07-01-2022, 06:46 AM
(11-30-2020, 08:19 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote:(11-29-2020, 10:21 PM)EmptySea_imp Wrote: My bike is already taken to someone — it’s in the shop now, presumably with the old ECU removed. Also, I don’t know how to perform the reset that you describe. I have no doubt that it’s within my abilities, but my comment about asking the tech to do this was because I have neither the instructions nor the bike in my possession at this time.
You can do it, it's DIY without any special tool:
* If possible warm up the bike to get normal operating temp and idling (not necessary)
* Ignition OFF/key out from the ignition switch
* Disconnect both battery cables from the battery terminals, the negative cable first.
* Cover both battery terminals with a plastic bag/rag to prevent accidental cable to terminal reattachment.
* Join both cables (- &+) together for about 10 minutes. If the battery cables are too short, jumper wire can be used.
* Reconnect both cables back to the battery terminals, the positive cable first, then the negative.
* Ignition ON, wait until meters sweeping is completed 2-3 sec, start your bike and observe idling......
You can do it, it's DIY without any special tool:
* If possible warm up the bike to get normal operating temp and idling (not necessary)
* Ignition OFF/key out from the ignition switch
* Disconnect both battery cables from the battery terminals, the negative cable first.
* Cover both battery terminals with a plastic bag/rag to prevent accidental cable to terminal reattachment.
* Join both cables (- &+) together for about 10 minutes. If the battery cables are too short, jumper wire can be used.
* Reconnect both cables back to the battery terminals, the positive cable first, then the negative.
* Ignition ON, wait until meters sweeping is completed 2-3 sec, start your bike and observe idling...... Peter, I can't say for certain that you solved my high-idle problem, but it looks good at this point.
I had exactly the same problem on my '13 that MTC describes. Started a few months ago before it got hot here. So today I ran your ECU reset as described above and went for a ride. Bike ran as it is supposed to. Ambient air temp at around 96F and it was a relatively short ride, but enough stop and go to learn that the idle stayed at around 1200 to 1400 and never went up to 2000. This is very different from a few weeks ago when it would go to 2K when I stopped at the first stop sign a half mile from my house and repeat for the entire ride.
How could it be that simple? I hope it is. Also highly recommend this approach for any who have the high-idle problem.
PowerDubs, you were right, but this looks a little less expensive than replacing the ECU. Of course, if I were running a shop, I'd recommend that my mechanics replace the ECU just for liability protection.
Thanks again, Peter.
