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(11-05-2022, 09:16 AM)Cormanus_imp Wrote: I've always understood oil threads are tolerated on this forum because it gives Lord Popgun the opportunity to use the Secret Forum Decoder ring to change his name to Lord Popcorn and for me to use this emoji:
Could be wrong.
He may have just made you do that and let you think it was your understanding all along.
"... These aren't the Droids you're looking for ... "
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If there is one sure fire thing about oil in the last decade or so is the drive to less viscous oils to boost fuel efficiency. You can see plenty of 5W-30, 0W-30 and even 0W-20 oils on the shelved nowadays. You really don't want to go up to a 10W-40 unless your ambient temperatures warrant it. I was riding in 109 Deg F in that Californian heat waves little while back, that warranted a 10W-40 for sure. Me on the other hand just melted.
I have just seen the case of a Triumph owner complaining his bike has started smoking from the exhausts and he was looking for possible reasons, he was burning oil. He had admitted to using a heavier weight oil on his last service and had just changed it back on the current service to the correct lighter specification. It only started smoking with the oil change back to the new lighter weight. I am willing to believe he could have worn his valve guides with repeated poor top end lubrication. I can't be sure 100% that is what has happened, but it is the only variable. The newly changed correct lighter weight oil probably exposed the wear and got through the valve guides and into the combustion chamber. An engine designer doesn't randomly choose an oil weight and diverging from recommended weight is folly.
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(11-06-2022, 04:24 AM)m in sc_imp Wrote: oil weight spec has a lot/most to do with how the motor was constructed (build tolerances, particularly in cold starts) and the environment it is run it. most oil related wear is from people cold starting and revving it right off the bat or just taking off w out a proper or any warmup. valve guides wont cause smoke, stem seals will.. or rings, which i bet was the cause. from what I mentioned above.
10/30 and 10/40 will act the same in a cold start. you would be amazed at to how little oil is really needed to provide proper, or enough, lubrication.
Yes of course. He may well have been providing improper lubrication for his entire ride at temperature.
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(10-22-2022, 04:29 AM)Tev62_imp Wrote: But with what oil filter?..................................................................I'll get me coat.
FRAM Ultra XG6607
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/thread...00.250821/
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(12-01-2022, 08:15 AM)Searcher_imp Wrote: (10-22-2022, 04:29 AM)Tev62_imp Wrote: But with what oil filter?..................................................................I'll get me coat.
FRAM Ultra XG6607
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/thread...00.250821/
FRAM Ultra XG6607
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/thread...00.250821/
Fram? hmmm...didn't several members have scary experiences with fram for the cb?
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Yes they did. Cracks at the weld nut resulting in loss of oil
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(12-01-2022, 01:51 PM)The ferret_imp Wrote: Yes they did. Cracks at the weld nut resulting in loss of oil
I think that was K&N 204s. No nut on the Fram Ultras. I still have about 10 of those K&Ns I'm stuck with. I had one that started weeping at the nut. Thank G-d I was watching it closely due to the warning posted on this forum!
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K&N filters were the ones with problems.
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The K&N problems were due to people tightening up the filter with the nut are they not? K&N specifically tell you not to use it, it is to aid removal only where it doesn't matter if you do any damage. Far too many people on YouTube tightening the crap out of oil filters when hand tight is just fine.