2020 Monkey, Vintage Comparison, & Mods

[2017EX_imp]

Hopefully this offering will have something for everyone. Apparently several of the members here have added a Monkey Z125 to their stables, and I am joining that group. As I get older, I know the day will eventually come when it will not be a good idea for me to continue riding a full size motorcycle, and hopefully that will still be several years more down the road. The idea of not being able to ride at all did not appeal to me, so in addition to the Monkey nostalgia and fun factor, I considered it something that could extend the riding experience for me several years beyond when I might have to eventually give up my CB1100EX.

My first motorcycle was a blue 1967 Suzuki K-11 Challenger Sport ( Sport = high, street scrambler style exhaust ) 80 cc. I worked all summer on the graveyard shift at a 24 hour diner washing dishes and busing tables to earn the $350 that the Suzuki cost brand new back then. Here are some spec comparisons between my original Suzuki, and the Monkey 125, S=Suzuk, M= Monkey: Length S= 71.6", M= 67.3" Height S= 38", M=40.6 Wheelbase S= 45.7", M= 46.5" Ground Clearance S= 5.3", M= 6.3" Weight S= 177 Lbs., M= 232 LBS Horse Power S= 8.0 hp/7,500 rpm H= 9.3 hp/7000 rpm. Consequently, a lot is comparable between the two bikes in terms of size, weight, and Hp. I think it goes without saying that I am not comparing quality, both cosmetic and tech, nor performance.

Knowing that this might be my last motorcycle purchase, and since it was sort of in keeping with my humble motorcycle beginnings, I thought it would be cool to make it a blue Monkey. The Monkey for 2019 had yellow as a standard model, while the red was available in standard or ABS. For 2020 ( supposedly available in October or November ) there will be no yellow, blue will be standard, and red will be ABS. Originally I had thought to forego blue in favor of getting the red ABS model, as I assumed it was ABS front and rear like my CB1100. Then I learned that the Monkey has ABS front with IMU based rear. IMU ( Inertial Measurement Unit ) in the Monkey reduces rear wheel lift under hard braking, but does nothing to prevent rear wheel brake lock up. In my case, what I really wanted ABS for was the rear wheel. There have been ( fortunately only ) two times in all the years I have ridden, where I hit the rear brake too hard in a panic stop situation. As we all know, in that instance when the rear wheel locks up, more often than not the rear end fish tails. Both times it happened to me, I was able to regain control, but the pucker factor is unforgettable. Since I could not get what I wanted in terms of ABS, I went back to the more nostalgic color for me, and put down a deposit on and for the arrival of, a 2020 standard Blue Monkey with my dealer. It would have been nice to have full ABS, but up until my 2017 CB1100 I had never had it before, so am not really concerned about it.

For those that already have a Monkey, and those that are considering buying one in the near future, the next bits of info might be of interest. I do extensive research on everything, particularly when a chunk of change is involved. Everyone knows that just about no one leaves a bike absolutely stock, as there are always little ( sometimes large ) mods that speak to individual taste. There is all kinds of stuff available for the Monkey, but I am only going to post two mods that offer a distinct functional improvement, and one that is part of a cosmetic mod.

The shift spindle on our CBs have a small space between the casing and the shifter arm. The Monkey on the other hand has a large space of unsupported spindle between the casing and shifter arm. This can lead to spindle flex, and contribute to false neutrals. The fix is a bolt on support with needle bearings. Here are three different bolt on supports: https://store.hardracing.com/cart.php?ta...ry_id=5367 https://japan.webike.net/products/24041525.html https://japan.webike.net/products/23898314.html Here is a Youtube video showing installation of this type support on a Grom, but it is the same procedure on the Monkey: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMUA-k5s1L4

