02-02-2016, 09:57 AM
Each to his own I guess. Also some corners are different to others. If the throttle remains static as the corner is entered then the bike must slow down. Why? Same RPM but the effective diameter of the tyre decreases, therefore a few mph or kph are lost. Not a problem if you don't mind. When I tip in, assuming I'm happy with the entry point and entry speed, I increase throttle slightly to maintain the weight balance between front and rear and keep speed static. That is, to stop the front weighting up. Once I'm comfortable I may then increase throttle, but that is optional and only increases the "spirited" factor, nothing else. As Ferret rightly says, if you develop a style and it suites you, then there is no need to change unless you want to explore something else. Others who have a good level of expertise (like Ferret) are always worth listening to. In the early nineties I got my hands on a first model Fireblade (CBR 900RR), the first bike with any real performance I had ridden. It was a fair handful for me and, in retrospect, I reckon I was lucky to survive the first week on the road. I happened to run across a police motorcyclist who followed me around some roads (socially, not on business) and after a long talk changed my riding style completely and for the better. In the same manner an article on trail braking, that this forum pointed me to, gave me some food for thought. At 71 years young I still love to learn.
As far as touching down in corners goes I prefer feelers to boots for the reasons I mentioned in a previous post. I should have mentioned for Rboe's understanding that when you start to stand the bike up again to exit a corner then, sure, put your boot back to arch on the peg to facilitate gear changes, as normally it will be an up shift requiring the boot under the shifter. If leaned well over, to where a touchdown is likely, then an up shift (or down shift for that matter) is probably not a very good idea as, if you don't get it exactly right with no weight shift between front and rear, there is a likelihood of some interesting oscillations developing. If my boot, or peg, is dragging then I don't think a gear change is appropriate for my skill level. As far as the right boot is concerned, if braking is required much the same principal applies; if you are leaned over to the point where something is dragging, then be careful. Better to have entered at the right speed. If running wide is the problem then don't brake, fix your sight on the right line and lean the bike to achieve that line. Rolling off abruptly is also not a great idea at this stage as it weights the front up which may induce the aforementioned interesting oscillations. When the pegs are on the ground there is still plenty (well a little more anyway) left as the pedal pivots up and the line will tighten up. If hard braking in a big lean is required then I guess its not going to be a good day and the difference between toe or arch on the peg is probably insignificant.
Cheers.
As far as touching down in corners goes I prefer feelers to boots for the reasons I mentioned in a previous post. I should have mentioned for Rboe's understanding that when you start to stand the bike up again to exit a corner then, sure, put your boot back to arch on the peg to facilitate gear changes, as normally it will be an up shift requiring the boot under the shifter. If leaned well over, to where a touchdown is likely, then an up shift (or down shift for that matter) is probably not a very good idea as, if you don't get it exactly right with no weight shift between front and rear, there is a likelihood of some interesting oscillations developing. If my boot, or peg, is dragging then I don't think a gear change is appropriate for my skill level. As far as the right boot is concerned, if braking is required much the same principal applies; if you are leaned over to the point where something is dragging, then be careful. Better to have entered at the right speed. If running wide is the problem then don't brake, fix your sight on the right line and lean the bike to achieve that line. Rolling off abruptly is also not a great idea at this stage as it weights the front up which may induce the aforementioned interesting oscillations. When the pegs are on the ground there is still plenty (well a little more anyway) left as the pedal pivots up and the line will tighten up. If hard braking in a big lean is required then I guess its not going to be a good day and the difference between toe or arch on the peg is probably insignificant.
Cheers.