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This is the first bike I've owned with large amounts of chrome, and I really don't know how to care for it yet. For the stainless steel headers and exhausts on my previous bikes, I've simply used isopropyl alcohol, with good results...but I'm guessing the chrome on our CBs will need a protectant of some sort. Would you use normal automotive wax? Tips appreciated.
*Edit: By "large amounts of chrome", I guess I'm just referring to the fenders and handlebars. Everything else seems to be just chromed plastic.
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Lemon Pledge works just fine...on the painted parts too. They do make polish especially for chrome.
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I found Simichrome polish in a local motorcycle dealership and tried it out on my Staintune exhaust, it worked great!!!! It didn't need much and all I did was rub it on and used a polishing rag to take it off. In the past, I've tried "never-dull," some "blue magic" stuff, and the "Simischrome Blue-Away" (worked great with #0000 steel wool on the headers) none of those worked for me like the regular Simichrome did on the exhaust. I definitely recommend it.
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Simichrome is great for removing stains and corrosion. Its especially good on the exhaust, which is actually polished stainless steel. I did my headers with it this afternoon, they look brand new. However, I wouldn't use it in the actual chrome parts like the fenders unless you had to; it is an abrasive. I've seen Harley guys polish right through their chrome to the steel underneath.
To protect the chrome use carnuba wax on a regular basis. That'll keep the freshness and flavor sealed in.
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So how about the underside of the fenders, exposed to the constant assault from anything and everything on the road. I won't be using carnuba wax there obviously, but do these areas require any care? Maybe a wipe-down with WD-40 every now & then?
Thanks for the replies all.
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Pro Honda Spray Polish/Cleaner, some people swear by it, I just started using it , seems fine
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/7...4AodgE4AUg
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I've used the Honda spray in the past, and it worked great - on just about the whole bike. It seemed hard to find for a while, but I'll be picking some up now, for sure.
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(07-13-2013, 11:29 AM)Jim21680_imp Wrote: So how about the underside of the fenders, exposed to the constant assault from anything and everything on the road. I won't be using carnuba wax there obviously, but do these areas require any care? Maybe a wipe-down with WD-40 every now & then?
Thanks for the replies all.
Actually carnuba wax works great under the fender, in the exposed frame sections, the lower fork tubes and the tubes from the triple tree up (not the section that is swept by the oil seals). If you put wax on your headlight plastic it won't cloud up, wax the turn signal plastic as well. Smooth painted eengine parts like the starter motor can be waxed. Do not wax the textured plastic like the engine covers. I built up 3-4 layers on all those areas the first week I had the bike; now they're protected and very easy to clean.
Obviously theres lots of other products and preferences. The new Defender spray looks pretty cool, I'm going to try it on the leading sides of the forks and tank.
If you're wondering why I'm such a fanatic about this, I live a few miles from the beach and ride A1A along the beach regularly, which leaves a layer of salt on the bike. Bikes here in FL can corrode fast and their paint and plastic can go to hell in a couple years if you aren't proactive.
(07-13-2013, 11:29 AM)Jim21680_imp Wrote: So how about the underside of the fenders, exposed to the constant assault from anything and everything on the road. I won't be using carnuba wax there obviously, but do these areas require any care? Maybe a wipe-down with WD-40 every now & then?
Thanks for the replies all.
Actually carnuba wax works great under the fender, in the exposed frame sections, the lower fork tubes and the tubes from the triple tree up (not the section that is swept by the oil seals). If you put wax on your headlight plastic it won't cloud up, wax the turn signal plastic as well. Smooth painted eengine parts like the starter motor can be waxed. Do not wax the textured plastic like the engine covers. I built up 3-4 layers on all those areas the first week I had the bike; now they're protected and very easy to clean.
Obviously theres lots of other products and preferences. The new Defender spray looks pretty cool, I'm going to try it on the leading sides of the forks and tank.
If you're wondering why I'm such a fanatic about this, I live a few mikes from the beach and ride A1A along the beach regularly. Bikes here in FL corrode and their paint and plastic can go to hell in a couple years if you aren't proactive.
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Thanks Spaceman (I guess you're near the Kennedy Space Center)? My aunt & uncle live in Cocoa Beach.
Anyway, I'm sadly aware of what a coastal environment can do to metals. Another aunt & uncle have a house right on the beach in Cape May, NJ...and that place takes a beating! There's an outdoor kitchen with a stainless steel grill and refrigerator, but it's not a high enough grade...rusting areas still develop every season. Then, there's everything else, like galvanized nails that don't stand a chance. Electrical boxes. Faucet hardware. Door hinges. Everything that can oxidize will not fare well; it's a terrible maintenance point. I couldn't imagine owning a bike or car in that area, so I fully appreciate why you'd need to be so obsessive about it.
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RejeX: Use it on the cars and applied to the bike and chrome fenders when new. Will see how it holds up preventing rust.
CorrosionX: Been wiping a thin film on the clean rims where they've machined them to be shiny. Also rubbed some on the front facing surafces of the forks, notice how small rocks chip the clearcoat then much later you find spider webs of corrosion growing under the clear coat?
Did that before on a Harley to keep the machined surfaces from pitting, seems to work pretty good. Granted it's not going to be SHINY but the machined surfaces show through and I just apply a new film when I wash the wheels.
Tri-Flow: Read online how the Gulf Coast sport fishermen were using it on their expensive reels and rigging so I got some from the hardware store to squirt some on various nuts, bolts, fittings, hinge, levers, etc. all over my bikes. Figure a bit of protection now will make it easier to remove later when I add farkles or repair stuff.
If you do get some small surface rust one of the best things I've found to rub it out is some common household aluminum foil since its soft enough not to scratch the surface of the chrome plating but abrasive enough to rub off the small rust spots, then you have to apply your protective coating of wax or whatever.
Aloha (in warm humid, ocean air Hawaii),
Huladog
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