How To do your own 600 mile service

[Xyzzy_imp]

Here is a trick I figured out to prime the oil pump after installing a new filter and oil.

After everything is done, when you go to start the bike, hold the throttle at full open. The bike will not fire because this throttle opening instructs the ECU to not fire the plugs. (This is to clear out the bike if it gets flooded with fuel.)

The bike cranks much lower than idle speed so there is less wear on the motor. I had to crank the bike twice for 5-7 seconds each time until the oil pressure light extinguished.

[xNE0x_imp]

Thanks for the write up. I got my 600 mile oil change coming up this weekend, and I will throw up a D.I.Y. video.

Something I would like to add is on the older 750's a common mistake that is made is the oil level. What happens is after the bike warms, the oil gets thinner and sucks down the oil. If you check it immediately, it will register low. You add oil, only to check it again later to see it's WAY overfull. Let the bike sit awhile before checking oil level again. It needs a chance to drain back for an accurate reading.

[johnnyj_imp]

Just completed 1st service following this guide and it worked out great.
Oil filter was so tight I had to get my big pair of channel locks on it, the paint was scraped from the block where the metal from the filter scraped into it during assembly.
Oil plug was fairly loose but tight enough as it never leaked.
I held back about an ounce of oil from the gallon I purchased as recommended and it took it right to the upper mark perfectly.
Chain had 2" of slack, adjusted that into spec.
Everything else looked good.

Thanks again for the great write up!

[JustPassinThru_imp]

Here is a trick I figured out to prime the oil pump after installing a new filter and oil.

After everything is done, when you go to start the bike, hold the throttle at full open. The bike will not fire because this throttle opening instructs the ECU to not fire the plugs. (This is to clear out the bike if it gets flooded with fuel.)

The bike cranks much lower than idle speed so there is less wear on the motor. I had to crank the bike twice for 5-7 seconds each time until the oil pressure light extinguished.

Excellent!

On my cars...I found, pressure comes up faster if I pour fresh oil into the new filter BEFORE screwing it on. Depending on the location, it can be a little messy...but it's just fresh oil; wipe it up and it disappears in a week on the driveway. Pressure would come right up, like any other cold start.

I often wondered if I'd be doing the filter some harm that way, though. Up to now, I haven't changed the oil myself. When I lay it up this fall, though, I intend to.

[JustPassinThru_imp]

Yes, well dad taught me differently, and he knew little about cars. His thought is why leave a qt or dirty oil in the engine, for small money. His cars did last forever to the dislike of mom. Except for the 65 Chevy impala were the power steering hose ruptured driving back on vacation and the car caught on fire. Still remember standing a far bit back and seeing it go up in flames on the interstate in Indiana. We were 90 miles from home, heck of a taxi ride to end the vacation. Did get all new clothes and shoes except for what I was wearing!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm reading through this...I know this is an old post.

But I've wondered. With the oil cooler...there's gonna be a LOT of oil left in the system with a change. So...how much worse can it be to leave the filter in every-other change?

Not that I would recommend it; but the argument that leaving a filter in leaves a quantity of old oil in, was the one I grew up with. Now there's that elaborate oil cooler; and unless I break connections and drain it separately, there's going to be all that old oil in there. And probably twice as much as the tiny filter.

Hey...enquiring minds want to know!

[VAslim16_imp]

Thanks for this Ferret. Did mine a few weeks and went great!

[Riko_imp]

do you really have to replace the oil fill plug after every oil change?

[the Ferret]

No, but if you don't oil will splash everywhere.

Unless you are talking about the drain plug sealing washer? If so, no not if yours is still in good shape and isn't compressed with a lip.

[Riko_imp]

No, but if you don't oil will splash everywhere.

Unless you are talking about the drain plug sealing washer? If so, no not if yours is still in good shape and isn't compressed with a lip.

i am not sure we are on the same issue

i was indeed talking about the plug on top of the engine case and not the washer at the bottom

but i would reuse the oil plug, are you saying you cant reuse these, its just a piece of plastic with rubber and a thread, why would this go bad all of a sudden...

While you're at it check fluid levels in clutch, brake and rear brake fluid reservoirs ( rear brake res is under seat right side)

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020030_zps5bc70125.jpg.html]


[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020031_zps0f2a3ae2.jpg.html]

Btw your fuse box is right next to the rear brake res. Its good to know where it is before you have any electrical issues

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020032_zps7199aa4b.jpg.html]
Our oil should be drained by now so let get to putting our bike back together. Take your drain plug, and new crush washer if necessary and start bolt into drain. After 2 or 3 treads stop and clean oil off surrounding area with a rag.


[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020025_zps301573e6.jpg.html]

Once clean run the bolt home by hand. Then tighten with ratchet and 17 mm socket. I snug mine up, but spec is 20 ft lbs I believe.


Next grab your new oil filter. Rub some fresh oil around the rubber o- ring and pour an ounce or two into the filter and roll it around.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020023_zpsa8d6934b.jpg.html]

When ready to install, take your rag and make sure area around filter is clean.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020022_zps6b9647f4.jpg.html]
Install filter by hand and tighten down until it makes contact. Finish tightening by hand turning an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn or until snug. Torque pec on it is Ft lbs if uou are so inclined.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020024_zpsbf8503c9.jpg.html]

Now move to the right side of the bike. This bike has a pretty small fill so grab a funnel if you don't want oil everywhere.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020029_zps5b056da1.jpg.html]

The CB calls for 4.1 qts with filter, 4.0 qts without of Honda 10 W30. I put an asterisk next to that figure. I poured 4 qts into mine ans it was slightly overfilled. Not so high it will cause an issue, but next time I'm putting in 3 qts 28 oz and checking it before adding any more.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020037_zpsf6b74396.jpg.html]

Replace your oil fill plug.

Now start the bike, immediately the red oil light will come on

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020050_zps7d74364d.jpg.html]

But it should go out in a second or two

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/2013_05020051_zps957c285c.jpg.html]

While the bike is warming up, check headlight, high and low beams, turn signals left and right, front and back, tail light, and brake light with hand and foot.

After running for 2 minutes. Turn the bike off and let it sit for 5 mins or so. Then check oil level in sight glass. It should be between the high and low mark. Anywhere in between is okay, but we all know you are going to try and make it dead even with the top mark, aren't you?

[the Ferret]

Oh I see the issue..it's the english language lol..."replace" in this case means screw it back in. (not replace with a new one)