Have you replaced your battery?

[Lord Popgun]

I had virtually no warning. Noticed engine wasn't spinning as fast (barely noticed and wasn't sure) but everything was fine. Then rode somewhere and stopped. Then started the bike and rode home and parked. Hit the starter to put the bike in the garage and the starter couldn't even spin the engine.

[Cormanus]

As I recall the demise of my battery, I left the ignition on one morning and flattened it. I then bump started the bike and the battery was fine. The morning I gave up on it, the bike started and I rode 30 or 40 kms before stopping for fuel. The battery wouldn't turn the engine over. I bump started it and rode to a dealer. When I got there it was starting fine again, but I replaced the battery anyway.

[curlyjoe]

Testing the battery with a standard voltmeter as a pre-ride check is something I wouldn't do on a regular basis since it's a pain to remove the seat and expose the battery. Popgun put me on to an [url=https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0157-Disconnect-Voltage/dp/B00DJ5KE9A]nifty little digital voltmeter that plugs into a battery tender lead. Since it's much more convenient, I'm going to do a pre-ride check based on [url=http://www.yuasabatteries.com/faqs.php?action=1&id=30]recommendations from yuasa

Plug in the voltmeter and it should read 12.6-12.8 volts for a fully charged battery.

Turn on the ignition and press the starter. While the engine is cranking, the voltage should not drop below 9.5 volts. If it does, replace the battery.

While the engine is running, the voltage should be in the range of 13.8-14.5 volts to properly charge an AGM battery. This is a bit fuzzy to me since I would expect the voltage to be rpm dependent.

[Lord Popgun]

...I would expect the voltage to be rpm dependent.

Thats why they invented voltage regulators

[gmike_imp]

Does everybody do this 1st charge. I would almost bet the shops don't have time for an overnight charge. The charge instructions are at the end of this short video.

I HOPE this works.

[url=https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=yusa+ytz14s+charging&view=detail&mid=2D8776CDFD678583D7AA2D8776CDFD678583D7AA&FORM=VIRE]https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=yus...&FORM=VIRE

IT WORKED !

[flynrider]

...I would expect the voltage to be rpm dependent.

Thats why they invented voltage regulators

The regulator will try to keep the voltage as close to optimal as possible. The one fitted to the the CB1100 is quite good at this. I've measured mine with a voltmeter and it doesn't vary beyond 14.1 at idle to 14.3 at 5K rpm. That's way better than the regulator on my old CB750. It varies from 13.5 at idle to 14.7 at 5K rpm. The rate at 5K rpm is actually too high and it tends to boil the battery dry over the course of 6 months or so. I have to remember to refill the battery with distilled water every few months.

I'm coming up on about 2.5 years on my battery and this thread is making me wonder if it's going to die soon. For what it's worth I never planned to, but my CB ended up sitting from November until yesterday outside under a cover without being ridden once and without any treatment for the fuel. Yesterday I got it out and it started instantly twice as if it had been ridden yesterday. This makes me think the battery is still fine? Those of you who had to replace yours, how much warning did you have? I have AAA but not looking to get stranded anywhere but also don't want to spend the money replacing it if it's not really needed.

Mine died without warning, which appears to be typical for AGM type batteries. It started perfectly one day. I rode 5 miles, stopped for 5 min. and it was dead when I tried to restart. All of my previous flooded cell batteries died more slowly with plenty of warning.

The bright side is that although the battery won't crank the engine, it'll have plenty to run the ignition, lights and computer for a bump start. That's how I made it home.

[Lord Popgun]

Does everybody do this 1st charge. I would almost bet the shops don't have time for an overnight charge. The charge instructions are at the end of this short video.

I HOPE this works.

[url=https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=yusa+ytz14s+charging&view=detail&mid=2D8776CDFD678583D7AA2D8776CDFD678583D7AA&FORM=VIRE]https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=yus...&FORM=VIRE

IT WORKED !

The OEM Yuasa I bought was precharged by the manufacturer. My dealer checked it with a digital battery tester to ensure it was good before selling it to me. I took it home and put it on a 2 amp Battery Tender charger and installed it in the bike the next day.

Our battery is not a flooded cell like in your video (unless you installed one), but is an AGM battery. Still, never hurts to make sure it is fully charged before the first use and is good practice.

[DaSwami_imp]

What is bump starting? If it is what I think it is, I thought that only worked with a carb'd bike?

[Cormanus]

Bump starting. Preferred method*: roll the bike down a hill with the ignition on, stick it in second gear and, when you get enough momentum, let out the clutch and hope it starts. Usually works fine. I've bump started Pterodactyl's and my CB1100s.

I'm not aware of problems doing it with fuel injected engines; you can't do it with an automatic car.

*Less fun, get someone to push you while you sit on the bike. OR, if the bike is light enough, run along beside it while you push and then leap aboard at the critical moment. I would not want to do this with the CB!

[DaSwami_imp]

Learn something new everyday...thanks Cormanus.