ARKansas - June 2015

[emptysea]

Day 7: Davenport, Iowa to Fennimore, Wisconsin


I need to laugh and when the sun is out
I've got something I can laugh about
I feel good in a special way
I'm in love and it's a sunny day. -- From the Beatles song "Good Day Sunshine"

I don't think it rained this day. In fact, if I recall, it was sunny all day long--for once. We had planned a short day of riding, but a long day of soaking up the local flavors and we were fortunate enough not to soak up any more rain.

The morning started bright and sunny and with me sitting cross-legged on the asphalt behind the Fairfield Inn, plastic table knife from the dining area in hand, scraping gum from the left rubber-coated foot peg on my wife's CTX. I used the serrated blade of the knife to score the soft pink blob and then rubbed some dirt I dug up from the nearby landscaping into the gum to try to get rid of the stickiness. I'm sure that there are more efficient ways to remove gum from a foot peg, and I'm sure that some of you are already typing your remedies, but I don't really need to know them at this point. The gum/dirt mixture, as it turned out, made a lovely non-skid surface for her feet and by the afternoon, there was no trace of Bazooka remaining.

Today's route would be the last of our northbound routes for the trip. We would head in that direction for most of the day, following the west bank of the Mississippi. The last third of the day would take us east across the river and into Wisconsin. The combination of fun roads and great stops would make this one of the best off-the-cuff day tours I've been on.

Our first hop was just a short one up US67 which is State Street in Davenport and is part of The Great River Road National Scenic Byway which links sections of road in various states on both sides of the Mississippi. Most of the Great River Road is, in fact, what most would call "scenic" with tress and bluffs and rock outcroppings. The section through Davenport is commercial and industrial, but I find that riding through industrial areas is scenic in its own way, especially if it's early enough in the morning that traffic is minimal.

We rode past the Quad Cities Convention Center, standing empty on this early Friday morning. A little further along was a huge Alcoa plant or warehouse. Beyond that, there were numerous smaller manufacturing operations, a few building contractors' offices, and some self-storage operations. All along, the river is close, but cannot be seen because the road is atop a bluff and, of course, buildings obscure the view. I definitely sensed its proximity, though.

We exited Davenport and, in very short order, we were in Le Claire, Iowa and at our first stop of the day's tour -- Antique Archeology.

For those of you who are not aware, Antique Archeology is, at its core essentially an antique shop and it and its owners are featured in the reality TV show "American Pickers". We spent about an hour here, looking at all the old cars and motorcycles, parts of old cars and motorcycles, and books about old cars and motorcycles. We also enjoyed the various pieces of Americana on display and the extensive gift shop. I don't watch "American Pickers" myself, but Antique Archeology is a worth-it stop.

Antique Archeology

There is no truth to the rumor that Ulvetanna has a stockpile of these available free to those of us in need of assistance.
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"Hey Glen...How'd they know you were 66?" (then ducking)
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Cool cool jacket.
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Wanted to steal this sign, but I didn't think it would fit in my dry bag.
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Next up was the 100 mile Le Claire to Balltown hop. Balltown is just a spit past Dubuque, Iowa and is perched pretty much atop the highest ridge in the immediate vicinity. The town has three things going for it as far as I am concerned: It is in the middle of one of the best riding sections of The Great River Road, It has a scenic overlook that really puts great emphasis on both the scenic and the overlook, and it has pie. Specifically Breitbach's Country Dining's pie.

I first heard of Breitbach's from a friend of mine who stops there on his annual "guy's fishing and camping trip". I have written about it on this forum twice before. Both times telling how we did not stop here because my brother-in-law, who was leading both rides, is not a big dessert guy. Fortunately, this crew is chock-full of dessert guys. Some of them are even girls.

The pie was great. I don't recall what variety I had, but I recall deliciousness. If you're ever even close to Balltown, stop in at Breitbach's. Also, ask if anyone sells a "Welcome to Balltown" t-shirt in XL. I'll pay you back.

