I took her top off...

[Lambchops_imp]

So my 2013 CB1100 which I bought at 40k+ KM (25k miles) developed a leak around the cylinder head cam cover. I sent it off to the mechanic and was surprised to hear from him that he had to remove the exhaust and engine bolt to tilt the motor slightly forward in order to remove the cam cover without scratching it. Has anyone had experience removing the cam cover without doing any of that?

In any case, he mentioned that the cam chain seems looser than what he is used to seeing. So I have a few questions hoping someone might be able to answer:

1. What is the tolerance for the cam chain?
2. What are the torque values for cam cover bolts, exhaust header bolts and engine mount bolts?

Would really appreciate if someone has access to a service manual and can share those figures.

(Before anybody ask why my Honda dealer doesn't have one, the CB1100 isn't officially imported and so nobody really has any information or support from the dealer here.)

Here are some photos:



Before she was stripped:

[max]

The cover is indeed a tight fit but most manage to slide it out to the left.
Just a matter of finding the right angle to remove it, you want to be careful not to damage the seal or the chain guard cover that sits on top of the chain and is not present in your pictures,

here are two pictures with the guard in place;
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid213525

which may be the reason of the leak.
Engine stays where it is but i hope you have taken the opportunity to check and note down the valve clearance for each valve for the future with the top off, you may have seen the thread for this;
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid139671

the bolts bottom out on their shoulder when installed, no need to overtighten these as they are easily accessible with everything installed and have rubber seals under the head that try to keep the oil on the wet side of the cover, i applied some sealant to the big seal especially in the corners where the four chrome inserts are, not too much, you don't want any to work loose and end up inside a small oil passage or restrictor and block it.

The chain has an automatic tensioner and does not need adjustment, it clicks in under spring tension and has a non return ratchet system that takes up the slack of the chain as required, it is in the middle of the cylinders at the back just above the oil temp sensor.

Did the oil cooler have to be moved to facilitate the movement of the engine?

[dave]

I had the cam cover off my 2014 Dlx to inspect the valve clearances. I had a really difficult time getting the cover off and out of the frame, but with the help of a friend, we did it. You have to carefully push all of the wires/ hoses out of the way. It went back on really easy.

The cylinder head cover bolt torque = 7 lbf-ft.
Front engine bracket nut = 36 lbf-ft
Front engine hanger nut, Rear engine bracket bolt, Rear upper engine hanger nut, Rear lower engine hanger nut = 44 lbf-ft

[Lambchops_imp]

I had the cam cover off my 2014 Dlx to inspect the valve clearances. I had a really difficult time getting the cover off and out of the frame, but with the help of a friend, we did it. You have to carefully push all of the wires/ hoses out of the way. It went back on really easy.

The cylinder head cover bolt torque = 7 lbf-ft.
Front engine bracket nut = 36 lbf-ft
Front engine hanger nut, Rear engine bracket bolt, Rear upper engine hanger nut, Rear lower engine hanger nut = 44 lbf-ft

Thanks Dave!

The cover is indeed a tight fit but most manage to slide it out to the left.
Just a matter of finding the right angle to remove it, you want to be careful not to damage the seal or the chain guard cover that sits on top of the chain and is not present in your pictures,

here are two pictures with the guard in place;
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid213525

which may be the reason of the leak.
Engine stays where it is but i hope you have taken the opportunity to check and note down the valve clearance for each valve for the future with the top off, you may have seen the thread for this;
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid139671

the bolts bottom out on their shoulder when installed, no need to overtighten these as they are easily accessible with everything installed and have rubber seals under the head that try to keep the oil on the wet side of the cover, i applied some sealant to the big seal especially in the corners where the four chrome inserts are, not too much, you don't want any to work loose and end up inside a small oil passage or restrictor and block it.

The chain has an automatic tensioner and does not need adjustment, it clicks in under spring tension and has a non return ratchet system that takes up the slack of the chain as required, it is in the middle of the cylinders at the back just above the oil temp sensor.

Did the oil cooler have to be moved to facilitate the movement of the engine?

Thanks Max! I didn't see the guard while I was there but I will ask the mechanic - he must have removed it. The valve clearances will be checked and I'll have them noted.

As for the oil cooler, it didn't have to be moved but I am replacing them with Earl's oil cooler. I suspect the high year round temperatures in the tropics here isn't very kind on the engine. I'll update with photos.

Cheers

[max]

Thanks for the update lambchops, we appreciate that and we learn something in return, lovely pictures by the way

[GoldOxide_imp]

Lampchops: Very thoughtful share of your ordeal.

[Lambchops_imp]

UPDATES:

By the time I rang the mechanic to ask that he record the valve clearance, he had already concluded the valve check and his records only indicate they are all within spec. No adjustments were needed thereby reducing the bill a little...

Here are some photos of the cam area being cleaned up and buttoned up:




Below are some photos of the OEM Honda fork booties and Earl's Active oil cooler that were also installed.

The clearance between the fork gaiters and oil cooler is just nice and it is barely touching - however the oil cooler does not have a guard installed which I suspect might touch the gaiter when the wheel is at full lock at the stops:











I also fitted a PCV and had a run on the dyno. The bike feels much smoother now, especially when holding constant throttle below 3k RPM - no more of the hesitation and stutter.

I wasn't aiming to tune for maximum performance but more to correct the overly lean factory settings and run a little less hot, though that came with a few extra horse as a bonus.

Happy to share the graphs if anyone is keen. Cheers

[GoldOxide_imp]

Lovely gawk at the superb innards of the lump.

[the Ferret]

Wild looking oil cooler