Thought I was done with the CB - trying again (forks)

[ohiorider_imp]

Still liking what for me is a major suspension improvement. Just need some opinions on:
- Least expensive way to lower foot pegs approx 3/4" and move them forward same amount.
- Handlebars that would fit my 5'7" (and 32" sleeve length) better. Don't want monkey bars.
- stock bars too much of a reach unless I'm running 75mph +.
- not sure what I need. I know Honda offers (in Asia) a diff bar for the CB.
- Saddle, Stocker has me feeling like I'm sliding into the tank, and no thigh support. Thinking Corbin.

Thanks,

Bob

[Houtman_imp]

You probably will like the standard Corbin , I at 6 ft prefer the higher version.

[ohiorider_imp]

You probably will like the standard Corbin , I at 6 ft prefer the higher version.

I'm thinking the standard Gunfighter. I've ridden with that saddle on both a W650 and a 2003 Triumph T100, and it worked for me then.

Bob

[SCCBrider_imp]

Hey Bob, as for the handlebars, I am 5'8". I just took mine and tilted them back about an inch, or so.
Ken

11

Still liking what for me is a major suspension improvement. Just need some opinions on:
- Least expensive way to lower foot pegs approx 3/4" and move them forward same amount.
- Handlebars that would fit my 5'7" (and 32" sleeve length) better. Don't want monkey bars.
- stock bars too much of a reach unless I'm running 75mph +.
- not sure what I need. I know Honda offers (in Asia) a diff bar for the CB.
- Saddle, Stocker has me feeling like I'm sliding into the tank, and no thigh support. Thinking Corbin.

Thanks,

Bob

[LongRanger_imp]

Flanders has a great selection of bars. Google and look.

[Aussieflyer]

Great to see that your suspension is coming along nicely. I think you'll feel better with the 0.80 or 0.85 kg/mm springs. Did you end up using those pre-drilled damping rods or drill out the original Honda units?

WRT ergos there's a couple of low cost options you could play around with to see if they work for you:
1. handle bar risers from ebay (item # 151690872221), and
2. multi step adjustable foot pegs from ebay (item # 152243475905).

[ohiorider_imp]

Thanks for all the helpful info, everyone.

Bob

Great to see that your suspension is coming along nicely. I think you'll feel better with the 0.80 or 0.85 kg/mm springs. Did you end up using those pre-drilled damping rods or drill out the original Honda units?

WRT ergos there's a couple of low cost options you could play around with to see if they work for you:
1. handle bar risers from ebay (item # 151690872221), and
2. multi step adjustable foot pegs from ebay (item # 152243475905).

Aussieflyer, I used the pre-drilled damper rods from Traxxion Dynamics, who also supplied the RaceTech Valves as part of their kit. They supplied fork springs (1.0 kg/mm,) which I exchanged with them for .90 springs.

Since I'd had good experience in the past working with Race Tech, I began working with their technician via phone. He asked about the number of bleed holes in the RT emulators, and recommended adding two more holes per valve (done), and reducing the blue (medium weight) valve spring preload to two turns (done), all of which made the bike's front end more compliant. He also suggested that if it still felt too stiff, I could drop to either .85 or .80 fork springs, and could change to the lightest weight (silver) emulator springs. So that's next.

BTW - like the looks (and price) on the adjustable foot pegs.

[spacetiger_imp]

Bob,

For free, you can also drop the oil fill level in the forks. There is plenty of oil for the damping function. The oil level [also] sets the size of the air chamber so by default it sets the "air spring". If you go lower (2" lower is safe) you can soften up the overall spring rate.

Jerry

[nhawk7504_imp]

The big issue is usually damping and I've had the same problem on many a stock machine. My TU250 was among the best and it was a CHEAP bike. It did dive under hard braking but those forks and shocks sure soaked up the hard stuff at slow to moderate speeds. Hard suspension doesn't run wide at higher speeds on bumpy corners and there is a reason why MotoGP riders get their suspension redialed for many tracks. - I liked my 02 FZ1 which had fully adjustable front and rear suspension. I'd mess with all the settings, all the way one way and then all the way to the other and then slightly back on the end I liked.

[SportsterDoc]

The big issue is usually damping and I've had the same problem on many a stock machine. My TU250 was among the best and it was a CHEAP bike. It did dive under hard braking but those forks and shocks sure soaked up the hard stuff at slow to moderate speeds. Hard suspension doesn't run wide at higher speeds on bumpy corners and there is a reason why MotoGP riders get their suspension redialed for many tracks. - I liked my 02 FZ1 which had fully adjustable front and rear suspension. I'd mess with all the settings, all the way one way and then all the way to the other and then slightly back on the end I liked.

As did my 2002 Sportster 1200 Sport.
Eventually I ended up with all settings in the middle.
Perhaps because I am the same rider weight as is generally used for testing, such as stopping distances.
The FZ01 was an impressive machine, with 3500 more RPM, most power 8K-12K, high compression.

https://motoperf.com/motorcycles/Honda-C...006-914314

The FZ09 is also amazing for its engine size.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSVt5GxUsl4