Part II
September 4, 2020
Had two granola bars and an apple from the Fairfield Inn - Neville Island's "pantry" as I loaded my bike for the 250 mile trip to Arlington National Cemetery. I packed another couple of granola bars into my dry bag for a snack on my way. Getting to the cemetery as soon as possible was of paramount importance; certainly more important than seeking out a local diner or even a Bob Evans.
The morning was cool. Cooler than I expected and cloudy with a hint of rain as well. The radar didn't show any weather to be concerned about, really, but I added wind/rain liner as a mid-layer and left my insulating layer (a fairly thick 1/4-zip pullover) strapped to the outside of my backpack for easy access just in case. I finished my breakfast snack, pushed the "Custom Message Button" on my Spot GPS locator which is programmed to send "All is well. Love you, MTC" to my wife and daughter, and headed out.
I set my route to avoid anything resembling rush hour traffic in Pittsburgh so from Neville Island, I picked up I-79 about 2,000 ft from my hotel and directed the CB1100 due south for about 30 miles to Houston, PA. I would grab PA519 to connect me to US40, called National Pike in this part of the country. National Pike would take me to I-68, called National Freeway in this part of the country. National Freeway would take me most of the way to George Washington Parkway, which is just called George Washington Parkway in this part of the country. Arlington National Cemetery, Harry's resting place, is just off of GWP in Arlington, Virginia. I planned only gas and comfort stops for this leg of the trip and, while I wanted to avoid the interstates for most of it, I wanted as quick and as direct a route as possible.
I was on I-79 for about 3.5 minutes before I realized the error of not wearing my wind/rain layer. It was far cooler at speed than I had anticipated and any warmth from the early morning sun was blocked by the mountains and hills to my east and then by the considerable cloud cover. I gutted it out for the 30 miles and stopped for gas at a small full-service (yes, really) gas station on 519. The older woman who was pumping the gas for everyone turned to me and said "You'll have to fill your own, sweetie, I don't fill bikes". So I filled my own. She seemed a bit amused when I finished filling and started stripping down so I could add that 1/4-zip pullover to my layers. Because of how I had my earbuds wired to my Cardo Packtalk and because of the 1/4-zip, I had to remove pretty much everything from the top of my head to my waist except for my t-shirt. I need to remember for future trips that, while the 1/4-1/2 zip pullovers look great, pack a full-zippered jacket/sweater so I don't have to remove my headgear to add/remove a layer.
I recall hitting a little pocket of rain, more like mist, shortly after the wardrobe change. It didn't last long, but the clouds would follow me most of the way through Maryland. As the morning wore on, the temperature did begin to rise despite the clouds. When I finally hit George Washington Parkway for the last few miles of my trip, the sun was out in full and my pullover was going to need to come off soon. Fortunately, I was only uncomfortably warm for about 10-15 minutes of riding (and almost all of the time I was at the cemetery).
George Washington Parkway is a tree-lined road that runs along the Potomac River, delivering motorists to the U.S. capital, Washington, D.C. On its way in, it passes several significant landmarks like the headquarters of the Central Intelligence Agency, the Marine Corps Memorial, and my destination, Arlington National Cemetery (ANC). It is, in my opinion, the best and most beautiful way for a first-time visitor to enter D.C.
Arlington National Cemetery is widely-believed to have been owned by eventual commander of the Confederate States Army, Gen. Robert E. Lee. However, the fact is that it was never owned by him. His wife inherited the estate from her father and Gen. Lee was the executor of his estate. The Lee family abandoned the estate at the start of the US Civil War and it was seized by the United States during that ward as a defensive barrier to attacks on Washington, D.C. Three different forts were constructed on the property during the Civil War. The first military burial took place on May 13, 1864. The original cemetery was 200 acres and, as of 2020, has grown to nearly 700 acres. Harry was originally buried in France, but his remains were moved to ANC at my grandparents' request in 1947. I visited his grave with my younger sister, my parents, and my grandparents in 1974 and again in 1988 with my fiance' Cheryl. My parents were lucky enough to visit his original burial spot in France in the early 1990s. I hope to make that trip someday, too.
I'd like to take a minute to thank Covid-19 and the ensuing pandemic for making my day at ANC extra special. Since access to the access to the cemetery was limited to family members and funeral attendees, there was no line of vehicles at the check-in point. Since they were not running shuttles, family members were allowed to drive (ride) their vehicles into the section of the cemetery where their loved one is buried. Since only family members were allowed, the few people I did encounter treated me with uncommon respect and kindness. My lanyard cam was failing me as I pulled to the main gate or I'd have been able to snap a few majestic shots on my ride in. In fairness, I was also preoccupied with remembering where I put my Family Pass and my ID as I would need both in order to gain entry and it was possible, though unlikely, that they could deny me entry for any reason whatsoever. Turns out that I was worried about nothing. The guards and other workers could not have been more helpful to me.
