Added oil.

[Inhouse Bob]

I've got almost 6,000 miles on my '13 and it still uses oil, but I'm not concerned. I had a '99 Nighthawk 750 that used a little oil until it had 7,000 miles on it, then it stopped. The tolerances for an air/oil cooled engine are different than a water-cooled engine and they take longer to fully break in.

Thanks for the words of comfort. I'll take that and sleep better

[uscgmac_imp]

I took a look at the bottle and it seems I added a bit more than a quarter of a quart, so I was down more than I thought. Dang. I checked the level while holding the bike roughly level rather than on the center stand.
I tend to ride with the RPM in the 3-4k range most of the time. I suppose that might account for some oil loss, though I would hope not. I try hard to never lug it and I don't go over 5k RPM. Well, maybe now and then, but never before lunch
Any thoughts on who might have stolen my oil?

First off I dont see why you wouldnt go over 5k rpm, that doesnt help anything, the bike is made to go through the entire power range in all rpms. I ride up past 5k rpm all the time and never a problem and no significant oil loss. I use a full synthetic. I love to wind the bike up to 6k+ sometimes in third and fourth gear. This is a in line 4 and its made for it. All the power is in the middle and up top, you should enjoy what the bike has to offer. Why you lost that much oil is beyond me. Ive heard if you baby these bikes from the get go and dont rev them up real good from new then you dont fully seat the rings and can get some blow by leading to oil loss. Every new bike ive ever had ive riddin it hard from the beginning and never have an oil loss issue ever. I dont mean beat on it but ride it like you or actually I would usually do.
Actually after 2600 mi its probably no big deal at all, if you used a whole quart i may be concerned but a little top off is really nothing, just dont over fill it. Id rather be down a quarter then over. Especially if your using synthetic you would be fine with a quarter quart down. Dont think you should worry at all. Just dont baby her, twist that wrist and enjoy.[/u]

[the Ferret]

Usagmac.. It wont hurt the bike or not allow the rings to seat to not rev it past 4,000. As a matter of fact in the manual it tells you not to run it past 4,000 rpms during break in (while the rings are seating) but rather to vary the rpms while not running it into the upper rev zone, so whoever told you that is going against every manufacturers I know of recommendations. Consequently once broken in, there is no harm in running it to the red zone on occassion. I haven't had a bike near the red line in probably 20 years and I too suffer no oil loss, or mechanical failures, and I run a fair number of miles every year on my bikes, and rack up some pretty significant mileages on my machines.

A survey here found most riders ride these bikes in the 2500-3500 rpm range. Wont hurt to do that either. 2500 to 3500 translates 65-75 mph in top gear on these bikes, perfect for back road riding where speed limits are in the 45-55 mph range. Even bombing down the freeway at 75-80 will barely get you over 4000 rpms.

Now some guys like to run it up And bang it off the rev liimiter just for the thrill of it, and I understand that, but personally wouldn't recommend it while it is still in the break in stage and neither does the manufacturer. Once broken in however, if one feels the need to rip it, then go for it, but some of us just don't see the need to treat our bikes like that, even if it can take it.

[Inhouse Bob]

Thanks. I do run up above 5k a lot. I was joking in that post ("not before lunch"). I don't romp on it, but I do use the almost full range of rpm. I hate the feeling of lugging along... a little vibration makes me feel like it's ready to run.

