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Break-in is over
#11
(06-12-2014, 07:10 AM)CB4ME_imp Wrote: Seems a lot of CBs have super tight oil filters when purchased. Factory or dealer phenomeon?

My filter was a bee itch at 600 miles. Replacement filter one had a generously lubed ring and hand tightened. When changed again, it seemed a lot tighter than when put on but not as bad as the 1st change.

If I recall correctly from last years threads, the '13s tended to come from the factory with over torqued filters and under torqued drain plugs. Mine followed that trend. I used the Honda cap wrench on a 2 ft. breaker bar to get the filter off. The drain plug seems like it took about a ft./lb. to loosen.

Second time around everything felt just right.
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#12
My 600 miles are in as well and my filter was tight too.
Sorry guys, hard to get excited about changing Oil- or even talking about it. Wait!...No chips or fragments in the Oil, just the typical swirly halo sheen on top. That's kind of exciting.
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#13
(06-12-2014, 09:07 AM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: Todd,

It won't blow up, obvioulsy, but some have reported a tapping or knocking noise or some such that quit when switched back to 10w30. YMMV.

You can read about it in the oil threads. And when you do you will know why ferret said "stand back!" Smile

It was those legendary oil threads that prompted the comment Smile.

Like everyone else, my CB came with too much oil from the factory. Refilled with 3.5 quarts and ran the bike. No leaks. Eventually added the remaining oil and the level is now right at the top line. Cool. I did have a decent number of aluminum flakes in the dregs of my oil pan. My motor must have been assembled on Friday. Beer
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#14
..can we beat them like rented mules now?
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#15
A first for me and a new bike, the oil filter came off easily and the drain plug seemed just right.....Crankcase was overfilled though. My wife's '07 V-strom called for a very large pipe wrench to remove the filter after I had exhausted all other means to remove it including driving a screw driver through the filter case.

This tool will remove the most stubborn oil filters with minimum effort. Get it from NAPA. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...0006475848

A heavy duty strap wrench with 1/2" drive.
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#16
I had read other posts a while back about tight drain plugs and oil filters which is why I posted my findings.
Everything is back together and tightened reasonably so I won't have any problems next time.
My strap wrench easily removes any oil filters I've replaced myself on any of my bikes.
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#17
As I remember from when the forum started a lot of the 13s had loose drain plugs and oil filters like mine. I did try the magnet ring on
my oil filter and unlike my other new bikes got no metal at all on it. One Kawasaki had a lot and had one new Kawasaki that almost
plugged the oil filter with gasket sealer waste. Guess Honda just does it better.
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#18
When removing any oil filter once you start turning the oil filter if it don't turn just keep the same amount of pressure on your wrench and go slow it will break the seal that's holding it. If you bow up on it hard and fast the filter will crush! Always put oil on the new filter with finger next oil change it will come rite off.
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#19
(06-13-2014, 01:35 AM)Ridem32_imp Wrote: When removing any oil filter once you start turning the oil filter if it don't turn just keep the same amount of pressure on your wrench and go slow it will break the seal that's holding it. If you bow up on it hard and fast the filter will crush! Always put oil on the new filter with finger next oil change it will come rite off.

Yep, good to help it make that seal too.
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#20
(06-13-2014, 01:35 AM)Ridem32_imp Wrote: When removing any oil filter once you start turning the oil filter if it don't turn just keep the same amount of pressure on your wrench and go slow it will break the seal that's holding it. If you bow up on it hard and fast the filter will crush! Always put oil on the new filter with finger next oil change it will come rite off.
10-4, always do that to lube the O-ring.
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