10-30 vs 10-40 oil

[jamboa_imp]

Hot summer I am running 20/50 synthetic Motul

[HikerToo_imp]

Hot summer I am running 20/50 synthetic Motul

Hot summer I am running 20/50 synthetic Motul
User manual only gives 10/30 as approved.
I heard the service manual says 10/30 and 10/40 when temps are really hot.
20/50 could allow start-up wear on your engine, which I've heard is where 80% of all engine wear occurs, when you first start the engine and the oil has not had time to circulate.
So, good luck with the 20/50 which can be used on a 20 year old lawn mower to fill in the crude tolerances.

[FUZZY_imp]

Hot summer I am running 20/50 synthetic Motul

Hot summer I am running 20/50 synthetic Motul
User manual only gives 10/30 as approved.
I heard the service manual says 10/30 and 10/40 when temps are really hot.
20/50 could allow start-up wear on your engine, which I've heard is where 80% of all engine wear occurs, when you first start the engine and the oil has not had time to circulate.
So, good luck with the 20/50 which can be used on a 20 year old lawn mower to fill in the crude tolerances.

Hot summer I am running 20/50 synthetic Motul
User manual only gives 10/30 as approved.
I heard the service manual says 10/30 and 10/40 when temps are really hot.
20/50 could allow start-up wear on your engine, which I've heard is where 80% of all engine wear occurs, when you first start the engine and the oil has not had time to circulate.
So, good luck with the 20/50 which can be used on a 20 year old lawn mower to fill in the crude tolerances.
Ran 20/50 synthetic in all my H-D's. To Sturgis and back in August heat! I run 10/30 in my 7 year old Toro.

[Deanohh_imp]

And HDs are low rpm, high torque, pushrod, separate primary/clutch lube, separate tranny, get really hot at times, and dry sump....in many ways a different animal.

[FUZZY_imp]

And HDs are low rpm, high torque, pushrod, separate primary/clutch lube, separate tranny, get really hot at times, and dry sump....in many ways a different animal.

That's right. Much more required yet works great. Ran same oil in tranny, primary n crank.

[ChipBeck_imp]

that doesnt sound right, Honda even makes full synthetic motorcycle 4 stroke 10w30:-

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Syntheti...B0039LF0HK
here is the regular
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-4-Stroke...B0039LFALQ

Gotta love this eBay ad. $6.99 for the oil PLUS $7.00 to ship it to you. That kind of takes the edge off doesn't it.

Chip

[Phat Ham_imp]

that doesnt sound right, Honda even makes full synthetic motorcycle 4 stroke 10w30:-

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Syntheti...B0039LF0HK
here is the regular
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-4-Stroke...B0039LFALQ

Gotta love this eBay ad. $6.99 for the oil PLUS $7.00 to ship it to you. That kind of takes the edge off doesn't it.

Chip

Gotta love this eBay ad. $6.99 for the oil PLUS $7.00 to ship it to you. That kind of takes the edge off doesn't it.

Chip It's $7 shipping for the entire order. So if you order 1 quart it's probably not worth it. If you buy 10 quarts it works out a little better ($7.69 per quart). Buy 15 quarts or more and shipping is free.

[furious_blue_imp]

(not an oil war post !)

With recommended oil viscosities, what matters to me is bearing surface protection and proper cooling. All other subjective considerations are secondary.

So I'll go with what a manufacturer's engineers recommend.

If Honda says for this engine: use 10W-30 or 10W-40, then that is what I'll use.
If Harley says for their big twins: you can use 20W-50 (and others), then that is what I'll use.

Not using what they recommend probably won't result in a blown engine or one that won't go well beyond 100,000 miles and still look pristine when opened up, but rather just one that gets old 'before it's time' because it could have been lubricated/cooled better if the recommended lubricants were used. That's what I choose to believe anyway (since I have no engineering data to back it up :-) ).

