Whitehouse K17 mods...

[Bazbro_imp]

Replace the damaged rear mudguard (fender). The rear light had already been "removed" in the accident - just the wiring left dangling...

The workshop manual says to first remove the cover for the battery. I took this to mean the tool tray, but I'd removed the side covers anyway. Then "lift off the fuse box" - it took me a while to figure out HOW it was secured - Picture shows the part to press with a thin-bladed screwdriver to allow it to be lifted away from a small bracket.



Pushed to one side, that permits the rear stop/tail light wire to be disconnected. The correct wire needs to be separated from the left and right indicator wires and the seat lock cable.



It took me a moment to work out what part of the connector needed to be pushed/pulled to separate them. The handy little screwdriver blade shows where to press.



The grabrail needed to be removed (it's damaged but it makes wiring access easier if removed). Secured by simple 12mm bolts EXCEPT the 6mm hex bolt head has the centre filled with a shaped piece of rubbery plastic. It was not easy to dig it out - a screw helped, although it marked the surface. If I did it again, I'd try a piece of stiff wire on the edge to avoid damage.



Four 10mm nuts and two bolts hold the mudguard to the frame and it lifts off of two small "tongues" inserted in the plastic at the front - don't forget to locate these when replacing the mudguard. Two "collars" are inserted in the lock moulding where the two bolts pass through and they proved problematic on reassembly, so i resorted to holding THEM in situ with gaffer tape until the bolts had located them. I also temporarily secured the two halves if the lock mechanism together with gaffer tape until bolted up - it made the whole job easier. It needs two pairs of hands otherwise (I wonder how they do it in the factory? ).







I was shocked at the amount of, admittedly low-level, rust evident under the old mudguard on what is a virtually brand new 'bike - just 165 miles on the road. It wasn't stored in damp conditions either.





So I've run ACF50 underneath the new mudguard, spraying and brushing it, and allowing gravity to get it to run under welded pieces and folds where rust WILL start (in a UK climate!). Before I fitted the still-dripping mudguard, I covered the rear tyre with a cloth and cleaned the odd drips with brake cleaner.





Success - the new mudguard in place.



Running the rear stop/tail light wire down into the dedicated "tunnel" on the underside of the mudguard was made easier because the connectors on the end had been ripped off in the accident, so just three wire ends needed to be poked through the hole under the lock. I'd already secured the mudguard before I realised this step was needed, so I released one securing bolt and loosened the other to give sufficient "wiggle room" to push the wire through. Three holes need to be drilled to secure Samurider's CB750 replica tail light assembly.



After drilling the holes, I need to obtain an oval grommet or boot to protect the tail light wire as it comes out of the mudguard. I also need some grommets to lift the rear light and permit the wire to enter. I hope my Honda dealer will help here.
I also need to peel off the underseat stickers on the old mudguard and reattach to the new one. I'll try a hairdryer and see if that works.