Whitehouse K17 mods...

[Bazbro_imp]

Wot I dun this arfternoon...

REMOVING THE OLD EXHAUST SYSTEM...

So... taking off the old, damaged exhaust system... the first job was removing the LH silencer. I'm going to try and work only on the left side first and then do the right later, because of the space constraints in my workshop.

Remove rear nut/bolt (12mm) and then underneath the engine, to loosen the clamp between the silencer and pipe (12mm again)



Under the engine, the pipe clamp...


Wiggle and pull and... Silencer off!



Then loosen the exhaust header clamp nuts (12mm). Another disturbing example of an, albeit very small, amount of rust on the nuts...





Now this is where it started to get 'problematic'. A further 12mm nut/bolt below the engine, needed removing in order to pull out the exhaust pipe...



But the instructions said "Remove the O2 sensor"... I couldn't even SEE the sensor and could barely touch it. I couldn't slide out the exhaust pipe because of it, so I sat back, had a mug of tea and a biscuit, and pondered the problem.

What I'd taken to be a large "engine component" covering the rear is, in fact, just a plastic cover, held on by three 5mm hex bolts. Removing this cover gave superb access to the left side O2 sensor and ability to see the exhaust under the engine. I wish I had removed it as the very first task! It also needs the gearshift to be slid off the selector shaft, by undoing a 10mm bolt on the sector.



Now it bacame easy and straightforward... The nut on the sensor of my 2018 model is clearly accessible, unlike the 'sunken'/hidden ones of earlier models. A 17mm OE spanner soon had it undone...



The O2 sensor becomes clearly visible...


A 17mm spanner soon sorts it out...!


The new position of these sensors is on the new Wyvern exhaust 'cross piece', so there needs to be more cable available to move this sensor rearwards. The (long) cable is clipped under the fuel injector Number 1 - so remove the plastic LH air cleaner cover (one plastic JIS screw), pull off the cover and you can see the clip retaining several cables. Select the O2 sensor cable, unclip it and move the sensor back and under the swing arm, ready to screw into the new exhaust crosspiece. I have not secured this yet, not until I do the RH side, but this MUST BE PROPERLY SECURED, because the cable could run right alongside the gearbox sprocket and chain and become fouled. I will pay great attention to this when I do the other side.



Now we came to the difficult bit - removing the main stand. I recommend two people to tackle this. If you're doing this job on the ground, it will be very difficult. I think. If you're doing it on a bench and actually using the main stand it will still be difficult, I guess, until you suport the 'bike by other means. My CB110 was jacked up under the engine, so the stand was easily "get at-able", once I'd figured out how it worked. I did not have a 'spring puller' so I went to do what I've always done with centre stands, just pull out the hinge bolt(s). In this case though, I had a problem... the hinge bolt is very long and jammed before I could pull it right out. So... I tapped the upper end of the spring off the piece of frame holding it, and BOINGGG! The spring popped off and the stand was free, held on only by the hinge rod. This rod is captive, with a small, almost hidden, 5mm hex bolt holding it in, situated ABOVE the right hand side. Undo that bolt and tap and manipulate the hollow rod out ( I used a large hex key). The stand is now free and can be removed.

Note the small flange that the retaining bolt fits through.


The spring hooks onto a small piece welded onto the frame - i just pushed/tapped it sideways (with hammer.and long screwdriver!) to push it off.


I've loosely fitted the LH silencers and Number 1 exhaust pipe, keeping the protective cling film/bubble to prevent accidental damage. The job continues tomorrow...



Battle recommences tomorrow, when I'll explain about measuring and fitting the brackets.