover the brake caliber with shop towels, and place the end of the drain hose into my collection bucket:





Step 4: Remove Existing Brake Fluid from the Top Reservoir and Bleed the Front Brake Calibers
I carefully remove the retaining screws from the top cover. Note that these screws are very “soft.” I take special care not to strip them by using the proper bit and making sure my screwdriver is properly seated prior to twisting:



I then remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm from the reservoir, clean them, and stage them on my workbench:









Using a syringe, I remove the existing brake fluid from the Top Reservoir:



Using the other syringe, I fill the Top Reservoir with new brake fluid. I actuate the front brake continually until I can see brake fluid passing through the drain hose into the collection bucket. I pay close attention to the amount of fluid in the Top Reservoir and the fluid that is passing through the drain hose. I refill the Top Reservoir as necessary. When I add fluid, I close the bleeder valve first. I use a velcro to keep the brake lever depressed while I am filling the Top Reservoir. When it is full, I then loosen the bleeder valve and continue to actuate the brake lever, pushing more fluid and bubbles through the drain hose. This technique helps  to prevent air from flowing backward to the Top Reservoir and creating more bubbles to exhaust:





I focus on color and bubbles exiting the hose. When I see the color is consistent with the color of the new fluid and that no bubbles appear in the drain hose, I keep the brake lever fully depressed, tighten the brake caliber bleeder valve, and then actuate the brake again. If everything is right, the brake lever should be very firm and stiff. If it is not, re-open the caliber bleeder valve and continue to bleed the breaks again until the desired state is achieved. 





I disconnect the drain hose from the brake caliber bleeder valve, remove the towels protecting the brake caliber, and using a moist towel wipe down the brake caliber.

I repeat the same process for the left front caliber.

When I have bled both calibers properly and the front brake lever is firm and actuates properly, I check the Top Reservoir, add brake fluid if necessary, insert the diaphragm, reservoir cap, and reservoir cover and torque the retention screws to 0.8 Nm (0.6 ft-lbs). I then install the rearview mirror and insert the screws the I removed from the front cowl screen. Please Note: If the Top Reservoir ever needs fluid, I bleed my front calibers and check for leaks. I do not "top off" fluid in between sessions where I bleed my front calibers. 

Step 5: Connect a Drain Hose to Rear Brake Caliber
Like the front calibers, I attach a drain hose to the rear brake caliber bleeder valve, secure it with zip tie, loosen it ½ turn with a wrench, cover the brake caliber with shop towels, and place the end of the drain hose into my collection bucket. Next, i remove the tool storage compartment to make room for my make-shift box:



I remove disconnect the mounting bracket for the Rear Reservoir from the frame and relocate it to the make-shift box I inserted to support it. I then remove the Rear Reservoir cap and diaphragm, clean them, and place them on my workbench. 









Next, I use a syringe to remove the old brake fluid from the Rear Reservoir. Necy, I fill the Rear Reservoir with new brake fluid. Because I am definitely not ambidextrous, I actuate the rear brake with my left hand while monitoring the flow of brake fluid and bubbles into my collection bucket. When the fluid is solid and clear in the drain hose, I depress the rear brake lever, hold it, and tighten the rear caliber bleeder valve with a wrench, using my right hand.







Once I have rear caliber bleeder valve tightened, I disconnect the drain hose from the brake caliber bleeder valve, remove the towels protecting the brake caliber, and using a moist towel wipe down the brake caliber. I then re-assemble the Rear Reservoir and attach it to the frame. I first hand-tighten the Rear Reservoir and then torque the bolt to 0.8 Nm (0.6 ft-lbs).





Step 6: Check ABS
After I change the fluid on the front and rear calibers, I check the ABS on my CB1100EX to make sure it is functioning properly. I use the following protocol:

• No ABS error messages are reported on the display when I hard stop.
  
• Brake lever tension for the front and rear calibers are firm and consistent with my prior braking experience.
  
• Braking performance is consistent with my prior experience.
  

I begin my ABS Test first in a parking lot. I look for a slightly wet parking lot or slight gravel surface so I can simulate a real-world scenario when the ABS will actuate:



Using a hard braking technique, I then proceed to a neighborhood street, escalate to a city street, and finally I test at speed on the Interstate. I monitor my display to see if any ABS error messages appear.

Note that even if my ABS has problems, I can still stop my motorcycle. I take special care to ensure that my speed and environment enables me to remain in control of my motorcycle at all times.

Please see ABS conceptual schematic to see how the ABS links the front calibers and rear calibers when my wheel is about to lock up during hard or emergency braking:





I did have one instance when I encountered an ABS problem following brake fluid replacement. Somehow, I trapped some air in the ABS modulator unit following a brake fluid change. Although I did not encounter a ABS Error / Warning, I heard the ABS Module actuating even when the motorcycle was turned off (the ABS Module is located under the gas tank). I concluded the ABS was trying to prime the brake lines. To correct the problem,  I found a slightly slippery parking lot in an office complex, accelerated to 15 miles per hour, and performed several hard stops to intentionally trigger the ABS multiple times. The pulsing action of the ABS pump moved the air out of the modulator. I returned home and listened to see if the ABS Module was actuating. Thankfully, it was not. I then re-bled brake lines until the smallest of all bubbles in CB1100 history was pushed from the ABS to the calipers and into my collection bucket. Life was then truly good.]]>

“The fluid looks clean.”

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

“It is a two-person job, and I don’t have a helper.”

The harsh reality is simple: stopping confidently is as important as accelerating quickly. Our Owner’s Manual recommends that CB1100 owners change brake fluid every two years or 4,000 miles / 6,500 kilometers. Although this guideline is good, it fails to consider the unique experience of each rider and riding situation. Hence, in some instances, more frequent changes are required.

Although the braking system of our CB1100 is closed (brake fluid flows through a series of cables and an Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) to actuate brake calibers), the fluid reservoir does have a very small vent to allow for thermal expansion and contraction. Without this vent, our brake system could form a vacuum lock and prevent our brakes from working. But this same feature also enables humidity from the air to mix with the brake fluid as it “sits” in the reservoir. That delusion of brake fluid with water lowers the boiling point of brake fluid over time and can cause brake fluid to become less effective. Motorcyclists who drive aggressively also place additional stress on brake fluid.