I urge anyone visiting Washington, D.C. to stop at Arlington National Cemetery. It is beautiful in its solemnity.
The cemetery has a "find a grave" app so, once inside, I was able to navigate directly to Section 12. The navigation took me under McClellan Gate, the original entrance to Arlington National Cemetery. The arched gate is narrow enough that I am not sure that they allow vehicles through it when the cemetery is fully open. At this point, I was wishing I had a chronicler with me to take a picture of me riding through the gate -- would have been a pretty cool addition to "Let's See Your CB1100 Out On The Road!"
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McClellan Gate
Once I found Harry's headstone, I carried his duffel bag to it and unpacked his flag, Bronze Star, and dog tags. I texted my family back in Chicago to let them know I was going to start my Facebook Live broadcast shortly. By this time, it was hot. I don't have a thermometer on my bike, but my guess is that it was in the upper 80s and humid. It was still sunny, but I could see some clouds to my northwest that looked concerning for my ride from the cemetery to my hotel which was, yep, to the northwest. I had a few minutes while my brother got over to our mother's house so she could watch the broadcast. I took off a the extra layers and had a drink of water while sitting next to my bike which was parked in the shade just a couple hundred feet form Harry's grave.
My iPhone overheated a couple of minutes into my broadcast, interrupting it. You will see that the recording is in two parts. I apologize again for my wavering voice, jumpy video, and my general rambling. Please watch them, though, because in between the rambling and the emotion are a few interesting tidbits.
I'd like to clarify a thought I articulated in the video about Blanche and Harry's death. What I meant to say regarding the idea that his life was cut short was "We all have a life to live. I know that some lives are cut short, but what makes a life 'full' or 'complete'? I think that a complete life is one that has love. It may not be romantic love. It might be the love that comes from being selflessly involved in something larger than oneself. I am not certain whether Harry's life would have been full or complete had he died never having met Blanche, but I am 100% sure that he had a full and complete life because he did." (I am not sure that this clarification makes things clearer or not, but I had to try).
After the broadcast, as I was packing up, two things happened that are worthy of note. First, I heard drumbeats far in the distance. It took me a few minutes to realize that it was from a funeral somewhere back in the cemetery. I went back to my business of cooling down and packing up when I heard a loud screech from the opposite direction of the drums. I turned to see an eagle circling over Section 12. We use the word "amazing" a lot these days and the overuse diminishes the stature of the word -- Are even the best french fries actually "amazing"? The sight of the eagle over the cemetery with the sacred beating of drums in the background restored the was re-calibrated the scale of the word in my mind -- truly one of the most amazing experiences in my life.
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On behalf of a grateful nation....
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Across the road from where my bike was parked, I spied this headstone of one of the Tuskeegee Airmen just 15 hours after visiting the group's memorial at Sewickley Cemetery the night before.
I was in no hurry to leave the cemetery and lingered there long enough to see the drummer I had been hearing. He was leading a horse-drawn funeral caisson carrying a flag-draped coffin to its final resting space. It passed out of sight and sometime later, as I was just about to mount up, the three reports of a twenty-one gun salute.
Amazing.
One last Tour of Honor of honor site laid between me and my motel for the night in Leesburg, VA. In another coincidence, the Tour of Honor managers selected the Marine Corps Memorial as one of their 7 Virginia sites for 2020. Coincidental because this memorial, often called "the Iwo Jima Memorial", is located less than a mile from Arlington Cemetery and because Harry's sister, my mother, served as a Marine during World War II.
The memorial is one of my favorites in Washington. It not only remembers the sacrifice and struggle of the Marines on a tiny island, but it seems to symbolize the founding of the United States itself - a small group of people all working with the common purpose to establish a foothold of freedom and democracy.
It being so close to Arlington Cemetery and since I was growing tired of getting choked up, I opted not to broadcast from the Marine Corps Memorial.
When I was in Chester, VA the night before, I opined that my uncle exhibited common valor during his service to our country. Turns out I was not the first person to think that regular Joes, just doing their jobs, made uncommon valor common.
As I think I have exceeded my allotted images for one post, I will create a Part III covering my ride to Leesburg on Friday night and my trip from there to the CB1100 on Saturday.