Chapter 3
In which Cormanus has his first encounter with the effects of fire and has a beer with Pterodactyl
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[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qE9y4nn7sVhTLD-zkZfgY1MDvoZwxEMb&usp=sharing]Link to Map
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Loaded and ready to roll, Day 2
Dungog is a little more than 600 kilometres from Kyogle and after the first 130 of them I’d have to make a decision about which way to go.
In the 100 kilometres between Casino and Grafton there was evidence of fire, but rain in December meant the regeneration process had started and black and green were the prevailing colours. The fires had been minor; significant blazes and damage had occurred a little further north west near Drake and Tabulam.
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Between Kyogle and Grafton
There had been a significant fire at least on parts of the Grafton-Armidale Road and it was closed for a time. I expected not to be able to take it and to have to spend a good deal of the day on the highway. However, when I reached Grafton, where I stopped for coffee and food, there was no indication the road was closed. I filled up with petrol and decided to ride the usual way through Coutts Crossing, Dundurrabin, Tyringham, Ebor, Armidale, Uralla, Walcha and Gloucester. It’s a lovely road for a ride—both curvy and scenic—so why not take it?
After I passed Coutts Crossing evidence of fires began to appear. This was way more serious than anything I’d previously seen. There was no evidence there’d been rain since the fire. Signs were burned, bridges were gone; but, to my surprise, there was little damage to the bitumen.
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Check out the sign
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There was a bridge somewhere in there. No more.
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From the Armidale-Grafton Road
As I climbed further onto the New England plateau evidence of fire faded, but the evidence of drought was all around. The country was parched. The smoke haze thickened; a reminder that fires continued to burn and could, at any moment escape containment.
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Smoke and dry along Thunderbolts Way
I rode south along Thunderbolts Way through drought and smoke and occasional evidence of fire. A car flashed its lights at me and I realized it was a highway patrol car. Assuming the officer thought I should slow down, I did.
I stopped at the Pioneer Lookout to take photos; a contrast with the last time I was there with noroomtomove.
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July 2019 – It looks like snow, but it’s merely cloud
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January 2020 – Same fence, but there’s nothing to see but smoke
After that, I saw occasional spot fires still burning. There was no evidence of firefighters: they were too busy fighting the serious stuff somewhere else.
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I took the photo above as I crossed the Manning River. It was completely dry. In nearly 10 years that I’ve been going there, I’ve never seen it like this.
I rode on to Dungog and met Pterodactyl. We checked into the hotel and made our way across the road to the local bowls club for a drink and dinner.
We spoke to Aussieflyer. The weather forecast for a significant part of his route promised temperatures in excess of 40ºC and the likelihood of severe thunderstorms. He decided not to ride out to meet us.
Chapter 4
In which Pterodactyl and Cormanus make their way south via an enforced detour
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[url=https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qE9y4nn7sVhTLD-zkZfgY1MDvoZwxEMb&usp=sharing]Link to Map
It was cooler in the morning. We loaded the bikes and set off to get fuel for Pterodactyl and breakfast for us both. We planned to take the Bylong Valley Way, but the morning road update said it was closed due to fire. We rang the Bylong General Store to confirm. The road was closed a kilometre or so to the north but we could pass the roadblock to refuel if necessary.
We plotted an alternative route and made our way to Bylong where we refuelled. The fire to the south wasn’t too serious, but it had jumped the road and crews were working to make sure it didn’t spread.
It’s an ill wind, of course, and the the alternative route we took to Bathurst via Mudgee and Hill End turned out to be a fantastic ride. I’m sure we’ll do it again. It continued to be hot and the dryness of the countryside was depressing.
We made the last part of the ride from Bathurst to Boorowa in excellent time. Leaving Bathurst, a very large Eastern Grey kangaroo appeared from stage right, bounced once in the middle of the road about 20 metres ahead of Pterodactyl and sailed over the fence onto a golf course. Fortunately, he or she, was on its own.
We arrived at the Boorowa Hotel just as the sun passed over the yard arm: the time at which sailors traditionally take a drink. Who were we to argue with tradition?
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At Dungog getting ready to roll
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Even in the very dry conditions, much of the ride was attractive
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At the Boorowa Pub. I was so thirsty and pleased to get there I simply put my helmet on the footpath and headed inside for a drink.