For me, I drive in an environment and in a manner that merits an annual brake fluid change. Am I a motorcycle hooligan? No. Do I live in an environment that has 95% humidity year-round? No. However, I ride close to ocean where fog is common; I drive on congested highways that require frequent stops at speed; my motorcycle is heavy; etc.

The Nature of Brake Fluid: The Good and The Bad

Brake fluid is a hydraulic fluid that has an incompressible quality. When properly maintained, the fluid in our braking system will enable force to be applied to our brake calibers to stop on demand. But over time, brake fluid can literally boil from hard stops and the extreme heat created when we apply our brakes. If water is introduced into the brake fluid, the boiling temperature is lessoned. This reality can cause air bubbles to form in the fluid from the vapor or steam that is generated when we apply our brakes, lessoning the force the fluid which can be applied to the brake calibers. Although less so now than in the past, brake fluid is also corrosive. Once brake fluid has been compromised with water, it can accelerate the corrosion of brake calibers and brake lines inside our braking system. Brake fluid can damage painted services, plastics, and various metals.

Step 1: Complete Staging for the Brake Fluid Change
When I change my brake fluid, I plan for the worst. At some point,

• I am going to spill brake fluid on my hands, clothing, and shoes.
  
• A hose will become dislodged, and fluid will go places where I do not want it to go.
  
• I will use more fluid than I had anticipated.
  

To address each situation, I make sure I wear clothing, gloves, and boots that are appropriate for the task:



I have plenty of shop towels and water available to clean up a spill:



I wear gloves to protect my skin and do everything I can to limit prolong contact:



I protect the metal and painted surfaces of the motorcycle by using furniture blankets and towels. I place the motorcycle on its center stand and make sure I can easily access all calipers:



I purchase OEM Brake Fluid appropriate for my motorcycle. I plan on using 12 ounces per brake caliber plus another 12 ounces to top off each reservoir (4 12-ounce bottles total):



I make sure I have a torque wrench available to tighten things to the engineering specification:



I use syringes to extract and add fluid to the two brake reservoirs, reducing the risk of brake fluid spilling:



The rear brake reservoir on my motorcycle must be unbolted from the frame because a support strut prevents the top of the reservoir from being removed. I use a small cardboard box to “MacGyver” a platform that can support the reservoir once I unbolt it:



I source plenty of clear hose and recycle some kind of open container I can use to easily see brake fluid as it is bled from the system and replaced with new fluid:



Finally, I make sure I have my standard set of motorcycle tools available, a clean flat service I can use to lay things out that I remove from the motorcycle, and good light so I am not squinting.

Step 2: Remove Rearview Mirror Next to Top Reservoir
To avoid possible damage, I remove the rearview mirror from the handlebars. Because I have a cowl on my motorcycle, I must unbolt a few bolts to flex the cowl screen “forward” so that I can rotate the rearview mirror. I stage the rearview mirror and cowl-screen bolts and nuts on my workbench:







Step 3: Connect a Drain Hose to Left Front Brake Caliber
I attach a drain hose to the left front brake caliber bleeder valve, secure it with a zip tie, loosen it ½ turn with a wrench, cover the brake caliber with shop towels, and place the end of the drain hose into my collection bucket:





Step 4: Remove Existing Brake Fluid from the Top Reservoir and Bleed the Front Brake Calibers
I carefully remove the retaining screws from the top cover. Note that these screws are very “soft.” I take special care not to strip them by using the proper bit and making sure my screwdriver is properly seated prior to twisting:



I then remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm from the reservoir, clean them, and stage them on my workbench:









Using a syringe, I remove the existing brake fluid from the Top Reservoir:



Using the other syringe, I fill the Top Reservoir with new brake fluid. I actuate the front brake continually until I can see brake fluid passing through the drain hose into the collection bucket. I pay close attention to the amount of fluid in the Top Reservoir and the fluid that is passing through the drain hose. I refill the Top Reservoir as necessary. When I add fluid, I close the bleeder valve first. I use a velcro to keep the brake lever depressed while I am filling the Top Reservoir. When it is full, I then loosen the bleeder valve and continue to actuate the brake lever, pushing more fluid and bubbles through the drain hose. This technique helps  to prevent air from flowing backward to the Top Reservoir and creating more bubbles to exhaust:





I focus on color and bubbles exiting the hose. When I see the color is consistent with the color of the new fluid and that no bubbles appear in the drain hose, I keep the brake lever fully depressed, tighten the brake caliber bleeder valve, and then actuate the brake again. If everything is right, the brake lever should be very firm and stiff. If it is not, re-open the caliber bleeder valve and continue to bleed the breaks again until the desired state is achieved. 





I disconnect the drain hose from the brake caliber bleeder valve, remove the towels protecting the brake caliber, and using a moist towel wipe down the brake caliber.

I repeat the same process for the left front caliber.

When I have bled both calibers properly and the front brake lever is firm and actuates properly, I check the Top Reservoir, add brake fluid if necessary, insert the diaphragm, reservoir cap, and reservoir cover and torque the retention screws to 0.8 Nm (0.6 ft-lbs). I then install the rearview mirror and insert the screws the I removed from the front cowl screen. Please Note: If the Top Reservoir ever needs fluid, I bleed my front calibers and check for leaks. I do not "top off" fluid in between sessions where I bleed my front calibers. 

Step 5: Connect a Drain Hose to Rear Brake Caliber
Like the front calibers, I attach a drain hose to the rear brake caliber bleeder valve, secure it with zip tie, loosen it ½ turn with a wrench, cover the brake caliber with shop towels, and place the end of the drain hose into my collection bucket. Next, i remove the tool storage compartment to make room for my make-shift box:



I remove disconnect the mounting bracket for the Rear Reservoir from the frame and relocate it to the make-shift box I inserted to support it. I then remove the Rear Reservoir cap and diaphragm, clean them, and place them on my workbench. 









Next, I use a syringe to remove the old brake fluid from the Rear Reservoir. Necy, I fill the Rear Reservoir with new brake fluid. Because I am definitely not ambidextrous, I actuate the rear brake with my left hand while monitoring the flow of brake fluid and bubbles into my collection bucket. When the fluid is solid and clear in the drain hose, I depress the rear brake lever, hold it, and tighten the rear caliber bleeder valve with a wrench, using my right hand.







Once I have rear caliber bleeder valve tightened, I disconnect the drain hose from the brake caliber bleeder valve, remove the towels protecting the brake caliber, and using a moist towel wipe down the brake caliber. I then re-assemble the Rear Reservoir and attach it to the frame. I first hand-tighten the Rear Reservoir and then torque the bolt to 0.8 Nm (0.6 ft-lbs).





