06-21-2015, 05:17 AM
I have been playing with different adjustments on my pegs and thanks to forum member wiredgeorge sending me a message with some helpful advice, I am optimistic about finding some much needed comfort on the bike.
What I perceived to be the biggest issue actually was a simple fix. The side stand tab that was in the way needed to be bent down about an inch. It makes flicking the stand down a little awkward, but nothing I can't live with. That let's me position my shifter and footpeg just right on that side without the side stand tab impeding my boot moving around.
It was the brake pedal adjustment that was perplexing me. Wiredgeorge suggested changing the length of the push rod that actuate the plunger in the master cylinder. In my case, the rod is too long and bottoms out on the brake arm. I got my shop manual so I could see what parts are there and how I might go about altering the push rod shaft:
[url=http://s960.photobucket.com/user/Pflugerville_Bike_Guy/media/20150621_133936_zpsgj2wf3zn.jpg.html]![[Image: 73b72036774123c4cbb6be3a17b60d02.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201506/73b72036774123c4cbb6be3a17b60d02.jpg)
As you can see, the rod interfaces with the piston and is held in by a circlip. It also means that I can't simply remove it since that's what retains the piston and all the brake fluid. Cutting a small amount of threads off the bottom is the only way I could see to gain some additional adjustment. Cut too much off and I risk leaving too little space for the lock nut. Out came the dremel and cut off disc. I took 1/8 inch off and that ended up just about right. Could have gone 1/16 more, but better to cut too little off.
The last challenge came when I needed a very thin wrench to spin the threaded rod the last few turns. As you can see, not much space between the space between the 10 mm nut at the top of the push rod and the 12 mm lock nut is minimal which is due to me trimming that little bit off the bottom:
[url=http://s960.photobucket.com/user/Pflugerville_Bike_Guy/media/20150621_140035_zpsrpnz3mul.jpg.html]![[Image: 28bb349250201b0c4cec0e579ac6b270.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201506/28bb349250201b0c4cec0e579ac6b270.jpg)
I looked around for something I could use. I have a set of really thin wrenches used for adjusting bicycle hubs, but the smallest size I have is 11mm. The head of the wrench is really big, so it probably wouldn't have allowed me any room to swing the wrench. Crud, I'll have to make my own. Grabbed some scrap aluminum and went to work with the dremel tool. Got the basic shape cut out when I went to change bits and grabbed the little wrench used for tightening the collet. Doh! That's a 10mm wrench. I had an extra one from my recently deceased dremel tool, so I cut the little flat blade tip off so it fit in the small space better. Bam!
[url=http://s960.photobucket.com/user/Pflugerville_Bike_Guy/media/1434913782403_zpsmhfnywus.jpg.html]![[Image: 1fea4aed9c557ff430bef5482df9c63b.jpg]](https://cb1100forum.net/forum/uploads/imp/201506/1fea4aed9c557ff430bef5482df9c63b.jpg)
It's been raining off and on today, but it stopped long enough for the roads to dry and I snuck out for a spin around the block. The peg position is at full extension oriented 45 degrees down and aft. While not roomy to the extent of say my V-strom, it's noticeably better than before. The shifter is adjusted and very comfy to operate. The brake is still a tad high, but not awkward. I just have to lightly lift pressure off the peg and swing my toe over on top of the pedal. I'll stick with that and see how it goes with a proper ride. So far, so good.
Thanks again wiredgeorge!
What I perceived to be the biggest issue actually was a simple fix. The side stand tab that was in the way needed to be bent down about an inch. It makes flicking the stand down a little awkward, but nothing I can't live with. That let's me position my shifter and footpeg just right on that side without the side stand tab impeding my boot moving around.
It was the brake pedal adjustment that was perplexing me. Wiredgeorge suggested changing the length of the push rod that actuate the plunger in the master cylinder. In my case, the rod is too long and bottoms out on the brake arm. I got my shop manual so I could see what parts are there and how I might go about altering the push rod shaft:
[url=http://s960.photobucket.com/user/Pflugerville_Bike_Guy/media/20150621_133936_zpsgj2wf3zn.jpg.html]
As you can see, the rod interfaces with the piston and is held in by a circlip. It also means that I can't simply remove it since that's what retains the piston and all the brake fluid. Cutting a small amount of threads off the bottom is the only way I could see to gain some additional adjustment. Cut too much off and I risk leaving too little space for the lock nut. Out came the dremel and cut off disc. I took 1/8 inch off and that ended up just about right. Could have gone 1/16 more, but better to cut too little off.
The last challenge came when I needed a very thin wrench to spin the threaded rod the last few turns. As you can see, not much space between the space between the 10 mm nut at the top of the push rod and the 12 mm lock nut is minimal which is due to me trimming that little bit off the bottom:
[url=http://s960.photobucket.com/user/Pflugerville_Bike_Guy/media/20150621_140035_zpsrpnz3mul.jpg.html]
I looked around for something I could use. I have a set of really thin wrenches used for adjusting bicycle hubs, but the smallest size I have is 11mm. The head of the wrench is really big, so it probably wouldn't have allowed me any room to swing the wrench. Crud, I'll have to make my own. Grabbed some scrap aluminum and went to work with the dremel tool. Got the basic shape cut out when I went to change bits and grabbed the little wrench used for tightening the collet. Doh! That's a 10mm wrench. I had an extra one from my recently deceased dremel tool, so I cut the little flat blade tip off so it fit in the small space better. Bam!
[url=http://s960.photobucket.com/user/Pflugerville_Bike_Guy/media/1434913782403_zpsmhfnywus.jpg.html]
It's been raining off and on today, but it stopped long enough for the roads to dry and I snuck out for a spin around the block. The peg position is at full extension oriented 45 degrees down and aft. While not roomy to the extent of say my V-strom, it's noticeably better than before. The shifter is adjusted and very comfy to operate. The brake is still a tad high, but not awkward. I just have to lightly lift pressure off the peg and swing my toe over on top of the pedal. I'll stick with that and see how it goes with a proper ride. So far, so good.
Thanks again wiredgeorge!