How to tell if has ABS

[ingobohn_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

[Randy B]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

[rjk555_imp]

Yeah, looking at the overall situation I think I have a pretty good case with the store (and then if necessary, a lawyer or just straight to small claims court myself). I think it costs $50 or something to file in small claims court here. Also I should probably try and get a refund on taxes paid on the $1k - around $75 or so.

Thanks all you guys for your help on this. Rolls, later when I thought about it I recalled I've locked up the rear wheel on the street at least a couple times in the past. It's just hard to remember because my riding history has not been continuous

Info on the Small Claims Court process:
First from the [url=http://www.courts.ca.gov/selfhelp-smallclaims.htm]California Courts

Next from [url=http://www.dca.ca.gov/publications/small_claims/]California Dept. of Consumer Affairs.

Good luck.

[Randy B]

He lives in Texas.

[ingobohn_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)
Okay Sir, I understand.
Nevertheless, one time would have been enough, I am not dumb.

[axolotl_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

So how fast can the bike go without the speed limiter? Has top road speed ever been measured without it hooked up?

Yeah, looking at the overall situation I think I have a pretty good case with the store (and then if necessary, a lawyer or just straight to small claims court myself). I think it costs $50 or something to file in small claims court here. Also I should probably try and get a refund on taxes paid on the $1k - around $75 or so.

Thanks all you guys for your help on this. Rolls, later when I thought about it I recalled I've locked up the rear wheel on the street at least a couple times in the past. It's just hard to remember because my riding history has not been continuous

Info on the Small Claims Court process:
First from the [url=http://www.courts.ca.gov/selfhelp-smallclaims.htm]California Courts

Next from [url=http://www.dca.ca.gov/publications/small_claims/]California Dept. of Consumer Affairs.

Good luck.

Thanks. I worked out something with the dealer where they gave me merchandise credit - a new helmet, $200 travel bag, mirrors, a bungee net, and some other stuff plus a gift card. It all came out to about $1080 worth of stuff so I pretty much broke even. Although I will be paying for that bungie net (with interest) for the next several years.

[thumper_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

Why would you need to disconnect a speed sensor for a dyno run? A dyno measures engine power, which is the same at a given RPM of the engine, regardless of what gear the bike is in. Therefore, there's no need to run a vehicle through all of its gears, or to its maximum speed in top gear, to obtain power figures.

If my CBR1000RR is spinning at 12,000 rpm in first gear, it's putting 161 hp to the rear tire. If it's spinning at 12,000 rpm in sixth gear, it's still putting the exact same 161 hp to the rear tire.

I know John Ethell of JETT Tuning didn't run my CBR1000RR on the metal drum of his dynomometer @ 180mph to map the Power Commander.

[rjk555_imp]

He lives in Texas.

Ah, I misinterpreted Post 23, then. I thought he was in California.

Thanks.

[the Ferret]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

Why would you need to disconnect a speed sensor for a dyno run? A dyno measures engine power, which is the same at a given RPM of the engine, regardless of what gear the bike is in. Therefore, there's no need to run a vehicle through all of its gears, or to its maximum speed in top gear, to obtain power figures.

If my CBR1000RR is spinning at 12,000 rpm in first gear, it's putting 161 hp to the rear tire. If it's spinning at 12,000 rpm in sixth gear, it's still putting the exact same 161 hp to the rear tire.

I know John Ethell of JETT Tuning didn't run my CBR1000RR on the metal drum of his dynomometer @ 180mph to map the Power Commander.

Why would you need to disconnect a speed sensor for a dyno run? A dyno measures engine power, which is the same at a given RPM of the engine, regardless of what gear the bike is in. Therefore, there's no need to run a vehicle through all of its gears, or to its maximum speed in top gear, to obtain power figures.

If my CBR1000RR is spinning at 12,000 rpm in first gear, it's putting 161 hp to the rear tire. If it's spinning at 12,000 rpm in sixth gear, it's still putting the exact same 161 hp to the rear tire.

I know John Ethell of JETT Tuning didn't run my CBR1000RR on the metal drum of his dynomometer @ 180mph to map the Power Commander.

Question from the curious. Can Dynos be different? Or maybe some Dyne operators don't know they can be run in one gear? I have watched dyno runs on youtube and they definitely shift up and down thru the gears. I have never seen a dyno machine, and have no interest in what the machine reads on my bike, but I think it is interesting to see how different dynos charts come out with differing results for the same bikes. For our bike there seems to be a 6 or 7 hp difference in peak power reported on different dynos. Or could it be that different individual examples of the same machine can read that much differently? Ie you can get a faster one from the factory or a slower one from the factory?

[Deanohh_imp]

Nice try. The rear wheel sensor IS only for the speedo/odometer......and the speed limiter.

and don't stomp the rear and expect it not to skid.

yes

Quote:......and the speed limiter. no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

Does your sales contract indicate that the bike is an ABS model(i.e. CB1100A or "ABS" in the description)? If that is the case, you should get a positive response from the G.M. He'll know that he'd be screwed if you took it to small claims.

On the other hand, if the contract says you bought a plain CB1100 they could just tell you to go pound sand, knowing that a small claims court is just going to go by what is in the written contract.

The actual sales contract says 'CB1100AD', so I assume A is for ABS, in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). Also I can print out a copy of an email I sent to the finance guy, saying I don't want to take delivery on the bike unless it has ABS. I know he got the email because I called and asked him about it later (prior to delivery).

yes

Quote:in accordance with the owner's manual, and they told me D is the model year (2013). no

The letters at the end indicate the homologation/export country for which the model is issued. E.g. "ED" stands for directly imported European version of the CB1100 or CB1100A.
I don't know what "D" stands for.

According to my owner's manual, the letters stand for...
E = UK
F = France
ED = direct import Europe
EK = South Africa, Ireland, Cyprus

no

The limiter is implemented in the fuel injection system - if the red limit is reached, each second fuel injection is omitted (or each second ignition?).

You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)


You are incorrect sir. You are thinking about the REV limiter, not the SPEED limiter. The speed limiter is directly connected to the speedometer which is controlled by the rear pulse wheel. This has been proven on dynos where the speed sensor was disconnected so that they could get a proper power reading in top gear because with it connected it would shut the engine power down at 112 MPH (180 KPH)

So how fast can the bike go without the speed limiter? Has top road speed ever been measured without it hooked up?

Yeah, looking at the overall situation I think I have a pretty good case with the store (and then if necessary, a lawyer or just straight to small claims court myself). I think it costs $50 or something to file in small claims court here. Also I should probably try and get a refund on taxes paid on the $1k - around $75 or so.

Thanks all you guys for your help on this. Rolls, later when I thought about it I recalled I've locked up the rear wheel on the street at least a couple times in the past. It's just hard to remember because my riding history has not been continuous

Info on the Small Claims Court process:
First from the [url=http://www.courts.ca.gov/selfhelp-smallclaims.htm]California Courts

Next from [url=http://www.dca.ca.gov/publications/small_claims/]California Dept. of Consumer Affairs.

Good luck.

Thanks. I worked out something with the dealer where they gave me merchandise credit - a new helmet, $200 travel bag, mirrors, a bungee net, and some other stuff plus a gift card. It all came out to about $1080 worth of stuff so I pretty much broke even. Although I will be paying for that bungie net (with interest) for the next several years.

So how fast can the bike go without the speed limiter? Has top road speed ever been measured without it hooked up?

when I disconnected the rear wheel sensor for a dyno run it wouldn't go over about 6k rpm in any gear....went into some kind of safe or limp mode. Non abs.