Step 6: Check ABS
After I change the fluid on the front and rear calibers, I check the ABS on my CB1100EX to make sure it is functioning properly. I use the following protocol:

• No ABS error messages are reported on the display when I hard stop.
  
• Brake lever tension for the front and rear calibers are firm and consistent with my prior braking experience.
  
• Braking performance is consistent with my prior experience.
  

I begin my ABS Test first in a parking lot. I look for a slightly wet parking lot or slight gravel surface so I can simulate a real-world scenario when the ABS will actuate:



Using a hard braking technique, I then proceed to a neighborhood street, escalate to a city street, and finally I test at speed on the Interstate. I monitor my display to see if any ABS error messages appear.

Note that even if my ABS has problems, I can still stop my motorcycle. I take special care to ensure that my speed and environment enables me to remain in control of my motorcycle at all times.

Please see ABS conceptual schematic to see how the ABS links the front calibers and rear calibers when my wheel is about to lock up during hard or emergency braking:





I did have one instance when I encountered an ABS problem following brake fluid replacement. Somehow, I trapped some air in the ABS modulator unit following a brake fluid change. Although I did not encounter a ABS Error / Warning, I heard the ABS Module actuating even when the motorcycle was turned off (the ABS Module is located under the gas tank). I concluded the ABS was trying to prime the brake lines. To correct the problem,  I found a slightly slippery parking lot in an office complex, accelerated to 15 miles per hour, and performed several hard stops to intentionally trigger the ABS multiple times. The pulsing action of the ABS pump moved the air out of the modulator. I returned home and listened to see if the ABS Module was actuating. Thankfully, it was not. I then re-bled brake lines until the smallest of all bubbles in CB1100 history was pushed from the ABS to the calipers and into my collection bucket. Life was then truly good.]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14610 Tue, 25 Nov 2025 06:49:34 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14610

Incredibly charismatic and insightful motorcyclist. Hope you enjoy his video as much as I do.]]>

Incredibly charismatic and insightful motorcyclist. Hope you enjoy his video as much as I do.]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14524 Thu, 04 Sep 2025 23:10:56 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14524
https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread...#pid270379

For those interested in doing your own install work, this Thread documents the installation process.

Step 1: Receive the Top Case and inspect the box for any sign of damage. All SW-Motech Products are manufactured in Germany and shipped. Check for any impact damage and take pictures if something is found:



Step 2: Carefully unpack the Top Case. Note that SW-Motech is a world-class supplier. Be careful with box cutters and blades. Everything is tightly packed to reduce damage and weight. Be careful while using a blade to open a box or pouch:



Step 3: Inspect the Top Case and all of its components. Review the installation documentation to confirm that everything has shipped and has arrived without damage:





Step 4: Prepare and organize your work area. You will need a torque wrench to complete the installation properly:



Step 5: Review the instruction instructions and organize your parts staging such that your parts align with each step.





Step 6: Open the case and flip up the inner lining so you have clear access to install the form rubber base and stabilizing cover plate. Use a standard driver for feeding the screws and then use a torque wrench to tighten all screws to 2.5 N-m. Follow the instructions carefully to ensure that all spacers are installed properly. Those spacers will ensure a snug fit and prevent noise and vibration. When everything is torque properly, then install the screw covers and return the inner lining to the "inside" of the Top Case.











Step 7: Attach the straps to the top case:



Step 8: Secure the Top Case to your seat or rear carrier using the straps. Note that straps should be snug but not stressfully tight. The Top Case sits well on a CB1100 and will not shift as long as the four corners of the Top Case are securely strapped to the mounting posts on the motorcycle.

]]>
https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread...#pid270379

For those interested in doing your own install work, this Thread documents the installation process.

Step 1: Receive the Top Case and inspect the box for any sign of damage. All SW-Motech Products are manufactured in Germany and shipped. Check for any impact damage and take pictures if something is found:



Step 2: Carefully unpack the Top Case. Note that SW-Motech is a world-class supplier. Be careful with box cutters and blades. Everything is tightly packed to reduce damage and weight. Be careful while using a blade to open a box or pouch:



Step 3: Inspect the Top Case and all of its components. Review the installation documentation to confirm that everything has shipped and has arrived without damage:





Step 4: Prepare and organize your work area. You will need a torque wrench to complete the installation properly:



Step 5: Review the instruction instructions and organize your parts staging such that your parts align with each step.





Step 6: Open the case and flip up the inner lining so you have clear access to install the form rubber base and stabilizing cover plate. Use a standard driver for feeding the screws and then use a torque wrench to tighten all screws to 2.5 N-m. Follow the instructions carefully to ensure that all spacers are installed properly. Those spacers will ensure a snug fit and prevent noise and vibration. When everything is torque properly, then install the screw covers and return the inner lining to the "inside" of the Top Case.











Step 7: Attach the straps to the top case:



Step 8: Secure the Top Case to your seat or rear carrier using the straps. Note that straps should be snug but not stressfully tight. The Top Case sits well on a CB1100 and will not shift as long as the four corners of the Top Case are securely strapped to the mounting posts on the motorcycle.

]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14440 Mon, 07 Jul 2025 04:40:05 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14440
This repair thread focuses on a common repair: paint chip on a brake caliper. The same technique could be applied to your motorcycle’s frame, gas tank, or any other part of your motorcycle that involves metal, primer, paint, and a topcoat.

Before I share my process, please note I am not advocating that every surface of every motorcycle should be pristine. A motorcycle with a 100,000 miles on the clock will most likely tell its story with each accent from the road. There is a beauty there, too. But if you want to have the appearance of your motorcycle to look like it did when it arrived from Japan, here is an option to consider:

Step 1: Determine the color that you are “matching” and procure the primer, paint, and topcoat. For my repair, I used https://scratcheshappen.com/. They have a great online matching tool, fantastic paint, and nice kits complete with applicators:







Step 2: Clean the area thoroughly where the paint chip has occurred. If necessary, use an exacto blade to gently remove hanging paint. Prepare the surface as smooth as possible.

