Design Problem, Rear Wheel shifting to left

[mockhoff_imp]

Design Problem, Rear Wheel shifting to left

[url=http://s199.photobucket.com/user/mockhoff/media/P_20151201_164238_zpsu2q6oyke.jpg.html]

[url=http://s199.photobucket.com/user/mockhoff/media/P_20151201_164259_zpspyyudbhu.jpg.html]

[the Ferret]

1st pic, have you checked chain adjustment to see if wheel is straight?

It could be offset in your last pic because rear brake disc and caliper need more room than a sprocket.

[mockhoff_imp]

i havn't done anything on the rear wheel after from the dealer.

do u mean the rear wheel is in its right place?

[Lord Popgun]

Looks like it is to me.

[redbirds_imp]

Looking at the center stand feet, the wheel appears perfectly centered between them. The wheel is offset to clear the brake as ferret stated. It would be easy to confirm by putting the bike on center stand and pulling a string from the front tire to the rear on each side to confirm proper alignment.

[Pterodactyl_imp]

i havn't done anything on the rear wheel after from the dealer.

do u mean the rear wheel is in its right place?

Mockhoff, your photograph does look as though the rear wheel may be displaced. So lets try and set your mind to rest.

What do you mean by "after from the dealer"? Has the bike just come back from the dealer? Was the rear wheel removed while the bike was at the dealer? That tyre looks new, was it changed. Were the brakes worked on?

The reason I ask is that there are two spacing collars on the rear axle. A left side collar and a right side collar. They are each of different thicknesses. The left side collar, I think, is wider than the right side collar. It is possible, but unlikely for a number of reasons, that these collars were installed incorrectly ("arse about face", as a bush mechanic would say). But if it can be done, one day it will be done. So let us do a rough check. In the photograph below I have put a straight edge against the outside of the left side wheel nut and have measured the distance to the right side of the driven flange. The distance is approximately 10.35 cm, or 103.5 mm. Do a check. If the distance is significantly different you have a problem. If not then all is hunky dory and you can take the bike for a ride.




Cheers
And I hope this helps you.

[LongRanger_imp]

Wow, that's a clean chain.

Is yours an ABS model like the OP's? If not, just curious if both configurations use the same collars / dimensions.

On second thought, ignore me. It wouldn't make sense for the clearances to be different, although specific components might be different.

Still, that's a heck of a chain.

[Lord Popgun]

On the parts listing, the abs and non abs have the same part numbers. BUT the 2014s are different than the 2013s

You can look here: http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/c/hond...ycle/parts

There are other part sites.

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Wow, that's a clean chain.

Is yours an ABS model like the OP's? If not, just curious if both configurations use the same collars / dimensions.

On second thought, ignore me. It wouldn't make sense for the clearances to be different, although specific components might be different.

Still, that's a heck of a chain.

Clean chain? Yes, the last one (OEM chain) died a horrible death from an aggregation of sand, mud and assorted road grit held together by some chain lube. I am trying to keep my new Z-ring chain in good condition.

I see no difference in the shop manual between ABS and non-ABS collars and other axle parts. However year model may be pertinent. Maybe someone with a '14 model might find the time to help Mockhoff out.

Cheers

And mines a '10 model so the collars may be carved from wood

[Lord Popgun]

Or just look on the part listing. I think the 14 is different from the 13 as they changed the axle size so the hole would be a different dia.