How To do your own 600 mile service

[terrydlargo_imp]

Great job Ferrett, and a "how to" section would be a very welcome addition to the site.

[the Ferret]

Couple things I noticed on re- reading ( besides the spelling and grammatical errors) but cant seem to correct due to editing issues

First when adjusting the rear chain you'll also need a 27 mm wrench or socket and ratchet on left hand side to keep axle from turning

I should have mentioned the fuse puller should be in your tool kit bag

I also forgot to post torque spec for oil filter which was I believe is 19 ft lbs

Also once you've completed the service and run the bike for a few minutes go ack and check to make sure the drain plug and filter are not leaking.

And heres the pic that goes with measuring throttle play. I am using the metric side of the ruler and it shows throttle play at 4 mm ( spec 2-6 mm)

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020008_zpsfbc371fd.jpg.html]

[Scoobynut_imp]

Another Thank You, ferret, great write-up. Will be a good reference for all of us.

[the Ferret]

Nicely done ferret. The only advice I would add is for the first service to be sure to use the oem Honda oil filter. Purchase it separately so that you have a dated receipt. I purchase the oil for this first service separately also in order to have a dedicated receipt, but I use Mobil 1, 4T. After the first service I use Purolator Pure One oil filters. ( $6 at Advance Auto Parts ) I believe the # for the CB11 is PL14610 which is a 3.25" filter. PL14612, which is a 2.5", should also fit. I have not checked this filter to be sure it will fit yet. The next service is still a while away.

I remembered after I made this post that I still had my old Honda oil filter so I checked for proper fit of the Purolator, Pure-One filter. The correct model is PL14612 which is 2.5". There is not adequate clearance between the header pipes to fit the 3.25" model.

Thanks for the updated info ridesalot!

[CA200_imp]

Good job ferret!!!!!!!!!!!!

[the Ferret]

*** IMPORTANT****. It has been mentioned to me that in the 5 th picture down, where I am pointing to the engine oil drain bolt, that as viewed from the side,saying to turn bolt counter clockwise could be construed as turning the bolt from left to right, therby tightening the bolt.

You want to turn the bolt counter-clockwise from head on, as if you were looking at the bolt while lying directly underneath it looking up. Remember the old adage..righty-tighty, lefty-loosey

When using a ratchet, I always check it to see if it is in the loosen or tighten mode by holding onto the socket and working the ratchet a few turns before I ever stick the socket on the bolt, so I know there is no mistake.

Sorry if there is any confusion.

[Lord Popgun]

In the service manual on page 3-15, before installing the new oil filter,

"If the oil filter boss is loose, applay a locking agent to the oil filter boss threads and torque to the specifed torque".

Specified torque is: 13 foot pounds.

The oil filter boss is the threaded tube the filter screws on to.

[the Ferret]

Gosh, I've never seen one of those loose, ever, but I guess it's worthwhile checking. I suppose you'd need 2 big nuts to lock together to check torque on that?

[Lord Popgun]

2 nuts is what I would figure too.

I've heard of it loosening on 4-stroke outboards, but thats about it.

Just thought I'd mention it as its in the manual. Maybe because the oil filter torque spec is so high and they though it might spin the boss out?

[the Ferret]

I guess thats possible. Shouldnt be an issue for me..hand tighten only