The second functional mod is related to the shifter linkage. On the Monkey, and Grom which both have the same shift linkage set up, there is a lot of slop. This Youtube video on a Grom ( again the Monkey is the same procedure ) shows the problem and the fix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZflY-WILVjg The video shows drilling to accommodate 8mm rod ends ( Heim Joint ). Another video shows the same mod using 6mm rod ends. So, 6mm = a small bolt in a comparatively large ( 7mm ) hole, or drilling 7mm stock holes out to accommodate an 8mm bolt. Personally I am not ever drilling out stock holes. The solution is using 1/4" rod ends, as 1/4" is in between 6 and 7MM. Kitaco makes a kit available through Webike Japan, but does not say if it is 6 or 8mm: https://japan.webike.net/products/24078103.html I think Summit racing has the best way to go, stainless rod ends, about $20 for both male and female combined:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-gfr4t and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-gmr4t Add stainless bolts, washers, and nylock nuts from the local hardware and you have all the parts. Bolt length will be 1" to 1 1/8". What I did was 1 1/4" length to cut custom length because I will be using stainless acorn nuts with blue locktite. I like button heads but head style is up to the owner. Probably wont find 1/4-28 at the hardware store, but 1/4-20 should be no problem.

Lastly, a cosmetic mod I particularly like. The Monkey has a black plastic "lobster tail" fender extension that many, including me, are not fond of. The solution is a fender elimination kit that deletes the lobster tail, but retains the chrome rear fender. This Youtube video shows installation of a Yoshimura fender elimination kit, which is what I will be using: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aNW5AqiWWE
The problem with the Yoshimura, and most other kits, is that it requires cutting the
connector off the stock wiring, and splicing it onto the kit wiring. With any Mod I do, I like the option of being able to reverse the mod and put everything back the way it was if I choose to. Using this part instead of cutting stock wiring is, I think a better way to go: https://japan.webike.net/products/24065874.html Here is a link to a kit similar to the Yoshimura, that includes the harness adapter: https://japan.webike.net/products/24047274.html and here is a link to the Yoshimura kit at Revzilla: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/yosh...onkey-2019 I included all this stuff about fender eliminators because although cosmetic, I wanted to get the word out that you do not have to cut a perfectly good stock harness just to get the plug, there are better options. The stock license plate lamp, wire and plug, which is only available from Honda as a complete unit, is a $90 part!

I hope everyone finds all this stuff interesting and useful. Below attached, me at 17 on the blue Suzuki in 1967.

[alprider]

my dealer made a version with numberplate sideholder, so you have the full fine view to the cute little fender

[GoldOxide_imp]

2017EX: Anything to keep the fire inside going. Your passion reads well and I hope it will go far. Who knows? There could be a Monkey in my retirement. They maybe look useful to drag along with an RV for local riding.

Very fine photo of that 17 year-old.

[LongRanger_imp]

EX, I've owned my Monkey for about seven months. The biggest difference between it and your K-11 is 4-stroke vs. 2-stroke. The Honda is no powerhouse but that little engine is fairly grunty, and in typical Honda fashion, doesn't mind being wound out. It makes reasonable power throughout the rev range. Anyway, it's a pleasure to ride, but you'll be limited to about 40-45 mph. The other limitation to speed, at least on mine, is the stock tires. They're fine but they don't give a very smooth ride as speed increases. I've seen 51 mph on one particular downhill stretch and it wasn't very confidence-inspiring. I'll likely install street-oriented tires when these wear out.

I can't comment on the shift linkage modification but I would suggest you buy and ride your '20 before worrying about modifying the linkage. Mine shifts as effortlessly and precisely as my CB1100. Absolutely no complaints or concerns. I've never, not even once, hit a false neutral.

Also, don't sweat the lack of rear ABS. The brakes aren't that powerful to begin with and I doubt you could get them to lock up, even in an evasive maneuver.

[2017EX_imp]

Thanks Goldoxide and LoneRanger. I did ride the Monkey at the dealership for about 15 minutes, and did note the extra play in the linkage ( compared to my CB ). Since the Mod I posted is inexpensive, I will probably do it. I dont really care for the rear fender extension, so I will do the eliminator kit, now that I know I dont have to cut the OEM harness to get the plug which I never would have done. Yes, top speed will be limited, but then for what I intend to use it for it does not matter. Fun factor and comparing to back in the day on my suzuki...priceless.

