How To do your own 600 mile service

[Flynbulldog_imp]

Thanks for the write-up ferret. Did my own first service today. it was a piece of cake..

[ChipBeck_imp]

In a brand new bike costing over $10,000 why would you use anything other than the manufacturer recommended oil...which is not full synthetic?

I'm just asking.

The recommended oil is 10W30 SJ.

terrydlargo lives in Florida where the temps in summer can be extreme so a higher viscosity oil will retain it's viscosity better. Synthetic oils also have higher shear strength than petroleum based oils, thus, they will last longer before they need to be changed. Any type of oil can be used as long as it meets SJ specs.

terrydlargo lives in Florida where the temps in summer can be extreme so a higher viscosity oil will retain it's viscosity better. Synthetic oils also have higher shear strength than petroleum based oils, thus, they will last longer before they need to be changed. Any type of oil can be used as long as it meets SJ specs.
To each their own I guess, but the only oil going in mine will be Pro Honda GN4. And GN4 is available in 10W40 for hotter climates. Extended oil life in a motorcycle is not something I think we should strive for. The factory change cycle is almost always disregarded in favor of more frequent oil changes. My Tundra was built for synthetic oil, yet it gets changed at half the duty cycle. Pro Honda is specially formulated for cycle engines. These are the guys that own Indy Car racing. I think I'll trust their advice when it comes to my bike. I just have no good reason not to. JMHO.

Gentlemen,

Honda makes and sells three grades of motorcycle oils. GN4 is their least expensive SJ 10-30 oil and it is all petroleum. For about $2 more per quart Honda sells a semi-synthetic, and for $5 more per quart Honda sells their best oil which is HP4S 10-30 SJ. All three were recommended by my dealer for all Honda motorcycles. Honda recommends full synthetic for racing and extreme duty applications and Honda Racing uses only full synthetic in their Indy Car engines and in their motorcycle racing engines as well. I agree with Meowguy that motorcycle oil is probably changed too often to really take advantage of full synthetic oil but for an extra $20 per oil change I would rather use Hondas best SJ oil and that is HP4S although I'd be fine with any of Hondas 3 SJ oils. That said, following Ferret's excellent directions I did my own 600 mile service last night. If I had not read his write up I would have taken my bike to the dealer to have them do it. One thing wasn't clear in the write up and I had to look it up in my owners manual. I didn't know if I was supposed to check the chain slack with the rear tire on the ground or with the rear tire suspended in the air on the center stand. "On the center stand" was what it said in the owners manual. Thanks for your excellent "how to" Ferret.

Chip

[the Ferret]

Sorry Chip, the very first instruction after warm up was to "pop it up on centerstand". All of the service checks were done with the bike while it is up there. I should have been more specific.

Glad the tutorial is helping some folks

[Joola_imp]

600 mile self-service completed tonight. Awesome guide ferret. Like many others, 4 qts of oil put me at a hair below the top line when the bike isn't running. Not sure why the manual specifies 4.1qts w/new filter when nobody seems to have needed the extra .1qt.

[Randy B]

I did.

[silascopathic_imp]

Finished my service last night! Great feeling of accomplishment and thinking about the money saved in the future now that I have all the tools, makes me happy. Thanks "The Ferret!"

[Nano Tech_imp]

What a Comprehensive write-up ..Ferret , Why Don't you write a book - "Motorcycle servicing manual for dummies"

[the Ferret]

What a Comprehensive write-up ..Ferret , Why Don't you write a book - "Motorcycle servicing manual for dummies"

Cause for the most part I am one of the dummies

[hondahoarder_imp]

Just finished my first service to repeat great guide Ferret, and first detail as all I have done since I got it was ride! So had to snap a few pics.

[url=http://s413.photobucket.com/user/Mstarvideo/media/2013%20CB1100/IMG_3577_zpsf9473a10.jpg.html]

One Artsy one
[url=http://s413.photobucket.com/user/Mstarvideo/media/2013%20CB1100/IMG_3579_zpsa3b0a2b3.jpg.html]

[Jim21680_imp]

I did the 600-mile service today, and as expected, no real problems. Filter wasn't absurdly tight, but the drain bolt was unbelievably loose.
Despite my best efforts, I still got some oil on the garage floor, and my clothes. (It's impossible not to!!!)

Lastly, I must admit that I had two very close calls, and lessons learned.

1. Never put the bike on it's center stand when you have the key in the side seat lock. Unknowingly, my leg was placed against the protruding key, and as I levered the bike back, I felt an unfamiliar pressure on the left knee. Looking down, i noticed I had just bent the key about 20 degrees! I couldn't believe it....Luckily, it bent back exactly how it was, and no issues thereafter.

2. Be aware of your surroundings! As I was unscrewing the old filter, for whatever reason, I'm trying to read some of the lettering on the filter. Why? I have no idea. But as my eyes wander upward, I realize my forehead is about 2 inches from a raging-hot header pipe; the bike had been running only a few minutes earlier. It wouldn't have taken much effort to lean forward a little, and that would have completely, thoroughly, absolutely, and positively ruined my day.

Anyway, thanks for the write-up folks, it was a big help