With another three inches of snow this morning, it'll be a few days before I get out again. So I'm not burning any oil at all. I'd rather add a little oil every day than spend the hours looking out the window at the bike, under its cover, sheathed in snow

[uscgmac_imp]

Yes, i know thats what they say in the manual for break but thats more for liability and legality stuff. They want people to get used to the bike completely before really getting on it. This is also a subjective theory as is oil threads and such. A propper break in is really just making sure you change up the rpm range frequently and dont stay above that rpm for an extended period of time. I dont recomend riding it like your in the track from day one but getting in it hard for a couple minutes here and there is fine. I took my CB up to 80- 85mph at around 5 to 6k within the first hundred miles for short periods of time. Then up to 100+ for short periods of time after that. This is what I do and Im not saying anyone else should follow suit but i know lots of people in the buisness and have broken in many new bikes and marine engines this way with no issues at all. Just saying dont be afraid to get on it for a little bit.
Ferret, not saying to bounce off the rev limiter either. I just like to expand the perameters a bit more. Lots of bikes are ran and tested before they even leave the factory and you would be suprised how high they rev the bikes without the so called recommended break in period.

[the Ferret]

I understand. (tea for me)

[uscgmac_imp]

Just to add a little to what I originally said so I dont confuse anyone. Their is two ways to break in a motorcycle, 1 being the manufacturs recommended way and the other is to do it a little more aggresive. The second one involves also varying the rpm range but to 3/4 the limit for short periods of time. I did not say to redline it or to bounce off the limiter by any means. Ive brought my bike up to 6k, maybe 6.5 but thats it and for short periods, very short. At 100 in top gear this bike is only turning 4 to 4.5k rpms anyway. So in third and fouth I came up a little past the recommended, by no means is this anything extream. The worst thing you can do is under ride the bike also called lugging or babying the bike. This topic can be googled if anyone would like to see. Like I said before, its subjective to the owner. I treat my bikes like gold, never beat on and always maintained to the fullest. Not beat on or mistreated as Ferret may have suggested. I wrote this because if a bike is under ridden during the break in it is far more detrimental to damaging a new motor.
Motorcycle Engine "Break-in" ProceduresThe "Motorcycle Extremist" Way!by SentinelThe question of proper engine break-in procedure is raised on a regular basis on many forums. People needlessly create new threads in an attempt to gain information on this topic, and without even thinking to use the forum search function and a general internet search tool first. Because of this, and to assist anyone that may need this information, I'm making this document in the hopes to create a place where people can gain a good general understanding for this subject. I will be describing two of the most popular methods of the break-in procedure you are likely to come across. The first I will call "Method A", which is the method provided by your engine manufacturer, and is usually found in the owner's manual for your specific vehicle. The second method discussed and outlined in this document will be referred to as "Method B", and has over recent years become a more widely accepted method for the proper "break-in" of the modern combustion engine. I have been studying about and working with engines for over 30 years, and I have paid especially close attention to the area of engine break-in. I've taken this experience and created this article and break-in procedure to assist anyone that my need this information. I have deliberately left out any extraneous technical details in order to keep this article concise and to the point. If you'd like to study this topic more in-depth just to quench your curiosity, a simple search on the net should get you what you need. I will include a rather well defined set of instructions in this article for what I consider to be proper break-in procedure for the modern motorcycle engine. You may be wondering why proper break-in is so important, and why you should be interested in doing it correctly. In order to answer these questions and to help you gain a better understanding of the what, why, and how of engine break-in, I'll provide a little background information to give you a basic and fundamental understanding on the topic. The What:Every new engine has internal components that must be "worn-in". This "wearing-in" of components is what's known as "break-in". The main components that need to be broken-in/worn-in are the valves, the cylinder bore, and the piston rings. These components must be worn-in so that they mate properly with the surfaces they will interact with over the life of the engine. The Valves -If the valves are not worn-in correctly, they will not seat correctly against the combustion chamber of the cylinder head, which will lead to a loss of compression and proper combustion, allowing blow-by of gases, which causes a loss of power, efficiency, reliability, and longevity. The Cylinder Bore and Piston Rings -The cylinder bore of a new engine is somewhat rough, and the piston rings are not properly mated to the cylinder bore. Some of the cylinder bore roughness must be worn down and smoothed out in order to create just the right amount of seal between the bore and the piston rings. Also the rings must be worn in correctly to mate with the cylinder bores. This process must happen properly in order to create the