Breitbach's

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After pie, we walked up the remainder of the hill to the scenic overlook. It's not a long walk, but it helped burn off a few calories. I was too dense to take a panoramic photo here. From this point, it is farm buildings and fertile farmland for as far as the eye can see with the longest river in North America and the fourth longest river in the world cutting through it.

Scenic Overlook - The Mississippi is out there; just beyond the dark green stand of trees.
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The Great River Road is called Balltown Rd. when it passes Breitbach's then changes it's name to Ridge Rd., but most riders in the area just call it by it's county highway name of C9Y. C9Y is a delightful ribbon of two-lane road with hills and turns, few crossing roads, and some terrific vistas. It's only problem is that it is far too short. Just 15 or so miles of excitement and then TGRR follows US52 and then County Hwy. X56 to US18 where we would cross the Big Muddy into Praire du Chien, Wisconsin.

Prairie du Chien is a pretty cool river town. It's one of the oldest cities in Wisconsin and has been a battle site in several wars dating back to the 1700s. We've visited before and will again, but Glen had another stopping point in mind.

Immediately south of Prairie du Chien, the Wisconsin River empties into the Mississippi. Along the south bank of the Wisconsin and the east bank of the Mississippi is the Wyalusing State Forest and State Park. Glen thought this would be a good place for a "bike and hike" stop.

Our group, more accurately, the women in our group, enjoy getting off the bikes and walking around in nature every now and again. We sometimes set up day rides specifically with a hiking destination in mind. These "bike and hikes" are generally greatly enjoyed by the women and grudgingly tolerated by the guys. Although, truth be told, the guys like these strolls more than we let on.

The entrance road was under major construction when we arrived at the park. There's a bit of a hill and there was a little consternation among some of our group as we forged ahead. The worry was for naught, though, as the trip up to the parking lot was uneventful.

The park is beautiful. Truly. There are several lookout points where you can see to the north and west. There are, or so I was told by the girls, several hiking paths in the park. I was in the mood for a cigar and so, it seemed, were the rest of guys. The ladies went on their way and we found a nice, unoccupied seating area where we spent most of our stay.

The views from the park are spectacular, perched as it is high above the confluence of these two great rivers. I really enjoyed our "bike and (non) hike" stop.

Wyalusing state park

Really didn't notice the tracks crossing in front of us until the train came. It was fascinating to watch a freight train "float" over the river.
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After seeing this picture on Facebook, my sister titled it "Motorcycle Bums"
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The last hop of the day took us from Wyalusing State Park to Fennimore, Wisconsin where we had reservations at Napp's Motel.

Laura had booked us in to this place based on Fennimore's proximity on our route back home and on Trip Advisor reviews. It was only after she booked the rooms that she learned that this was the same cheap motel I have visited on trout fishing trips to the area. Of all the cheap motels in all of Wisconsin.....

The cool part about staying at this particular motel is that we got to ride the country roads that follow the Big Green River which is my favorite trout stream in all of Southwest Wisconsin and which is neither big nor green. What it is is narrow and twisty. I guess I like my trout streams like I like my motorcycle roads.

It is important to point out that I have never caught a fish on my favorite trout stream. Fly fishing for me is not about the catching of the fish; with my fishing skills, it can't be about that. I love the solitude there. I love that I'm trout fishing in a cow pasture. I love the smell of wild mint and the calls of the red-winged blackbirds. I love trying to roll cast to an undercut bank. I'm a terrible fisherman, but I love fishing.

We followed County C until it crossed the Little Green, which is both. A left then a quick right and we were on K and riding along the Big Green. Both roads have lots of curves and K runs along a valley which makes it especially pretty. I think that everyone enjoyed this last leg of the day, but I am certain that I enjoyed it most of all.

Knapp's Motel

Not much to look at, but it's clean and affordable.
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We dined at The Silent Woman which is located inside the Fenway House Hotel. It's probably the fanciest restaurant in town. I imagine that this is where the young men take their dates before their prom. Food was good. Service was indifferent. Prices were fair. The conversation and laughter with my good friends was 5-star.

End of Day 7