Step 3: Tip your applicator into the primer and get a very small portion of primer. Apply a thin coat of primer to the affected area. When possible, find a leverage point on your motorcycle to steady your hand so you can smoothly apply the primer. Apply the primer with a smooth, gentle “brushing” motion. If the primer is not smooth, wipe it off and try again. We want to gently add layers of primer, paint, and topcoat to cover the paint chip but also make the chipped area appear smooth again, flush with the other surfaces surrounding the paint chip.





Step 4: After the primer has completely dried, follow the same technique for applying paint. Note that some of the Honda Paint Color require “two” paint layers: a base layer with the metallic sparkles and a top paint layer for the finish color. I recommend one base layer and three “light” top layers, allowing each layer to dry before applying another. Good paint tends to naturally settle into the intention caused by the paint chip. When the intention is flush, stop applying layers. The paint I used required 60 minutes between layers. See image below following the 2nd coat of paint:



Step 4: Apply the topcoat layer. Shiny helps hide painter imperfections. See caliber following the topcoat application:



I have touched up other motorcycles by going to Autozone, picking a paint that “matched” what I was repairing, and applying a topcoat afterward. I have also used acrylic nail polish, too, I matched at the CVS Pharamcy.

I used the process outline above to make sure that a better match occurred. I opted to use an applicator for this repair because the paint chip was not prominent. If something different had occurred, I would have used the aerosol option, but that requires a lot more work to tape things off prior to spraying.

If you have a better approach or a technique, please share. I always learn something from every post, particularly those which point out my mistakes or how I made something simple needlessly complex.

Have a great week. David]]>
This repair thread focuses on a common repair: paint chip on a brake caliper. The same technique could be applied to your motorcycle’s frame, gas tank, or any other part of your motorcycle that involves metal, primer, paint, and a topcoat.

Before I share my process, please note I am not advocating that every surface of every motorcycle should be pristine. A motorcycle with a 100,000 miles on the clock will most likely tell its story with each accent from the road. There is a beauty there, too. But if you want to have the appearance of your motorcycle to look like it did when it arrived from Japan, here is an option to consider:

Step 1: Determine the color that you are “matching” and procure the primer, paint, and topcoat. For my repair, I used https://scratcheshappen.com/. They have a great online matching tool, fantastic paint, and nice kits complete with applicators:







Step 2: Clean the area thoroughly where the paint chip has occurred. If necessary, use an exacto blade to gently remove hanging paint. Prepare the surface as smooth as possible.

Step 3: Tip your applicator into the primer and get a very small portion of primer. Apply a thin coat of primer to the affected area. When possible, find a leverage point on your motorcycle to steady your hand so you can smoothly apply the primer. Apply the primer with a smooth, gentle “brushing” motion. If the primer is not smooth, wipe it off and try again. We want to gently add layers of primer, paint, and topcoat to cover the paint chip but also make the chipped area appear smooth again, flush with the other surfaces surrounding the paint chip.





Step 4: After the primer has completely dried, follow the same technique for applying paint. Note that some of the Honda Paint Color require “two” paint layers: a base layer with the metallic sparkles and a top paint layer for the finish color. I recommend one base layer and three “light” top layers, allowing each layer to dry before applying another. Good paint tends to naturally settle into the intention caused by the paint chip. When the intention is flush, stop applying layers. The paint I used required 60 minutes between layers. See image below following the 2nd coat of paint:



Step 4: Apply the topcoat layer. Shiny helps hide painter imperfections. See caliber following the topcoat application:



I have touched up other motorcycles by going to Autozone, picking a paint that “matched” what I was repairing, and applying a topcoat afterward. I have also used acrylic nail polish, too, I matched at the CVS Pharamcy.

I used the process outline above to make sure that a better match occurred. I opted to use an applicator for this repair because the paint chip was not prominent. If something different had occurred, I would have used the aerosol option, but that requires a lot more work to tape things off prior to spraying.

If you have a better approach or a technique, please share. I always learn something from every post, particularly those which point out my mistakes or how I made something simple needlessly complex.

Have a great week. David]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14424 Sun, 22 Jun 2025 23:44:12 +0000 pdedse]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14424
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....ght=Fender

When I did a search within this forum (the .net), I don't find his post.  But the search did bring up others posts that referenced his work.  I've copied and pasted here so that perhaps a search within this forum accesses his work (see below).  

When I changed out tires on my 2017EX, I saw that rust had covered a good deal on the underside.  I've got the time to take this project on and am trying to do what Honda Lover did.

I've got the front fender off, it's easy to do and there was some rust but not too bad.  But I'm having a difficult time understanding one of the first steps to remove the rear fender.  

From the manuel: 
1. Remove batter cover (done)
2. Remove the rubber boot and disconnect the brake/tail light 3P connector



And it's the rubber boot that I'm not seeing.  

This is what my EX looks like: Is that semi-transparent thing the rubber boot?


But the brake/tail light 3P connector doesn't appear to lead to that, but rather down deep into unreachable recesses: that silver thing in the photo below, to the right of the red cable.


Removing the side cover isn't mentioned in the fender removal instructions from the manual, and doing so doesn't really help access.  

Anybody with an EX who has removed rear fender?  Is it the same for '13/'14 models and I'm just missing something?

Thanks.



How  to protect the undercoat on bare metal fenders
Honda Lover: 

If you haven't looked lately, our CB's wheel wells/under the fenders are bare metal and if you've been riding your CB for a few years there is a good chance at least some rust has started to set in. This was a thread discussion some time ago, however, I've listed out a few steps outlining the process for lining our under-fenders with a rubber spray liner that prevents and/or significantly reduces rust build up...
STEP 1. Parts needed for this job are
1. Appropriate tools to remove both fenders. I used a ratchet driver, along with Allen key tip to remove the side panels. Not much in the way of tools required to remove both fenders. Follow your service manual. It is fairly straightforward.
2. Materials list: Undercoating Spray, Rust Remover spray, wire brush, shop rags, painters tape/newspaper for masking, rubber shop gloves, large pieces of clean cardboard for staging areas. Thread locker, WD40 or equivalent, chrome polish and/or wax.
3. I used Rustoleum Rust Dissolver Spray Gel and Rustoleum Undercoating Professional Grade. Both Purchased at Autozone but any good automotive store should stock Rustoleum products. I found both products easy to apply, work with and was very satisfied with the results. 3M makes products like this as well.


4. Remove fender/s from bike. Be sure to set fenders top side down on a smooth/protected surface to avoid scratching the chrome top finish. Advise setting the fenders down on a piece of soft cardboard to prevent abrasion.

