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(04-19-2015, 09:05 PM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: (04-19-2015, 05:55 PM)Django_imp Wrote: (04-18-2015, 12:50 PM)xNE0x_imp Wrote: Then I would suggest changing sprockets to alter your gear ratio. If you are a highway speeds rider, go with a 19 tooth sprocket in the front and a lesser tooth sprocket in the rear. The early cb1110's were geared too short, for sport.
Can you tell more about this topic? I'd be interested in ratio, teeth count and purpose.
Can you tell more about this topic? I'd be interested in ratio, teeth count and purpose.
According to the parts listing, the 2013 is 18T in the front and 39T in the rear.
Same in Europe:
CB1100AD EUROPE 2013 SC65 front: 18T rear: 39T
Hey Cormanus, could you tell about the 2010 Australian model? At least there is another parts No.:
Europe 2013 front sprocket 18T = 23801MAZ000
Australian 2010 front sprocket, ?T = 23801MEJ000
I wonder, if there was really a ratio difference for the earlier CB1100.
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"Sekiya:
On the hardware side, phased valve timing gives the engine its characteristic feel around the 3,000 rpm range. How did you create the engine's personality?
Minami:
Basically, straight-four engines run smooth as long as all four pistons move the same way. My initial thoughts were, to give the engine a deep rumble, we'd have to change the movement a bit.
We ended up shifting the valve timing of cylinders 1 and 2, compared to cylinders 3 and 4, and by continuing to change the gap, found the right combustion out-of-sync feel."
"Korogi:
At around 3,000 rpm, the four-cylinder engine vibrates strongly like a two-cylinder engine, and has a solid rev feel through the chain to the rear tire, giving a strong sense of traction, and finally a purposeful sound.
'Deep rumble' expresses the feel, through the five senses, of an air-cooled four-cylinder engine."
"Sugiura:
Of all the ideas we had for the engine's 'character,' we went ahead with phased valve timing. The engine is based on the CB1300 Super Four, and in the initial prototyping stages, we took its engine and simply modified it to be air-cooled. We had the prototype tested by a number of people, and the majority told us that it didn't feel like an air-cooled engine, that it felt the same as the 1300SF."
"Fukanaga:
I think the bike is as good as it is, because we had people in the factory see, ride, and understand the level of the engine's potential and 'feel' that we wanted.
Once the factory understood us, they started giving us ideas on how to improve the quality of the mass-produced model. This was what happened for the 2014 model."
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I've worn gel-padded gloves for years, ever since I got a sportbike and my hands went numb from the weight of my upper body on my hands. Olympia makes a bunch of different types of gel-padded gloves. I wear the model number 734 in the summer.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0...Caps%2C303
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Gentlemen,
I know anything is possible with enough time and money but would it be possible, for a reasonable sum of money, to do away with the staggered valve timing and make the CB11 motor smoother? What would be involved?
Chip
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If there was an aftermarket cam that was identical to stock except that it did away with the staggered valve timing (and I would assume there would be some reprogramming of the engine control system also), I'd be up for that. There is no motorcycle that is "too smooth" to me and though I love my CB1100, I would love it even more if it were smoother between 3k and 4k rpms.
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Sometimes life runs around in circles:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=4456
this is perhaps a homework for some egine tuner company or a cam maker...Web? Engle? Whatever. There´s a question if engine management (injection and ignition) reflect the stock cam or if "straight cam" would be the cure without other changes necessary.
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I just spoke with Guhl Motors about this and it would be $375 to modify the ECU timing to be consistent across all cylinders. I'm going to price out buying a "spare" Honda cam shaft and sending it to a shop to have them duplicate it except to have consistent valve timing. I would use the one in my bike but I have no idea how long it and I would rather not have my bike down for that period.
I've taken motorcycles apart but that was 9th grade shop class on my bike that didn't work... yes I got it working but that was a long time ago. So if I decide to go this route I'll probably look for a mechanic in my area to do the swap for me.
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I just got my ECU back from Don and maybe I forgot to ask for the no vibration/buzzing upgrade. I certainly got the horespower upgrade. If a hotter cam cones out - I will be installing it.
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Not looking for a hotter cam shaft, just one that doesn't have staggered valve timing.
Does anyone know of any other changes that might be required besides cam shaft and ECU? I can't think of any but then again I'm clueless when it comes to this stuff (but at least I know it).
Looks like it's time for me to at least buy the shop manual for this bike.