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I did not like my stopping power on my CB1100 so i bought some SBS rear brake pads. The fronts are great. I got the 657HF Ceramic pads. they are a lot better than stock. Part# 17220742 Like I said, they are a lot better! I have a small squeling sound, but I believe IT will work it self out. I am braking them in now. My parts guy said that our back brakes are made that way so we will not lock up the rear end. After all, we have a small rear tire on those bikes! I will keep everyone informed. God Bless..
Jayimpalaman
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My front brakes are fantastic as is, and I hope my rear brake improves after deglazing this week. There is no way in the world Honda meant for my rear brake to be as ineffective as it is.
I have heard pros and cons (of course) on going to high performance pads. The discs on the CB 1100 seem really thin to me. I'd be hesitant to install anything that "might" exacerbate rotor wear, however I am not knowledgable enough to know if ceramic pads would do that. The only thing people seem to agree on is that they increase bite and make less dust.
Please keep us informed as to how it goes with yours.
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(07-28-2013, 05:23 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: My front brakes are fantastic as is, and I hope my rear brake improves after deglazing this week. There is no way in the world Honda meant for my rear brake to be as ineffective as it is.
I have heard pros and cons (of course) on going to high performance pads. The discs on the CB 1100 seem really thin to me. I'd be hesitant to install anything that "might" exacerbate rotor wear, however I am not knowledgable enough to know if ceramic pads would do that. The only thing people seem to agree on is that they increase bite and make less dust.
Please keep us informed as to how it goes with yours.
Don't know about on bikes but on a truck they create more heat. Not good for rotors. Great performance and no dust though.
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(07-28-2013, 10:20 AM)FUZZY_imp Wrote: (07-28-2013, 05:23 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: My front brakes are fantastic as is, and I hope my rear brake improves after deglazing this week. There is no way in the world Honda meant for my rear brake to be as ineffective as it is.
I have heard pros and cons (of course) on going to high performance pads. The discs on the CB 1100 seem really thin to me. I'd be hesitant to install anything that "might" exacerbate rotor wear, however I am not knowledgable enough to know if ceramic pads would do that. The only thing people seem to agree on is that they increase bite and make less dust.
Please keep us informed as to how it goes with yours.
Don't know about on bikes but on a truck they create more heat. Not good for rotors. Great performance and no dust though.
That's news to me. I've used ceramic brakes exclusively on my truck for the last 2 brake services and haven't noticed anything that would indicate a hot brake issue.
Also I was in the parts business for years and learned a lot about different brake materials and this is the first time I have ever heard about ceramic brakes running hotter that other materials.
The base ceramic material is designed to not create all that black brake dust and to be quieter that standard semi-metallic brake material and ceramic, as a function of the material, will actually dissipate heat quicker than a standard material.
Something else to consider is that not all ceramic material is created equal. There are different amounts of ceramic in different manufacturers pads and thus creating different levels of performance. It can get quite complicated to say the least.
Now when you are talking about totally ceramic brakes where the rotors are made from a ceramic material (mostly only found in race cars and SOME very high end sports cars) then you can actually see the rotors glow under hard braking, but that is a function of the heat dissipation and not overheating. Those braking systems actually use the heat to produce more friction and thus more stopping power, not at all how street ceramic brakes on cast iron rotors are designed to work together. You and as little heat as possible on an iron rotor for the best possible braking and that's why you see vented, slotted and drilled rotors. To not only dissipate the heat, but to help evacuate the gasses that build up under braking and can actually lift the pads off of the rotor surface.
OK...wow....run on.
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(07-28-2013, 11:00 AM)Randy B_imp Wrote: (07-28-2013, 10:20 AM)FUZZY_imp Wrote: (07-28-2013, 05:23 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: My front brakes are fantastic as is, and I hope my rear brake improves after deglazing this week. There is no way in the world Honda meant for my rear brake to be as ineffective as it is.
I have heard pros and cons (of course) on going to high performance pads. The discs on the CB 1100 seem really thin to me. I'd be hesitant to install anything that "might" exacerbate rotor wear, however I am not knowledgable enough to know if ceramic pads would do that. The only thing people seem to agree on is that they increase bite and make less dust.
Please keep us informed as to how it goes with yours.
Don't know about on bikes but on a truck they create more heat. Not good for rotors. Great performance and no dust though.
That's news to me. I've used ceramic brakes exclusively on my truck for the last 2 brake services and haven't noticed anything that would indicate a hot brake issue.
Also I was in the parts business for years and learned a lot about different brake materials and this is the first time I have ever heard about ceramic brakes running hotter that other materials.
The base ceramic material is designed to not create all that black brake dust and to be quieter that standard semi-metallic brake material and ceramic, as a function of the material, will actually dissipate heat quicker than a standard material.
Something else to consider is that not all ceramic material is created equal. There are different amounts of ceramic in different manufacturers pads and thus creating different levels of performance. It can get quite complicated to say the least.
Now when you are talking about totally ceramic brakes where the rotors are made from a ceramic material (mostly only found in race cars and SOME very high end sports cars) then you can actually see the rotors glow under hard braking, but that is a function of the heat dissipation and not overheating. Those braking systems actually use the heat to produce more friction and thus more stopping power, not at all how street ceramic brakes on cast iron rotors are designed to work together. You and as little heat as possible on an iron rotor for the best possible braking and that's why you see vented, slotted and drilled rotors. To not only dissipate the heat, but to help evacuate the gasses that build up under braking and can actually lift the pads off of the rotor surface.
