chain slack

[Jfro5687_imp]

you all are overlooking one thing... there is a green and red zones marked on your adjusters. if you have proper length chain and it's not old and stretched from excessive miles, if the adjusters are in the green zone, you're fine.

this from cb750, but shows my point

Not to derail the slack conversation, but I feel this applies somewhat...

I just performed my first chain clean and lube today and have now adjusted the chain to as close to 1 inch of free play as I could get (owing to the few people here who agreed a slightly tighter chain seemed to shift better).

However, when adjusting the set screws it was immediately apparent that they were wildly different from one side of the bike to the other. The manual states when adjusting, make sure you perform the same turn on each side, but it mentions nothing about how to align the wheel when they are not set at the same distance to begin with.

I blame the dealer that I purchased the bike from. I have found that they claimed they changed the oil and filter (they didn't), changed the brake and clutch fluids (they didn't). The only thing they did do was goop grease on the chain that flung everywhere. And now apparently it seems they only adjusted one side.

I got out my Mitutoyo Calipers and measured the following before making any adjustments.

Chain side, before adjustment: 0.467 inches
Brake side, before adjustment: 0.596 inches

After adjusting the tension on the chain side to as close to 1 inch as possible, I then adjusted both sides to the following before torquing the axle nuts to 83 ft lbs.

Chain side, adjusted: 0.684 inches
Brake side, adjusted: 0.683 inches



Did I do this right or should I have left them with the disparity in the gaps because that is not how the wheel is aligned?

Not to derail the slack conversation, but I feel this applies somewhat...

I just performed my first chain clean and lube today and have now adjusted the chain to as close to 1 inch of free play as I could get (owing to the few people here who agreed a slightly tighter chain seemed to shift better).

However, when adjusting the set screws it was immediately apparent that they were wildly different from one side of the bike to the other. The manual states when adjusting, make sure you perform the same turn on each side, but it mentions nothing about how to align the wheel when they are not set at the same distance to begin with.

I blame the dealer that I purchased the bike from. I have found that they claimed they changed the oil and filter (they didn't), changed the brake and clutch fluids (they didn't). The only thing they did do was goop grease on the chain that flung everywhere. And now apparently it seems they only adjusted one side.

I got out my Mitutoyo Calipers and measured the following before making any adjustments.

Chain side, before adjustment: 0.467 inches
Brake side, before adjustment: 0.596 inches

After adjusting the tension on the chain side to as close to 1 inch as possible, I then adjusted both sides to the following before torquing the axle nuts to 83 ft lbs.

Chain side, adjusted: 0.684 inches
Brake side, adjusted: 0.683 inches



Did I do this right or should I have left them with the disparity in the gaps because that is not how the wheel is aligned?
Hi Whoops,
Rightly or wrongly that’s exactly what I do. I am taking a leap of faith that Honda puts their frames/swingarm together to fine tolerances in the first place so I just make sure the adjusters both sides are as near to identical as I can. Then I choose not to worry about it anymore. I have tried the string method many times over the years to line up front & rear wheels on different bikes with some success but (especially on a spoked wheel) I find the wheel rims and tyres can easily run out a few mm so how do you know where you are?

Some bikes have rear wheel offset too and that messes with your head. Others may be able to confirm but I’ve had a few Harleys that I swear didn’t line up at all, like 10mm out! Anyway, the CB feels really well balanced, tracks straight so I’m confident it’s pretty accurate at the end of the day. When I spin the rear wheel over (on the stand obviously) it’s as free as anything which I take to mean it’s all tracking true with no dragging of the brakes at all.

Funny you should say that about the brakes. I did hear a slight drag after setting the ends to have the same clearances. Now I wonder if I just created a problem that didn't exist before.

Funny you should say that about the brakes. I did hear a slight drag after setting the ends to have the same clearances. Now I wonder if I just created a problem that didn't exist before.
Hiya again,
TBH I would say the opposite, I converted your measurements into mm so that I can visualize it better and I agree the axle was out of whack, so all you’ve done (IMO) is set it straight but now of course your rear pads have worn in that way, that’s why you hear them drag. Depending upon your OCD you could live with it until they bed in again or swap them out for a new set. I still think you did the right thing though. Just out of interest when I adjusted my EX chain for the first time both adjusters were virtually identical (i.e. factory set I can only presume) and required only a tiny adjustment (because I have no time pressure) to get them spot on. Have you had a ride out since you adjusted it? be interesting to hear if you noticed any difference.