Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Low end sputter, hesitation
#71
From Wiki:

Normally, the lifetime of an unheated sensor is about 30,000 to 50,000 miles (50,000 to 80,000 km). Heated sensor lifetime is typically 100,000 miles (160,000 km). Failure of an unheated sensor is usually caused by the buildup of soot on the ceramic element, which lengthens its response time and may cause total loss of ability to sense oxygen. For heated sensors, normal deposits are burned off during operation and failure occurs due to catalyst depletion. The probe then tends to report lean mixture, the ECU enriches the mixture, the exhaust gets rich with carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons, and the fuel economy worsens.

Leaded gasoline contaminates the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. Most oxygen sensors are rated for some service life in the presence of leaded gasoline but sensor life will be shortened to as little as 15,000 miles depending on the lead concentration. Lead-damaged sensors typically have their tips discolored light rusty.

Another common cause of premature failure of lambda probes is contamination of fuel with silicones (used in some sealings and greases) or silicates (used as corrosion inhibitors in some antifreezes). In this case, the deposits on the sensor are colored between shiny white and grainy light gray.

Leaks of oil into the engine may cover the probe tip with an oily black deposit, with associated loss of response.

An overly rich mixture causes buildup of black powdery deposit on the probe. This may be caused by failure of the probe itself, or by a problem elsewhere in the fuel rationing system.

Applying an external voltage to the zirconia sensors, e.g. by checking them with some types of ohmmeter, may damage them.

Some sensors have an air inlet to the sensor in the lead, so contamination from the lead caused by water or oil leaks can be sucked into the sensor and cause failure.



I'm not taking sides and don't care one way or the other what you do--just posting the info. I'd most likely just leave it in too though (I guess thats taking a side?)
Reply
#72
O2 sensors will fail at some point. Then you'd have to either fiddle out the old sensor and replace it, or do the smart thing (IMO) and switch to an eliminator / resistor that won't be living it's life in the rather unfriendly environment of superheated dirty air that is your exhaust.
Reply
#73
It all makes sense to me, good work guys ! .....i'm leaving mine in.
Reply
#74
I just received an e-mail from Steve Bracher from Redline Superbikes (the U.K. source many are buying these O2 Sensor Eliminator Plugs from).

He states that it is best to remove and store the O2 Lambda Sensor if you are bypassing it to prevent it from getting fouled irreparably.
Reply
#75
??? does the DLX have one or two ? (to late in the evening for me to look) I am going to assume one.
Reply
#76
(05-07-2015, 10:57 AM)Chapomis_imp Wrote: ??? does the DLX have one or two ? (to late in the evening for me to look) I am going to assume one.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it.
Reply
#77
(05-07-2015, 11:58 AM)Gumby 1100_imp Wrote:
(05-07-2015, 10:57 AM)Chapomis_imp Wrote: ??? does the DLX have one or two ? (to late in the evening for me to look) I am going to assume one.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it. Save your money on the socket tool and just cut a slot in an old 17mm wrench. Works perfect.
Reply
#78
(05-11-2015, 09:23 PM)lash_imp Wrote:
(05-07-2015, 11:58 AM)Gumby 1100_imp Wrote:
(05-07-2015, 10:57 AM)Chapomis_imp Wrote: ??? does the DLX have one or two ? (to late in the evening for me to look) I am going to assume one.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it. Save your money on the socket tool and just cut a slot in an old 17mm wrench. Works perfect.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it. Save your money on the socket tool and just cut a slot in an old 17mm wrench. Works perfect.
Will an open end wrench work?
Reply
#79
I couldn't find one that was narrow enough around the end to fit in the shroud. The other end of the wrench in the pic is an open end and it doesn't fit. Takes less than 5 min. to cut the slot.
Reply
#80
I received my 02 eliminator yesterday. So this morning before I went to meet ACKCB, I pulled the right-hand side-cover and found a 4 pin connector that matched it elim. Started the bike and rode to meet ACK. The sputtering seemed to still be there. What I didn't notice right away was that the spedo wasn't working and the ABS light was on..... We stopped in Sconset and "Thank Honda" for the right allen wrench in the "Tool Kit" and I pulled the cover to remove the Elim and ACK noticed that there were two 4 pin connectors, so we swapped it out. Same result ! No spedo and didn't go far enough to see if the sputtering had stopped. Removed the elim and all was back to normal. Does anyone have a repair manual for the DLX. Is it possible that there is another 4 pin somewhere ? Or maybe this just dosn't work on a DLX ?
Reply


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Hesitation? Not running smoothly? mininsx_imp 74 3,865 01-26-2022, 10:49 PM
Last Post: GoldOxide_imp

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)