[Afastride03_imp]

Gentlemen,

It's really hard to staff an entire dealership with genuine experts who are also honest enough to say "I don't know" when that is the case and then take the time to look it up. I think the majority of motorcycle buyers have done more research and know more about the bike they are looking at than the salesman they are talking to. I don't put any stock in what dealer personnel tell me and I do my own research. Dig this one. The last time I went into Western Honda in Scottsdale to buy parts I went up front to look at bikes like I always do. I told the salesman I wanted to look at some lower handle bars for my CB1100. The salesman looked over at a new CB11 and told me firmly and confidently, "No lower handle bars can be put on the CB1100. The stock bars were designed to clear the gas tank and as the bike ages the bars will "sag" and the existing clearance will diminish." Good grief. The expression - Never argue with an idiot - comes to mind. I bought new lower bars elsewhere and then did the impossible by installing them. So far, my new bars have not "sagged" and hit the gas tank.

Chip

I too have had a similar problem on my bike with my tires sagging at the bottom.
When I took into the dealer to have it checked out he referred me to the section of the owner’s manual addressing the tire inflation procedure. Needless to say when I read this post about handlebars sagging, the preventive maintenance procedure was clear to me. Not specifically mentioned in the owner’s manual it certainly is implied how to handle this issue. I went to Costco and removed one bar end and inflated the bar between 2 – 3 psi. This resulted in a good "Al dente" feel to the bar. I realize this may more be more effort than some want to go to, but personally I feel it’s worth it to prevent having to replace a sagging bar. I will work with Honda America to get an addendum to the owner’s manual to clarify factory recommended procedure and frequency of this maintenance issue. A word of caution, do not over inflate the bar, we’ve all seen the unfortunate results of over inflation of the bars.
Hope this helps.

[Lord Popgun]

Gentlemen,

It's really hard to staff an entire dealership with genuine experts who are also honest enough to say "I don't know" when that is the case and then take the time to look it up. I think the majority of motorcycle buyers have done more research and know more about the bike they are looking at than the salesman they are talking to. I don't put any stock in what dealer personnel tell me and I do my own research. Dig this one. The last time I went into Western Honda in Scottsdale to buy parts I went up front to look at bikes like I always do. I told the salesman I wanted to look at some lower handle bars for my CB1100. The salesman looked over at a new CB11 and told me firmly and confidently, "No lower handle bars can be put on the CB1100. The stock bars were designed to clear the gas tank and as the bike ages the bars will "sag" and the existing clearance will diminish." Good grief. The expression - Never argue with an idiot - comes to mind. I bought new lower bars elsewhere and then did the impossible by installing them. So far, my new bars have not "sagged" and hit the gas tank.

Chip

I too have had a similar problem on my bike with my tires sagging at the bottom.
When I took into the dealer to have it checked out he referred me to the section of the owner’s manual addressing the tire inflation procedure. Needless to say when I read this post about handlebars sagging, the preventive maintenance procedure was clear to me. Not specifically mentioned in the owner’s manual it certainly is implied how to handle this issue. I went to Costco and removed one bar end and inflated the bar between 2 – 3 psi. This resulted in a good "Al dente" feel to the bar. I realize this may more be more effort than some want to go to, but personally I feel it’s worth it to prevent having to replace a sagging bar. I will work with Honda America to get an addendum to the owner’s manual to clarify factory recommended procedure and frequency of this maintenance issue. A word of caution, do not over inflate the bar, we’ve all seen the unfortunate results of over inflation of the bars.
Hope this helps.

I too have had a similar problem on my bike with my tires sagging at the bottom.
When I took into the dealer to have it checked out he referred me to the section of the owner’s manual addressing the tire inflation procedure. Needless to say when I read this post about handlebars sagging, the preventive maintenance procedure was clear to me. Not specifically mentioned in the owner’s manual it certainly is implied how to handle this issue. I went to Costco and removed one bar end and inflated the bar between 2 – 3 psi. This resulted in a good "Al dente" feel to the bar. I realize this may more be more effort than some want to go to, but personally I feel it’s worth it to prevent having to replace a sagging bar. I will work with Honda America to get an addendum to the owner’s manual to clarify factory recommended procedure and frequency of this maintenance issue. A word of caution, do not over inflate the bar, we’ve all seen the unfortunate results of over inflation of the bars.
Hope this helps.
You should only use dry nitrogen to pressurize the bars as you do not want to 1. have ANY corrosion inside them, and 2. if any moisture condenses on one side, it could cause an imbalance and make the bike hard to handle.

edit to correct grammar