Day 6 - The Ride Home Pt. 2 - Back Into The Driftless
[url=https://new.spotwalla.com/trip/3cca-11a8100-0fa2/view]Interactive Spotwalla Map - Day 6
We hit the road for our 250 mile ride east to Baraboo at about 9:00am following a in-house hotel breakfast that was leaps and bounds better than the offering of the previous morning. Another beautiful day was ahead of us; we really did get lucky on the weather. Our only encounters with rain were predicted by Offroad with enough advance notice to get us indoors. I don't recall ever having to ride in anything more than a drizzle for the entire week. Frankly, I'm not 100% sure that our good fortune was due to Offroad's ability to forecast -- I actually think he has secret powers to control the weather, possibly developed over years of reading high school science text books. Regardless, we were indeed fortunate to have good weather and good health through the entire week.
The first 40 miles of the day were on 4-lane interstate. The next 30 were on straight and mostly flat 2-lane state and US highway. The remaining 180 miles would take us from an elevation of 1400 ft down to 600 feet along the Mississippi and then up and down across the land that glacial drift ignored; I like to think because it wanted to leave a topography perfect for future motorcyclists to enjoy.
Our first gas stop was in Hokah, MN, some 130 miles from our starting point. This was the longest stretch between fueling of the entire week and it caused more than a little "petrol anxiety" (a phrase coined by my wife) for the two of us with the smaller gas tanks. It may have also caused "bladder anxiety" for those of us with smaller internal "tanks".
Hokah sits on the last bluff we would traverse on the west side of the river (roughly 1200 feet above sea level). 8 miles down the hill on Houston County Highway 18 sits Brownsville, MN at about 600 feet above sea level. Not the steepest descent, but sharp enough to keep our interest with a couple of big turns and plenty of scenic river views along the short route. The Tour of Honor state director picked Veteran's Memorial in Brownsville to be site MN1 this year. I fully understand that what is interesting and fun for me may be a boring nuisance for others, so I am grateful to my riding companions for allowing me to intersperse these stops along the routes. Oh and an update to the stats cited in the DAY 5 portion of this report: As of my visit to MN1 on 7/1/22, I had visited 11 memorial sites in 8 different states for 2022. Photos and reports of subsequent memorial visits will be included in future Seat Time reports.
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Tour of Honor MN1 - Veteran's Memorial, Brownsville, MN
I had scouted out a lunch spot in Lansing, Iowa. Called 'Shep's Riverside Bar & Grill', it checked all the boxes I wanted for a lunch spot - Views of the river, a menu with a decent amount of options, located in a different state than either breakfast or dinner, and a place at which we would arrive sometime close to lunchtime. Having each of a day's three meals in three different states is another thing that I find fun and interesting on motorcycle rides. I know Cheryl likes doing this, too, but I am reasonably sure that the other two on this trek only care what and when they eat with the where falling way down on the list of importance.
As it turned out, the where was a little more important for a different reason; Lansing, IA is not a particularly motorcycle friendly town. Not because of attitude, but because of geography. It was built into to a little bowl at the bottom of a bluff line so most of the roads are graded steeply, sometimes requiring tight left and right turns at intersections plus the dreaded "Steep uphill with a stop sign and right-hand turn at the top" intersection. We all navigated these streets with competence if not precision and arrived at the angled, gravel parking lot safely. I don't recall why, but we decided to pass on Shep's and opted for an eclectic coffee shop next door to it that had sandwiches and a deck overlooking the river. It was unimaginatively, but accurately named "Coffee On The River". Whatever the reason, the dining choice was a good one. The food was good, the views better, and the company delightful.
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Cheryl and me under the sign at Coffee On The River
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View from the deck behind Coffee On The River
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Food with a view from the deck behind Coffee On The River
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Hungry riders on the deck behind Coffee On The River
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Ferret waiting for us on a bench outside Coffee On The River
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Ferret waiting for us on his bike across the street from Coffee On The River
Ferret was the first one out and ready to go. Because of the crazy-ass sloping and gravel parking lot and because there was a group of maybe 10 riders waiting to park in it, he geared up and got out of the way. We all followed suit, but just took a bit longer. No harm. No foul. We retraced part of our route about a mile to the bridge and crossed back into Wisconsin. As soon as we passed the "Welcome to Wisconsin" sign we were greeted by an American Bald Eagle rising up from the culvert that runs along the side of the road. I was unable to get a picture to share with you, but I will have a snapshot in my mind of that moment for a very long time. 'Welcome to Wisconsin" indeed.
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Black Hawk Bridge. The northernmost bridge spanning the Mississippi in Iowa.
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Crossing back.
No roadside attractions or Tour of Honor sites from this point forward. The goal now was to get our host house, Glen and Laura's home in Baraboo, with due haste on halfway decent motorcycling roads. The first third of our ride after crossing the river followed state route 171 with mostly sweeping curves and following a fairly direct west-east line. I thought this would be a good way to make decent time without being boring. I was right. A great "connecting" road as some motorcyclists would describe it. We spent a little time on the less interesting US14, but then hooked up with County Highway N out of Ithaca, WI. N would deposit us on WI-23 for a few miles to County Highway W which would take us the rest of the way into Baraboo.
Glen and Laura have traditionally hosted an Independence Day Weekend get together for our group of friends (motorcyclist and non). The original plan for that weekend was that our friends from Illinois would be arriving on evening of 7/1 and staying through 7/4. One of the reasons -- OK, the only reason -- that Cheryl wanted to be back in Baraboo on that Friday was that she didn't want to miss the arrival of our other friends. Unfortunately, our friends' plans changed for a variety of reasons and none of them would be arriving on Friday. Some were unable to come up at all and others only for Saturday and Sunday. That was a little disappointing to me as I thought Offroad and Ferret would enjoy meeting and socializing with them. Ferret and Offroad would have loaded their trailer and headed south hours before any of our other friends would arrive in Baraboo.
W from 23 to Glen's front door is a scant 20 mile hop. Ferret's first comment upon arrival at the house was "Seems like you saved the best road for last". In fact, it is probably this 20 miles more than the other 200 or so we rode in Wisconsin that week that motivated Ferret to suggest Wisconsin for the 2023 CB1100 rally. W zigs and zags its way through forest, farm, and field. Literally. Toss in a couple of sandstone outcroppings and fresh asphalt and you wind up with a really delightful 20 miles. My personal favorite is a 20mph left-hand turn with a huge red barn on the inside of the corner just a few feet from the road. I have pictures of this barn someplace, but failed to take one on this day.
We arrived at Baraboo Base at about 3:30. Cheryl and I unloaded our bikes in the barn while Ferret and Offroad loaded theirs on to Offroad's trailer for their drive south on Saturday. Glen made "smash burgers" on his new outdoor flattop griddle for dinner. Absolutely delicious. After dinner I had a few minutes to enjoy some whiskey from a local distillery and a cigar while Glen got a fire started in the fire pit.
Around the fire, we talked of riding and roads, of weather and food, of giant fish and appropriately-sized giants; of our health, our friendships, our families. We enjoyed the setting sun and the quiet of the evening -- Friends enjoying each other's company after a great motorcycle journey. They say that any motorcycle trip that ends without injury is a great trip. If that's true, then a trip that ends around a fire pit with good friends and just the right balance of joy and exhaustion is just a little bit better than great.
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How I enjoyed the quiet of the early evening.
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All of us around the fire pit, talking of places where we'd never been and of the next time we'd be together on the road again.
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That is her index finger, I promise you.
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I think this was taken the next day, but I thought it appropriate to this report.
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July 4th upon our return home