5. Using the wire brush firmly brush from side to side on the fenders underside removing any loose rust debris. Use a sand wheel bit with your drill if necessary. Fully rinse with warm water. Leave wet.
6. Apply Rust dissolver liberally to the underside of the fender/wherever rust is present. Ensure to do this in a ventilated area and wear rubber gloves. Be careful not to get the dissolver on painted or finished chrome parts. If you do, be sure to wipe up immediately.

7. Wait 20-30 minutes for remover to begin to dissolve/lift any Rust. 30 minutes worked well for me but this depends on the amount of Rust on the fenders.
8. After letting the fenders under-body soaking for a while, with the spray dissolver still on the fenders, use the wire brush to firmly scrub with short straight strokes on any visible rust. The Rust should fall away. Use more dissolver spray and repeat the process until ALL Rust is removed. The more Rust you remove here, the better the liner will adhere and the better longevity you will experience as far a Rust protection goes. I was able to remove ALL Rust.
9. Rinse with warm water and dry, BOTH VERY throughly. Ensure all the dissolver is off the finish. Allow the fenders to sit for at least 1 hour to ensure the chemical reaction subsides, giving the undercoating spray the best chance to adhere.


10. After thoroughly dry, use painters tape and newspaper to mask the top/ finished chrome sections of both fenders. Use small pieces of tape crumpled up into balls and lodge into any mounting screw holes to protect screw threads from excess liner spray. Take your time here to ensure 100% of the top/finished chrome surface is sufficiently covered.
11. Use 2 small blocks of wood to support both sides of each fender upright, with top/finished side on soft cardboard.
12. Shake Undercoating spray can for minimum 1 minute from the time you hear the mix ball starting to move. Apply in a well ventilated area and far enough from other items to avoid overspray. Hold can 12" from each fender and apply in even lateral strokes slightly overlapping with each pass. Rustoleum advises 2 coats minimum, however I applied 4. I found allowing 6 minutes between applying coats was best. I also found allowing each fender to dry for at least 4 hours before handling was best. (Rustoleum states 1 hour)


13. After removing all masking, wipe down the top chrome surface with a basic cleaner to prevent any glue, oils or other substance from bonding to the chrome surface.
14. Reinstall fenders. I always take this opportunity to treat all threads and hardware with WD40. Note, Honda does advise thread locker blue for front fender hardware in certain areas. Follow service manual torque specs as usual.
15. For you neat freaks out there, I applied 2 coats of chrome polish to each fender to restore the finish to showroom new..



From looking at your CB, no one will know anything was done however going forward you will have the peace of mind that Rust build up will be kept to a minimum depending on when and where you ride! Feel free to add other items or tips you feel I missed...
]]>
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....ght=Fender

When I did a search within this forum (the .net), I don't find his post.  But the search did bring up others posts that referenced his work.  I've copied and pasted here so that perhaps a search within this forum accesses his work (see below).  

When I changed out tires on my 2017EX, I saw that rust had covered a good deal on the underside.  I've got the time to take this project on and am trying to do what Honda Lover did.

I've got the front fender off, it's easy to do and there was some rust but not too bad.  But I'm having a difficult time understanding one of the first steps to remove the rear fender.  

From the manuel: 
1. Remove batter cover (done)
2. Remove the rubber boot and disconnect the brake/tail light 3P connector



And it's the rubber boot that I'm not seeing.  

This is what my EX looks like: Is that semi-transparent thing the rubber boot?


But the brake/tail light 3P connector doesn't appear to lead to that, but rather down deep into unreachable recesses: that silver thing in the photo below, to the right of the red cable.


Removing the side cover isn't mentioned in the fender removal instructions from the manual, and doing so doesn't really help access.  

Anybody with an EX who has removed rear fender?  Is it the same for '13/'14 models and I'm just missing something?

Thanks.



How  to protect the undercoat on bare metal fenders
Honda Lover: 

If you haven't looked lately, our CB's wheel wells/under the fenders are bare metal and if you've been riding your CB for a few years there is a good chance at least some rust has started to set in. This was a thread discussion some time ago, however, I've listed out a few steps outlining the process for lining our under-fenders with a rubber spray liner that prevents and/or significantly reduces rust build up...
STEP 1. Parts needed for this job are
1. Appropriate tools to remove both fenders. I used a ratchet driver, along with Allen key tip to remove the side panels. Not much in the way of tools required to remove both fenders. Follow your service manual. It is fairly straightforward.
2. Materials list: Undercoating Spray, Rust Remover spray, wire brush, shop rags, painters tape/newspaper for masking, rubber shop gloves, large pieces of clean cardboard for staging areas. Thread locker, WD40 or equivalent, chrome polish and/or wax.
3. I used Rustoleum Rust Dissolver Spray Gel and Rustoleum Undercoating Professional Grade. Both Purchased at Autozone but any good automotive store should stock Rustoleum products. I found both products easy to apply, work with and was very satisfied with the results. 3M makes products like this as well.


4. Remove fender/s from bike. Be sure to set fenders top side down on a smooth/protected surface to avoid scratching the chrome top finish. Advise setting the fenders down on a piece of soft cardboard to prevent abrasion.

5. Using the wire brush firmly brush from side to side on the fenders underside removing any loose rust debris. Use a sand wheel bit with your drill if necessary. Fully rinse with warm water. Leave wet.
6. Apply Rust dissolver liberally to the underside of the fender/wherever rust is present. Ensure to do this in a ventilated area and wear rubber gloves. Be careful not to get the dissolver on painted or finished chrome parts. If you do, be sure to wipe up immediately.

7. Wait 20-30 minutes for remover to begin to dissolve/lift any Rust. 30 minutes worked well for me but this depends on the amount of Rust on the fenders.
8. After letting the fenders under-body soaking for a while, with the spray dissolver still on the fenders, use the wire brush to firmly scrub with short straight strokes on any visible rust. The Rust should fall away. Use more dissolver spray and repeat the process until ALL Rust is removed. The more Rust you remove here, the better the liner will adhere and the better longevity you will experience as far a Rust protection goes. I was able to remove ALL Rust.
9. Rinse with warm water and dry, BOTH VERY throughly. Ensure all the dissolver is off the finish. Allow the fenders to sit for at least 1 hour to ensure the chemical reaction subsides, giving the undercoating spray the best chance to adhere.