right kind of seal that will keep the combustion gases separated from the engine oil, and vice versa. Furthermore, if this wearing-in process does not happen correctly, the cylinder bore walls can glaze over, which will cause a lack of lubrication between the cylinder bore and piston rings, leading to overheating, a loss of performance, premature wear, and a loss of reliability. If this glazing does occur, the only way this problem can be corrected is for the engine to be torn down, the cylinder bores re-honed, and new piston rings installed, after which they must of course be broken in correctly, or it must be done all over again until it is. So you see how crucial proper break-in of these components actually is. The Why:Quite simply, these engine components must be properly "worn-in" to ensure good performance, reliability, and longevity; it's really just that simple. If these parts are not worn-in correctly there will be a loss of performance in every way. There will be a loss of power, poor fuel efficiency, increased oil consumption (burning oil), among other problems. The How:Now this is the proverbial million dollar question. Furthermore, this is where the majority of the controversy on this topic comes into play. In short, there are two main philosophies, or methods regarding what's considered to be the proper engine break-in procedure. One I will simply call "Method A", the other I will refer to as "Method B". Method A:By the Book -Follow the manufacturer's recommendations found in your bike's owner's manual. Method B:The "Other" Method (more aggressive) -Break-in the engine using a wider range of varying engine speeds, including intervals of short duration high RPM runs.  Method "A" Example:The following is an excerpt taken from page 50 of the Triumph Daytona 675 owner's manual, which stands out among others I've reviewed as being one of the more reasonable and functionally beneficial manufacturer recommendations I've come across,"Breaking-In:Breaking-In is the name given to the process that occurs during the first hours of a new vehicle's operation. In particular, internal friction in the engine will be higher when components are new. Later on, when continued operation of the engine has ensured that the components have 'bedded in', this internal friction will be greatly reduced. A period of careful breaking-in will ensure lower exhaust emissions, and will optimize performance, fuel economy and longevity of the engine and other motorcycle components. During the first 500 miles (800kilometers):• Do not use full throttle.• Avoid high engine speeds at all times.• Avoid riding at one constant engine speed, whether fast or slow, for a long period of time.• Avoid aggressive starts, stops, and rapid accelerations, except in an emergency.• Do not ride at speeds greater than 3/4 of maximum engine speed. From 500 to 1000 miles (800 to 1500 kilometers):• Engine speed can gradually be increased to the rev limit for short periods. Both during and after breaking in has been completed:• Do not over-rev the engine when cold.• Do not lug engine. Always downshift before the engine begins to 'struggle'.• Do not ride with engine speeds unnecessarily high. Shifting up a gear helps reduce fuel consumption, reduces noise and helps to protect the environment."  Method "B" Example:Break-in the engine using a wider range of varying engine speeds, including intervals of short duration high RPM runs. I think the two best places to do this break-in is either the canyons or the race track. If you live near some canyons, go straight there for your break-in. If you can haul your bike to a race track, that's a great option as well. Do not "lug" the engine around at low RPM at all, and don't cruise around at the same RPM for any real length of time, but rather you should be fluctuating the RPM consistently. Don't even bother riding on the freeway at all for your first 500 miles, unless it's basically just on and right back off. One of the worse things you can do is baby the engine too much during break-in, along with running too hard too fast. You have to find a kind of happy medium between the two. Oil and Oil Filter Change Schedule Summary -  Make sure no synthetic oil is used during the first 1500 miles. Use only regular motorcycle specific SAE 10W – 40 mineral (petroleum) oil that meets or exceeds the API SG and JASO MA2 standards. If you're not sure what oil is in your new bike, change it immediately to this oil, and change the filter as well. While 10w - 40 is best for most, if your particular climate or engine requires something different, then by all means use it. 50 Miles - Change oil and oil filter (Mineral Oil)200 Miles - Change oil and oil filter (Mineral Oil)500 Miles - Change oil and oil filter (Mineral Oil)1500 Miles - Change oil and oil filter (Mineral Oil or Synthetic Oil as Desired)  The following is my own interpretation and idea of what I consider to be a good example and set of guidelines for using Method B. Method B: Using the 2009 Triumph Daytona 675 as an Example If you're breaking in a different bike than the Triumph Daytona 675 used in this example, simply use the initial RPM calculations for the max RPM of your bike, and raise them by the same amounts as our example here. 1.) Before Riding -Ensure that the break-in oil of your choice is in your engine, and double check to make sure that the oil level is correct. Start the engine and allow it to reach proper operating temperature before actually riding the bike. Once the engine is properly warmed up, it's time to take it out for your first break-in ride. 2.) Your First Ride -Make sure you can get the bike out on the road with the lightest traffic possible, and some place where you can open the bike up a bit, at least in the lower gears. Be sure to ride the bike and vary the engine speed from the low-midrange to upper-midrange area your power band while driving for a round-trip total of 20 miles. During the first 10 miles you should be fluctuating between the upper-low to the middle-midrange area of your power band. Basically you'll want to stay in the 1/3 to 1/2 area of your max RPM range. For the 2009 - 2010 Triumph Daytona 675, that has a "real" max RPM of 13,900, which is an indicated 15,000 on the tachometer, this range is from about 4500 to 7500 RPM. Be sure to fluctuate the RPM between these ranges, and use engine breaking as much as reasonably possible.    