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Cormanus i can confirm this works on my cb919, and i have used the same video, same color wires, cam sensor and connector.
The 100 ohm resistor is used instead of a fuse, it keeps the smoke inside the ecm by limiting the fault current in case of a wiring mistake and can be anything up to 5 kilo ohm, the ecm input just expects to see 12 volts on the line.
The chip is a philips unit and is pretty universal, the way it works is; on startup a radio signal is transmitted through the ring around the ignition key and supplies power to the chip inside the key.
The chip wakes up and responds with a coded signal on another frequency which is received by the hiss system which is compared to the code stored in the hiss system, if the code is valid the system unlocks and the fuel pump can be heard priming the system as usual.
To check for functionality you could perform the first stage of the procedure and see if the hiss light works as described by the video, if it does you're in business.
The distance within which the key works is around 2 inches, outside this range the system is unable to " wake up the key " due to too low a level of energy supplied by the hiss antenna.
Did i leave anything out guy's?
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Hey, Max, in the video the bloke says you should connect the negative terminal to the battery first. I thought it was the other way around: positive first?
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Two different things; replacing a battery; connect positive first, reason? the circuit ( negative terminal ) is not made
( disconnected ) so if you inadvertently touch the frame of the bike with a tool on the positive terminal nothing happens.
If the positive terminal is connected, tightened and the red plastic cover is in place it's time for the negative terminal to be connected, since the bike is now at the same potential ( the negative lead is connected to the frame already ) as the negative terminal there is again no risk caused by any tool touching the frame whilst in contact with the negative terminal post.
The danger here is connecting a tool from the positive red terminal to the frame and developing high currents to flow and do damage to tools, battery, terminals and body parts.
It's a bit like crossing the river with a goat, a cabbage and a rabbit on a boat, there is a safe way and the other way and i never get tired of explaining this.
In the video the battery is already connected so new rules apply ( watch out for the positive wires making contact with the frame which is negative ! ) and connecting the negative to the battery is the better way as is the case with all the other wiring jobs on the bike,
So the first rule is the safest when installing and removing a battery only and the second rule applies to all wiring on the bike and follows most installations in general.
That is why it is so confusing but that is how it works.
Good question!
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Thanks, Max, that's very helpful information.
What about when jump starting a car? Which should you connect first?
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I could give you the answer but it seems more fun when you reason it out with the explanation why and i will respond accordingly, it would prove that you now understand the concept.
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Oh, dear, I thought I escaped all that when I left school.
You'd think you would have to connect the positive terminal first as it's like installing a new battery in the vehicle with the flat battery. But, unless you disconnect the earth from the flat battery, connecting the positive will effectively complete the circuit, won't it? So, negative first?
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Max:
I will add that during the age before AGM/gel-based batteries, ye olde open cell lead-acid battery would fart off hydrogen gas from time-to-time. If one managed to arc the battery due to lazy handling of tools, there was a risk of explosion. In the extreme case, the battery could rupture and spray sulfuric acid, potentially harming the operator.
Nevertheless, shorting any battery is a bad thing.
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Dead right GO., Cormanus; What would happen if the positive cable touched the second car if the negative is already connected?
and keeping in mind that i'm obviously not getting at ya.
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You’d have a splendid short, Max!
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Actually, it occurred to me after the last post that you might well also make the entire metal surface of the second car live which could cause all sorts of fun.