10. After thoroughly dry, use painters tape and newspaper to mask the top/ finished chrome sections of both fenders. Use small pieces of tape crumpled up into balls and lodge into any mounting screw holes to protect screw threads from excess liner spray. Take your time here to ensure 100% of the top/finished chrome surface is sufficiently covered.
11. Use 2 small blocks of wood to support both sides of each fender upright, with top/finished side on soft cardboard.
12. Shake Undercoating spray can for minimum 1 minute from the time you hear the mix ball starting to move. Apply in a well ventilated area and far enough from other items to avoid overspray. Hold can 12" from each fender and apply in even lateral strokes slightly overlapping with each pass. Rustoleum advises 2 coats minimum, however I applied 4. I found allowing 6 minutes between applying coats was best. I also found allowing each fender to dry for at least 4 hours before handling was best. (Rustoleum states 1 hour)


13. After removing all masking, wipe down the top chrome surface with a basic cleaner to prevent any glue, oils or other substance from bonding to the chrome surface.
14. Reinstall fenders. I always take this opportunity to treat all threads and hardware with WD40. Note, Honda does advise thread locker blue for front fender hardware in certain areas. Follow service manual torque specs as usual.
15. For you neat freaks out there, I applied 2 coats of chrome polish to each fender to restore the finish to showroom new..



From looking at your CB, no one will know anything was done however going forward you will have the peace of mind that Rust build up will be kept to a minimum depending on when and where you ride! Feel free to add other items or tips you feel I missed...
]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14419 Sun, 15 Jun 2025 20:29:14 +0000 Gone in 60]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14419
Sounds like something really only appealing to a ‘13 owner.

Anyone happen to know of a currently available 19 tooth option?]]>
Sounds like something really only appealing to a ‘13 owner.

Anyone happen to know of a currently available 19 tooth option?]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14411 Tue, 10 Jun 2025 15:57:29 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14411
Recently, I replaced the battery in my CB1100 with my first ever motorcycle lithium battery. There seems to be reasonable consensus that lithium is preferred over lead-acid for the following reasons:

Higher energy density: More power with less weight, improving your bike’s overall performance.
Longer lifespan: When properly maintained, a lithium battery can last two to three times longer than a lead-acid motorcycle battery.
Faster charging: Lithium batteries charge much faster, reducing downtime between rides.
Low self-discharge: They retain their charge for longer when not in use, making them great for seasonal riders.

For more details, check out the folllowing link:

https://www.motorcycle.com/products/lith...-realities

So with the upgrade, I also felt the need to up my game on the battery maintenance. To that end, I installed a smart charger to help me realize the benefits listed above. Consensus on smart charges is far less universal, but the most common theme follows:

“Invest in a smart charger equipped with automatic voltage detection capabilities. These chargers can identify the battery’s voltage and adjust the charging parameters accordingly, eliminating the risk of overcharging or undercharging and optimizing charging efficiency.”

See link for more details:

https://www.ufinebattery.com/blog/how-to...e-battery/

I purchased a Duraboost smart charger:

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/du...d=10298742

The installation of my smart charger was straightforward and took about 15 minutes. Pictures follow.

What I plan to do, subject to the validation of the Forum’s Members, is to plug in the smart charger after every ride while I clean the bike, allowing it to charge for an hour or so. I am not inclined to leave it plugged in unattended.

I welcome your comments and thanks for sharing the insights and experiences. David













]]>
Recently, I replaced the battery in my CB1100 with my first ever motorcycle lithium battery. There seems to be reasonable consensus that lithium is preferred over lead-acid for the following reasons:

Higher energy density: More power with less weight, improving your bike’s overall performance.
Longer lifespan: When properly maintained, a lithium battery can last two to three times longer than a lead-acid motorcycle battery.
Faster charging: Lithium batteries charge much faster, reducing downtime between rides.
Low self-discharge: They retain their charge for longer when not in use, making them great for seasonal riders.

For more details, check out the folllowing link:

https://www.motorcycle.com/products/lith...-realities

So with the upgrade, I also felt the need to up my game on the battery maintenance. To that end, I installed a smart charger to help me realize the benefits listed above. Consensus on smart charges is far less universal, but the most common theme follows:

“Invest in a smart charger equipped with automatic voltage detection capabilities. These chargers can identify the battery’s voltage and adjust the charging parameters accordingly, eliminating the risk of overcharging or undercharging and optimizing charging efficiency.”

See link for more details:

https://www.ufinebattery.com/blog/how-to...e-battery/

I purchased a Duraboost smart charger:

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/du...d=10298742

The installation of my smart charger was straightforward and took about 15 minutes. Pictures follow.

What I plan to do, subject to the validation of the Forum’s Members, is to plug in the smart charger after every ride while I clean the bike, allowing it to charge for an hour or so. I am not inclined to leave it plugged in unattended.

I welcome your comments and thanks for sharing the insights and experiences. David













]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14378 Fri, 23 May 2025 07:36:54 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14378
At the time, I owned and loved a Honda Cruiser which was indestructible, perfectly engineered, stylish, and a joy to ride. I never saw a CB1100 on the street and never had a reason to look for something to replace my 2005 Shadow.

But when I saw a 2103 CB1100 for the first time in a custom shop, I was hooked. Out with the cruiser and in with a naked bike. Heritage, engineering, performance, beauty, fantastic motor, and the list goes on.

In time, I found the 2017 CB1100EX I have documented in the Forum. I was able to source all of the OEM parts I wanted except one: a rear luggage rack. I assert the rack perfectly compliments the stock OEM setup aesthetically. Although I am not a tourer, it also has functional benefits for those weekend rides I cherish. Here is how I made it happen in case anyone else is looking to purchase and install a rear rack:

Step 1: I searched the largest used parts suppliers in the United States, Europe and Japan. No luck. I then setup an automated search on eBay. I eventually found a salvaged rear rack in Germany and had it shipped to the United States. It cost 1/3 of the retail price.

Step 2: I unpacked the luggage rack. The packing was suspect, but fortunately the rear racked arrived without any damage. I staged the everything I received. I was confused by the bolts, washers, spacers, and nuts the reseller sent with the rear rack.