OK...wow....run on. 
That's news to me. I've used ceramic brakes exclusively on my truck for the last 2 brake services and haven't noticed anything that would indicate a hot brake issue.
Also I was in the parts business for years and learned a lot about different brake materials and this is the first time I have ever heard about ceramic brakes running hotter that other materials.
The base ceramic material is designed to not create all that black brake dust and to be quieter that standard semi-metallic brake material and ceramic, as a function of the material, will actually dissipate heat quicker than a standard material.
Something else to consider is that not all ceramic material is created equal. There are different amounts of ceramic in different manufacturers pads and thus creating different levels of performance. It can get quite complicated to say the least.
Now when you are talking about totally ceramic brakes where the rotors are made from a ceramic material (mostly only found in race cars and SOME very high end sports cars) then you can actually see the rotors glow under hard braking, but that is a function of the heat dissipation and not overheating. Those braking systems actually use the heat to produce more friction and thus more stopping power, not at all how street ceramic brakes on cast iron rotors are designed to work together. You and as little heat as possible on an iron rotor for the best possible braking and that's why you see vented, slotted and drilled rotors. To not only dissipate the heat, but to help evacuate the gasses that build up under braking and can actually lift the pads off of the rotor surface.
OK...wow....run on.  Whooo! I'm out of breath too. Lol. [url=http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?make=Akebono&model=ProACT+Ceramic+Pads&group=ProACT+Ceramic+Pads&cat=Pads]http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.js...s&cat=Pads
These are the ones I ran before Ford improved their factory pads. That was in 2009. Before that I would change out factory pads within a couple days of buying new truck(every 2 years). In about 50K I would replace the warped rotors & put on new pads.
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The warped rotors now a days are more a function of the factory using thinner material from the get go. They are designing them more as a throw away item and are really not meant to be resurfaced like is days gone by. In some cases you can get by with turning the rotors, but honestly it's just not worth it because they will end up warping before the pads are shot so I find it's best to just replace the rotors every time you do a brake service.
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(07-28-2013, 11:35 AM)Randy B_imp Wrote: The warped rotors now a days are more a function of the factory using thinner material from the get go. They are designing them more as a throw away item and are really not meant to be resurfaced like is days gone by. In some cases you can get by with turning the rotors, but honestly it's just not worth it because they will end up warping before the pads are shot so I find it's best to just replace the rotors every time you do a brake service.
I agree. Might get lucky if you catch them soon enough.
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(07-28-2013, 11:00 AM)Randy B_imp Wrote: (07-28-2013, 10:20 AM)FUZZY_imp Wrote: (07-28-2013, 05:23 AM)The ferret_imp Wrote: My front brakes are fantastic as is, and I hope my rear brake improves after deglazing this week. There is no way in the world Honda meant for my rear brake to be as ineffective as it is.
I have heard pros and cons (of course) on going to high performance pads. The discs on the CB 1100 seem really thin to me. I'd be hesitant to install anything that "might" exacerbate rotor wear, however I am not knowledgable enough to know if ceramic pads would do that. The only thing people seem to agree on is that they increase bite and make less dust.
Please keep us informed as to how it goes with yours.
Don't know about on bikes but on a truck they create more heat. Not good for rotors. Great performance and no dust though.
That's news to me. I've used ceramic brakes exclusively on my truck for the last 2 brake services and haven't noticed anything that would indicate a hot brake issue.
Also I was in the parts business for years and learned a lot about different brake materials and this is the first time I have ever heard about ceramic brakes running hotter that other materials.
The base ceramic material is designed to not create all that black brake dust and to be quieter that standard semi-metallic brake material and ceramic, as a function of the material, will actually dissipate heat quicker than a standard material.
Something else to consider is that not all ceramic material is created equal. There are different amounts of ceramic in different manufacturers pads and thus creating different levels of performance. It can get quite complicated to say the least.
Now when you are talking about totally ceramic brakes where the rotors are made from a ceramic material (mostly only found in race cars and SOME very high end sports cars) then you can actually see the rotors glow under hard braking, but that is a function of the heat dissipation and not overheating. Those braking systems actually use the heat to produce more friction and thus more stopping power, not at all how street ceramic brakes on cast iron rotors are designed to work together. You and as little heat as possible on an iron rotor for the best possible braking and that's why you see vented, slotted and drilled rotors. To not only dissipate the heat, but to help evacuate the gasses that build up under braking and can actually lift the pads off of the rotor surface.
OK...wow....run on. 
Heat dissipation is a brake rotor's one and only job. Theoretically, a brake rotor the size of a penny would work just as well, if it weren't for its inability to dissipate the heat generated. Depending on the brake pad, some or a lot of heat is required for the pad material to operate at maximum performance.
Also, modern brake pads don't out-gas any more and drilled rotors are brittle and usually crack around the drill holes before too long because of the expansion/contraction properties of the metal around those punctures. Slotted/drilled brake rotors are more for aesthetic appearance than anything else these days.
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