The ABS would have been nice to have had they been front and back, but LoneRanger hit the nail on the head about not sweating that. Mainly, I just wanted to get some of the stuff I discovered out there, so that members already owning, or considering adding this little bike will have some options to play with if interested. If the blue is as nice in the flesh as it looks in the pictures, I will be a very happy camper. I read that the 2020s had been released in Japan this month ( July ) so I am hoping that what I had also read about an October release here in the U.S. is accurate.

[Stichill_imp]

Those rubber boots over the linkage are kinda cheesy; makes it look like there are greased precision joints underneath vs. a bent rod and cotter pins. It's amazing that they'd spend the money on the mold for the rubber cover vs. just using actual rod end joints with purposeful rubber covers. Personally I'd be completely down with replacing that kludge.

I did something similar with my CBR250R. The shift linkage was riveted to the lever, and the rivet loosened and created annoying play.



For the CBR250R application, McMaster-Carr came through. Pricey but you get the good industrial stuff.

Metric Heavy Duty Ball Joint Linkage
M6 x 1 RH Thread Male Stud with Right-Hand Thread Female Shank
McMaster-Carr SKU [url=https://www.mcmaster.com/6275k53]6275K53



Type 18-8 Stainless Steel Flex-Top Expanding Locknut
Hex, M6x1 Thread Size, 10mm Wide, 8mm High
McMaster-Carr SKU [url=https://www.mcmaster.com/94560a060]94560A060
This type of nut is ideal for high-vibration applications.









The improvement in shifting precision was marked. It's a fantastic gearbox and now I can exploit the precision of the engineering that went into it. It makes no sense to build a bike with precision internals and then operate it with sloppy externals!

[GoldOxide_imp]

That is pretty resourceful Stichill. Nice tip.

[2017EX_imp]

Those rubber boots over the linkage are kinda cheesy; makes it look like there are greased precision joints underneath vs. a bent rod and cotter pins. It's amazing that they'd spend the money on the mold for the rubber cover vs. just using actual rod end joints with purposeful rubber covers. Personally I'd be completely down with replacing that kludge.

I did something similar with my CBR250R. The shift linkage was riveted to the lever, and the rivet loosened and created annoying play.



For the CBR250R application, McMaster-Carr came through. Pricey but you get the good industrial stuff.

Metric Heavy Duty Ball Joint Linkage
M6 x 1 RH Thread Male Stud with Right-Hand Thread Female Shank
McMaster-Carr SKU [url=https://www.mcmaster.com/6275k53]6275K53



Type 18-8 Stainless Steel Flex-Top Expanding Locknut
Hex, M6x1 Thread Size, 10mm Wide, 8mm High
McMaster-Carr SKU [url=https://www.mcmaster.com/94560a060]94560A060
This type of nut is ideal for high-vibration applications.









The improvement in shifting precision was marked. It's a fantastic gearbox and now I can exploit the precision of the engineering that went into it. It makes no sense to build a bike with precision internals and then operate it with sloppy externals!

Stichill, my thoughts exactly. Like probably everyone else that might look at the stock linkage, the natural assumption would be that there are real rod ends under those rubber boots. I had no clue, until I stumbled across the Youtube video showing the removal and fix on a Grom. The Monkey uses the same linkage, and the extra play was very noticeable to me when I rode it. Several aftermarket companies have come out with gear shift levers that connect directly to the spindle. The pitch is that the direct connect shift lever eliminates the sloppy stock linkage.

Back in the day it was all direct connect, but I imagine the linkage evolved to isolate the shift lever from the spindle and case to eliminate or reduce damage to those components caused by hits to the shift lever in a crash? Consequently I think the rod ends are a better solution than the direct connect shift lever. Somewhat disappointing and annoying that, as you said, Honda would use a bent piece of 7mm steel rod with washers and cotter pins to use for linkage instead of the rod ends that should have been used from the get go. I suppose the upside is that for those that want to, it can be fixed properly, inexpensively, and easily.

[Stichill_imp]

^ +1

[GoldOxide_imp]

I am wondering now maybe Honda did what they did simply to provide clearance from the shifter foot from rubbing up against a linkage nub, and hence the "rivet" pin design. It may avoid creating a wear spot on the rider's shoe/boot. It does not excuse the play, however, it remains less snatchy and lower cost.