After you've completed your first 10 miles, park the bike and turn off the engine. Let the bike sit for 20 minutes, and then start it back up. Make sure that the engine as at normal operating temperature, and then proceed on with the last 10 miles of this 20 mile ride in the manor described in the following paragraph. Please note that the reason for this brief cool down is not for the purpose of what would be referred to as "heat cycling", but rather it is an attempt to allow the friction points inside the engine, where there may be a few how spots, to even out their temperatures with the surrounding metal. During the last 10 miles of this 20 mile ride you'll be fluctuating the engine speed as before, but this time raise the top RPM by 1000 to 8,500 RPM. So, you should be keeping the engine between 4500 and 8500 RPM. Remember to use engine breaking as much as reasonably possible during this ride. 3.) Your First Oil and Oil Filter Change -At 20 miles, change the oil and oil filter while the engine is still warm. Inspect the used oil and oil filter for any metal debris. Some metal flakes and or shavings are often found in the used oil and oil filter during this initial break-in stage. Don't be alarmed if there are some, as this is perfectly normal and acceptable. 4.) Your Second Ride -Before starting the engine, first check the oil level and make sure it's where it should be. Now it's time for your second break-in run. After warming the engine up to the proper operating temperature, take the bike out for a 30 mile roundtrip ride. You'll be fluctuating the engine speed regularly as before. During the first 15 miles of this 30 mile ride you'll be varying the engine speed from the mid-midrange to the upper-midrange. So were adding 1000 RPM to our bottom and top RPM range, which brings us to the 5,500 to 9,500 range. After you've completed your first 15 miles, park the bike, turn off the engine, and let the bike sit for 20 minutes. Now start it back up, and make sure that the engine is at normal operating temperature before riding on. Proceed on with the last 15 miles of this 30 mile ride in the manor described in the following paragraph. During the last 15 miles of your 30 mile ride, you'll be fluctuating the engine speed as before. However, this time raise the top RPM by 1000 to 10,500 RPM. So, you should be keeping the engine between 5500 and 10,500 RPM. Remember to use engine breaking as much as reasonably possible during this ride. 5.) Your Second Oil and Oil Filter Change -At 50 miles, change the oil and oil filter while the engine is still warm. Inspect the used oil and oil filter for any metal debris. Some metal flakes and or shavings are often found in the used oil and oil filter during this second stage of the break-in period. Don't be alarmed if there are some, as this is perfectly normal and acceptable. 6.) Riding out the Rest of your Break-in Miles -The remaining break-in miles should continue to be put on with varying engine speeds applied, including brief trips up near redline on occasion. 7.) Your Third Oil and Oil Filter Change -At 200 miles, change the oil and oil filter while the engine is still warm. Inspect the used oil and oil filter for any metal debris. Some metal flakes may be found in the used oil and oil filter during this third stage of the break-in period. Don't be alarmed if there are some, as this is perfectly normal and acceptable. 8.) Continue varying the engine speeds while riding the bike as before. 9.) Your Forth Oil and Oil Filter Change -At 500 miles, change the oil and oil filter while the engine is still warm. Inspect the oil and oil filter for any metal debris. Again, some metal flakes may be found in the oil and oil filter during this forth stage of the break-in period, so don't be alarmed if there are some, as this is perfectly normal. 10.) Continue to vary the engine speeds while you ride as before. At this point you can incorporate some short stints on the freeway if you want to, but keep mixing it up with plenty of street riding. 11.) Your Fifth Oil and Oil Filter Change -At 1,500 miles, change the oil and oil filter while the engine is still warm. Now would be a good time to switch to a full synthetic motorcycle oil if you so desire. Otherwise, just make sure that you use a good quality motorcycle oil; appropriate for your particular engine and circumstances. As always; inspect the used oil and oil filter for any metal debris that may appear. Metal flakes are sometimes found in the used oil and oil filter during this portion of the break-in period. Don't be alarmed if there are some, as this is perfectly normal and acceptable. 12.) For all intents and purposes, your new engine should be considered as fully broken-in at this point, and you may ride the bike as you wish from this time forward. Always be sure to perform the required and appropriate routine maintenance required for your bike.  Conclusiono that's about all there is to it. I hope this article has helped you to understand the break-in process better, and will serve as a good general guideline to use when it's time for you to break-in your new engine.   Copyright 2009 - Motorcycle Extremist - All Rights Reserved.  

