11-17-2023, 01:17 PM
I created an account here just to post on the PC6.. May save you some headaches. First off if you can find a used PC3 or 5 - 100% get it.. Dynojet changed the 6 to force you to pay their certified tuners if you want/need anything more than the mist basic tuning usually to get rideif lean pops out when you add unrestricted exhaust
Here’s the short list:
* PC6 has an end user max change capped at +/- 15% over stock ECU signal for fuel and +/- 5 deg timing (if applicable to the model your bike uses or if you add their timing module). These are arbitrary % based changes not actual values like degrees of advance...
* PC6 Does Not Display the Real Values in the Tuning Map becuase there are 2 maps for each acrual map, a base map that you can’t see and the map that has your changes... It comes with a base Map for your bike model.. Now Imagine adding 5 degrees timing only to find out there’s +3 in their base map but the Ignition Tuning Map shows 0 degrees.. You just bought a new engine and no there is NO Warning in the User Interface and until recently there was NO Documentation in the Manual or their Website..
*PC6 AutoTune.. “AutoTune” is a stretch. It records the required differences in fueling to meet your target AFR values by recording the actual AFR and then storing the required fuel map changes needed to meet that target value. It *will* also insert some wildly inappropriate values so you have to check and smooth the maps after “accepting” the changes. Expect to repeat this process at least 7-10 times and review each change to establish a half decent base tune. Make sure you Disable Autotune once you have a desired tune and I’d def reccomend removing the wideband O2 sensor(s) at this point as well as they typically only survive a yr. It won’t tell you if the sensor data is bad it will just provide bad values. It will only tell you if the sensor has completely failed by not loading it in the PC interface and showing a red light on the autotune module but while riding you have no way to know.
Maps:
* PC6 has a *Tiny* fraction of the maps available for PC5, Dynojet could Easy Convert PC5 maps to 6 without needing the specific bike to do so.. but choose not to.. Dynojet intentionally did not announce this difference when the PC6 was released, not in the manual or their website.. Why Help Riders when you can Extort them ?
* PC6 You *CANNOT use a Map from someone else* since you Cannot Verify what the Map Values are without risking your engine. PC5 has tons of community built maps that are widely used and in many cases Dyno verified. Dynojet shut this down completely with PC6…. Again its much easier to make money if the community is blind.. Consider there is no decent aftermarket Car ECU that does this.. Only Dynojet
* PC6 does not use the same map editor as PC5, it uses PowerCore which has specific licensing that hides PC6 features from end users.. Only Dynojet Tuning Centers can access the same things you can in a PC5
* PC6 Maps are in the “XXXXX-XX” format PCV maps are “XX-XXX-XXX”
* 18031-01 is a PC6 map for example
* PC6 Map Switching Actually Does Work and maybe the Best Feature of the 6 they didn’t Ruin
* PC6 Cold Idle Control also works very well, you can easily set a cold idle (rpm) and duration of Warmup
* PC6 Launch control - supposedly this works, I havent tried it yet
* PC6 Removes the Accelerator Pump Feature (used to add extra gas upon immediate throttle up - it’s a Digital version of what carbs do when you hit the gas). This allowed you to smooth out the instant response and is particularly useful smoothing response when low-speed maneuvering and on some of the more twitchy bikes. Again onlylicensed tuners can accss this...
I bought a PC6 early before Dynojet got exposed for these shady changes and none of it was in the manual or website... They did not and still don’t have a suitable PC6 map for my bike.. despite promises etc.. I’ve had several aftermarket ECU’s and piggybacks in cars over the years but none were a scam like what Dynojet has pulled in the 6... Removing core function, hiding the actual tuning maps, forcing you to pay more for same features in the previous model, restricting rangea of change and falsey advertising initially.. It should cost 1/2 for what they removed..
If you want to only tune out popping, have 2 maps and idle control it will do it but its seat of the pants tuning. I highly advise avoiding the timing module unless you plan to pay a DJ tuner do it for you.. If you can find a PC3 or PCV (PC5) they are the way to go..
Here’s the short list:
* PC6 has an end user max change capped at +/- 15% over stock ECU signal for fuel and +/- 5 deg timing (if applicable to the model your bike uses or if you add their timing module). These are arbitrary % based changes not actual values like degrees of advance...
* PC6 Does Not Display the Real Values in the Tuning Map becuase there are 2 maps for each acrual map, a base map that you can’t see and the map that has your changes... It comes with a base Map for your bike model.. Now Imagine adding 5 degrees timing only to find out there’s +3 in their base map but the Ignition Tuning Map shows 0 degrees.. You just bought a new engine and no there is NO Warning in the User Interface and until recently there was NO Documentation in the Manual or their Website..
*PC6 AutoTune.. “AutoTune” is a stretch. It records the required differences in fueling to meet your target AFR values by recording the actual AFR and then storing the required fuel map changes needed to meet that target value. It *will* also insert some wildly inappropriate values so you have to check and smooth the maps after “accepting” the changes. Expect to repeat this process at least 7-10 times and review each change to establish a half decent base tune. Make sure you Disable Autotune once you have a desired tune and I’d def reccomend removing the wideband O2 sensor(s) at this point as well as they typically only survive a yr. It won’t tell you if the sensor data is bad it will just provide bad values. It will only tell you if the sensor has completely failed by not loading it in the PC interface and showing a red light on the autotune module but while riding you have no way to know.
Maps:
* PC6 has a *Tiny* fraction of the maps available for PC5, Dynojet could Easy Convert PC5 maps to 6 without needing the specific bike to do so.. but choose not to.. Dynojet intentionally did not announce this difference when the PC6 was released, not in the manual or their website.. Why Help Riders when you can Extort them ?
* PC6 You *CANNOT use a Map from someone else* since you Cannot Verify what the Map Values are without risking your engine. PC5 has tons of community built maps that are widely used and in many cases Dyno verified. Dynojet shut this down completely with PC6…. Again its much easier to make money if the community is blind.. Consider there is no decent aftermarket Car ECU that does this.. Only Dynojet
* PC6 does not use the same map editor as PC5, it uses PowerCore which has specific licensing that hides PC6 features from end users.. Only Dynojet Tuning Centers can access the same things you can in a PC5
* PC6 Maps are in the “XXXXX-XX” format PCV maps are “XX-XXX-XXX”
* 18031-01 is a PC6 map for example
* PC6 Map Switching Actually Does Work and maybe the Best Feature of the 6 they didn’t Ruin
* PC6 Cold Idle Control also works very well, you can easily set a cold idle (rpm) and duration of Warmup
* PC6 Launch control - supposedly this works, I havent tried it yet
* PC6 Removes the Accelerator Pump Feature (used to add extra gas upon immediate throttle up - it’s a Digital version of what carbs do when you hit the gas). This allowed you to smooth out the instant response and is particularly useful smoothing response when low-speed maneuvering and on some of the more twitchy bikes. Again onlylicensed tuners can accss this...
I bought a PC6 early before Dynojet got exposed for these shady changes and none of it was in the manual or website... They did not and still don’t have a suitable PC6 map for my bike.. despite promises etc.. I’ve had several aftermarket ECU’s and piggybacks in cars over the years but none were a scam like what Dynojet has pulled in the 6... Removing core function, hiding the actual tuning maps, forcing you to pay more for same features in the previous model, restricting rangea of change and falsey advertising initially.. It should cost 1/2 for what they removed..
If you want to only tune out popping, have 2 maps and idle control it will do it but its seat of the pants tuning. I highly advise avoiding the timing module unless you plan to pay a DJ tuner do it for you.. If you can find a PC3 or PCV (PC5) they are the way to go..