Step 3: I downloaded the Rear Rack Installation Guide from the Internet. I did not have all the parts listed but I hoped I could cobble something together that would work:



Step 4: I removed the seat from my motorcycle and draped the gas tank and rear blinkers:



Step 5: I removed the front bolts holding the stock rear rail and installed the rear rack, angling it upward, tightening the bolts hand-tight so I could move the rear rack up and down:





Step 6: I then removed the rear bolts of the stock rear rail, lowered the rear rack, and installed the rear bolts for the rear rack, hand-tight:



Step 7: I used a level to check that the rack was even. Taking into account the slight slop of my garage floor, the rear rack was even:



Step 8: Using a torque wrench, I tightened the four bolts holding the rear rack to the frame. I turned each bolt one full rotation at a time until I heard those wonderful clicks. Before putting the seat back on the motorcycle, I checked all the lights:



Step 9: I put the seat back on the motorcycle and checked the profile with and without luggage:







Over the weekend, I am going to detail the rear rack and gently buff out the few, tiny scratches on the chrome. Life is good.

I hope you find time to ride this weekend. David]]>
At the time, I owned and loved a Honda Cruiser which was indestructible, perfectly engineered, stylish, and a joy to ride. I never saw a CB1100 on the street and never had a reason to look for something to replace my 2005 Shadow.

But when I saw a 2103 CB1100 for the first time in a custom shop, I was hooked. Out with the cruiser and in with a naked bike. Heritage, engineering, performance, beauty, fantastic motor, and the list goes on.

In time, I found the 2017 CB1100EX I have documented in the Forum. I was able to source all of the OEM parts I wanted except one: a rear luggage rack. I assert the rack perfectly compliments the stock OEM setup aesthetically. Although I am not a tourer, it also has functional benefits for those weekend rides I cherish. Here is how I made it happen in case anyone else is looking to purchase and install a rear rack:

Step 1: I searched the largest used parts suppliers in the United States, Europe and Japan. No luck. I then setup an automated search on eBay. I eventually found a salvaged rear rack in Germany and had it shipped to the United States. It cost 1/3 of the retail price.

Step 2: I unpacked the luggage rack. The packing was suspect, but fortunately the rear racked arrived without any damage. I staged the everything I received. I was confused by the bolts, washers, spacers, and nuts the reseller sent with the rear rack.





Step 3: I downloaded the Rear Rack Installation Guide from the Internet. I did not have all the parts listed but I hoped I could cobble something together that would work:



Step 4: I removed the seat from my motorcycle and draped the gas tank and rear blinkers:



Step 5: I removed the front bolts holding the stock rear rail and installed the rear rack, angling it upward, tightening the bolts hand-tight so I could move the rear rack up and down:





Step 6: I then removed the rear bolts of the stock rear rail, lowered the rear rack, and installed the rear bolts for the rear rack, hand-tight:



Step 7: I used a level to check that the rack was even. Taking into account the slight slop of my garage floor, the rear rack was even:



Step 8: Using a torque wrench, I tightened the four bolts holding the rear rack to the frame. I turned each bolt one full rotation at a time until I heard those wonderful clicks. Before putting the seat back on the motorcycle, I checked all the lights:



Step 9: I put the seat back on the motorcycle and checked the profile with and without luggage:







Over the weekend, I am going to detail the rear rack and gently buff out the few, tiny scratches on the chrome. Life is good.

I hope you find time to ride this weekend. David]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14369 Sat, 17 May 2025 03:26:34 +0000 rdprdp01]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=14369
The first thing I did when I left rehab was to mount my motorcycle. It was still comfortable, but the damage to my shoulder prevented me from extending my arm as I had done in the past. I also shrank a bit, literally losing a few inches of height. I still do not understand the physics of it, but eventually the physical therapist simply told me “You lost a couple of inches. Time to let it go because they are never coming back.” The hip and pelvis fractures also caused me to sit slightly differently on the motorcycle, too. My perfect setup was no more.

To reclaim the motorcycle, I ultimately decided I needed to raise the handlebars and pull them back slightly. I toyed with the notion of replacing the handlebars, but I decided that the cabling issues associated with a handlebar swap were too much. More importantly, I liked the stock handlebars and wanted to keep them.

I share this personal, slightly embarrassing story with you because other Members of the Forum may also be facing physical challenges like mine. Whether it is arthritis, injury, or the natural aspects of aging, our size and posture can change as we age. I hope this post may help anyone who is working through something similar or simply wants a slightly more neutral riding position than what a stock setup allows for. Handlebar risers are worthy of consideration.

As I began my research, I quickly learned that handlebar risers are not nearly as regulated as other motorcycle components. Because the handlebars and mounts are so key to handling and safety, I wanted a pair that had been certified by a credible source, were made of the finest materials, and fit the aesthetic of a CB1100. I found my risers in Germany. Here is a link:

https://www.motea-shop.com/en_us/handleb...6eN-LyXWSK

The Motea Risers were ABE Certified and capable of the performing well in a crash scenario. You can always count on the Germans for great engineering:







I was a little nervous installing the risers because I did not want to damage the most beautiful gas tank I have seen on any vehicle. To channel that angst, I compensated by focusing on details. Here is what I did:

Step 1: I staged the risers and assembled the tools I needed to complete the installation:



Step 2: I covered the gas tank with a furniture blanket:



Step 3: I loosely secured the handlebars to the motorcycle with ROK Straps:





Step 4: I removed the top portion of the stock handlebar riser:



Step 5: I cleaned the nasty gunk I uncovered by gentling sanding it with a 120-grit sanding block and then using rubbing alcohol to remove the residue:









Step 6: I attached the new handlebar risers. Note that the torque setting for the bolts is 23 nM (I love hearing the click of torque wrench )









Step 7: I checked all the cables and made sure that everything had the proper clearance. I also “turned” the handlebars far left and far right to make sure there was nothing restricting movement.



Step 9: I measured from the RLETs to the floor on both sides of the handlebar to make sure everything was level:



Step 8: My most crucial step was to reach out to an industry expert: The Ferret. I asked for guidance about the proper way to setup a motorcycle. The Ferret has set up hundreds of motorcycles and very graciously gave me the following advice. Using my iPad and some patience, I did exactly what the Ferret recommended:

“But the main thing is you can't change the relationship between the seat and the foot pegs so you change the relationship of the bars, levers, and mirrors. Starting with the bars. Put the bike on the centerstand if you can. Then loosen the four bolts that hold the handlebars on not all the way, but enough that you can move the bars. Sit on the bike and rotate the bars forward or back until they feel good to you, then tighten the bolts. Next ...  loosen the bolt that holds the clutch lever in place and rotate it down a bit. Again while sitting on the bike rotate the lever up until with straight wrist it just touches the bottom of your outstretched fingers. You don't want to cock your wrist up or down but straight (like superman flying lol) and the lever should just touch the bottom of your fingers. Tighten it down. Repeat with the brake lever. Then adjust the heads of your mirrors for a clear view. They may have to be readjusted a bit once you're off the centerstand. Everything should fall naturally into your hands when sitting on the bike, bars, and levers with straight lines from your shoulders to your fingertips. The main problem these days is the manufacturers like to pin the switches making adjustments difficult. So, there is only so much adjustment in them.”