[the Ferret]

Now, now... let's be fair and at least accurately quote what I really said if you are going to call me out by name:

You said:

" I did not say to redline it or to bounce off the limiter by any means...

and

..... Not beat on or mistreated as Ferret may have suggested"

Let's read what I said verbatim...

I said:

"Now some guys like to run it up and bang it off the rev limiter just for the thrill of it, and I understand that, but personally wouldn't recommend it while it is still in the break in stage and neither does the manufacturer"....

(and apparently you don't recommend it either...right?) . No where in there did I say you (uscgmac) suggested running to red line or bang it off the limiter ...I said some guys..and reading threads on here, some guys absolutely do have no problem bouncing their bikes off the limiter.

I further went on to say:

"Once broken in however, if one feels the need to rip it, then go for it, but some of us just don't see the need to treat our bikes like that, even if it can take it. "

I also never said" beat on or mistreated"...those are your words, not mine.

I said "some of us just don't see the need to treat our bikes like that"

It just means some of us see no need to run our bikes beyond 5000 rpms, just for the fun of it...ie: no need to "rip it" (which incidentally I also said was ok " after the bike was broken in .)

English, tough language eh?

[uscgmac_imp]

Haha, all good Ferret. I got you. Remember I also said you may have suggested and not stated exactly. Anyway, I really think that the OP should be fine. All engines have their own little quirtky things. His may like oil more than others. Maybe his riding style, location and tyoe of oil and bike set up may contribute. I know my last post with the article attached is very lenthy, it should explain better the point I was trying to make and may help others in the future. If its too lenthy I will understand if you want to either delete it or shorten it. You are a knowledgeble person with lots of help Ferret so I dont want to be on the bad side of things, Lol.

[Cormanus]

uscgmac, that's undoubtedly a fascinating article. As you've posted it, though, it's almost unreadable—a huge block of unformatted text. Anyone interested can find it on the Motorcycle Extremist website, http://www.motorcycleextremist.com/Motor...-Way!.html