The combination of the new risers and The Ferret’s skill and kindness has enabled me to return to an effortlessly ride. Thank you, Ferret.

I hope this detailed install process and setup guidance will help others.]]>
The first thing I did when I left rehab was to mount my motorcycle. It was still comfortable, but the damage to my shoulder prevented me from extending my arm as I had done in the past. I also shrank a bit, literally losing a few inches of height. I still do not understand the physics of it, but eventually the physical therapist simply told me “You lost a couple of inches. Time to let it go because they are never coming back.” The hip and pelvis fractures also caused me to sit slightly differently on the motorcycle, too. My perfect setup was no more.

To reclaim the motorcycle, I ultimately decided I needed to raise the handlebars and pull them back slightly. I toyed with the notion of replacing the handlebars, but I decided that the cabling issues associated with a handlebar swap were too much. More importantly, I liked the stock handlebars and wanted to keep them.

I share this personal, slightly embarrassing story with you because other Members of the Forum may also be facing physical challenges like mine. Whether it is arthritis, injury, or the natural aspects of aging, our size and posture can change as we age. I hope this post may help anyone who is working through something similar or simply wants a slightly more neutral riding position than what a stock setup allows for. Handlebar risers are worthy of consideration.

As I began my research, I quickly learned that handlebar risers are not nearly as regulated as other motorcycle components. Because the handlebars and mounts are so key to handling and safety, I wanted a pair that had been certified by a credible source, were made of the finest materials, and fit the aesthetic of a CB1100. I found my risers in Germany. Here is a link:

https://www.motea-shop.com/en_us/handleb...6eN-LyXWSK

The Motea Risers were ABE Certified and capable of the performing well in a crash scenario. You can always count on the Germans for great engineering:







I was a little nervous installing the risers because I did not want to damage the most beautiful gas tank I have seen on any vehicle. To channel that angst, I compensated by focusing on details. Here is what I did:

Step 1: I staged the risers and assembled the tools I needed to complete the installation:



Step 2: I covered the gas tank with a furniture blanket:



Step 3: I loosely secured the handlebars to the motorcycle with ROK Straps:





Step 4: I removed the top portion of the stock handlebar riser:



Step 5: I cleaned the nasty gunk I uncovered by gentling sanding it with a 120-grit sanding block and then using rubbing alcohol to remove the residue:









Step 6: I attached the new handlebar risers. Note that the torque setting for the bolts is 23 nM (I love hearing the click of torque wrench )









Step 7: I checked all the cables and made sure that everything had the proper clearance. I also “turned” the handlebars far left and far right to make sure there was nothing restricting movement.



Step 9: I measured from the RLETs to the floor on both sides of the handlebar to make sure everything was level:



Step 8: My most crucial step was to reach out to an industry expert: The Ferret. I asked for guidance about the proper way to setup a motorcycle. The Ferret has set up hundreds of motorcycles and very graciously gave me the following advice. Using my iPad and some patience, I did exactly what the Ferret recommended:

“But the main thing is you can't change the relationship between the seat and the foot pegs so you change the relationship of the bars, levers, and mirrors. Starting with the bars. Put the bike on the centerstand if you can. Then loosen the four bolts that hold the handlebars on not all the way, but enough that you can move the bars. Sit on the bike and rotate the bars forward or back until they feel good to you, then tighten the bolts. Next ...  loosen the bolt that holds the clutch lever in place and rotate it down a bit. Again while sitting on the bike rotate the lever up until with straight wrist it just touches the bottom of your outstretched fingers. You don't want to cock your wrist up or down but straight (like superman flying lol) and the lever should just touch the bottom of your fingers. Tighten it down. Repeat with the brake lever. Then adjust the heads of your mirrors for a clear view. They may have to be readjusted a bit once you're off the centerstand. Everything should fall naturally into your hands when sitting on the bike, bars, and levers with straight lines from your shoulders to your fingertips. The main problem these days is the manufacturers like to pin the switches making adjustments difficult. So, there is only so much adjustment in them.”



The combination of the new risers and The Ferret’s skill and kindness has enabled me to return to an effortlessly ride. Thank you, Ferret.

I hope this detailed install process and setup guidance will help others.]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=56 Mon, 14 Apr 2025 19:32:44 +0000 Randy B]]> https://cb1100forum.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=56 First thing is to locate and remove the two housing screws that hold the lens in.



Next pivot the lens housing up until you can easily remove it from the bucket.



Do not try and pull it straight out because there is a tab at the top that needs to be disengaged before removal.



Now you need to squeeze the plug to disengage from the bulb. Do not yank as you can break the plug.



Now the housing will be free from the bike and you can see the rubber boot to keep out the moisture (note the "TOP" on it).



Next remove the boot.



Next push down on the right side of the clip and push up to disengage it from the latch.



Now you can remove the bulb from the lens.



If your old bulb is good DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS as this will put your finger oils on it and if the need arises that you need to reinstall it the life will be very short.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Just be careful when you remount the lens into the housing as the tab may fight you just a bit, and watch out for the harness as well so you don't pinch it when you close up. ]]> First thing is to locate and remove the two housing screws that hold the lens in.



Next pivot the lens housing up until you can easily remove it from the bucket.



Do not try and pull it straight out because there is a tab at the top that needs to be disengaged before removal.



Now you need to squeeze the plug to disengage from the bulb. Do not yank as you can break the plug.



Now the housing will be free from the bike and you can see the rubber boot to keep out the moisture (note the "TOP" on it).



Next remove the boot.



Next push down on the right side of the clip and push up to disengage it from the latch.



Now you can remove the bulb from the lens.



If your old bulb is good DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS as this will put your finger oils on it and if the need arises that you need to reinstall it the life will be very short.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Just be careful when you remount the lens into the housing as the tab may fight you just a bit, and watch out for the harness as well so you don't pinch it when you close up. ]]>