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RE: Crank Case Cover removal?
I rebuilt a couple of BSA Lightning motors decades ago.
The removal of the first 1966 crankcase cover was easy because gasket sealant was not used by the factory.
It was important to make note of where each screw went when you removed them because the Lightning has several different lengths.
I don't whether or not the Honda does.
The BSA had a flimsy paper gasket.
I gave each side a thin coat of Vaseline so it would stick somewhat to the crankcase.
That allowed me to smooth it out and place it properly.
Secondly the gasket could move some without tearing or folding when the cover and screws were added.
The screws and cover were placed loosely from the center of the top around to the center of the bottom.
That allowed the gasket and cover to seat properly.
The screws were then tightened.
That case did not leak.
The second case was on a 10 year old 1971 BSA Lightning.
The gasket had been treated with Red Hermetite sealant.
Because it could not move, it had folded and torn in places.
The owner smeared the cases with Red Hermetite to stop the leaks.
After 10 years on a hot engine, it was a pain to remove and clean.
That was about 40 years ago, so I don't remember what nasty solvent I used to clean it. Could have been a paint stripper.
The new gasket was added as described above and did not leak.
Red Hermetite was the go to sealant in those days.
But it was supposed to be used when putting metal on metal together.
Unlike a lot of the Japanese crankcases, the halves of the BSA crankcases were split vertically. So they would leak if not sealed properly.
I used a stiff artist's brush to a apply a very thin coat on each case.
There were streaks in the first coat. It was left to get tacky.
Then a second thin coat was applied that smoothed everything out.
The crankshaft, heavy flywheel and transmission made it awkward to put the cases together. Just to make more interesting, one of the rear motor mounts and it bottom bolt had to added before the cases were closed. If not, the bolt could not be added afterwards.
Love British engineering!
If thin coats were used, the Hermetite did not squish out and make mess when the cases were torqued together.
Unfortunately a lot of owners did nor realize this and the cases would leak.
They would then add glops of Red Hermetite over the leaks and make a ugly mess.
Fortunately they would get a second try 10,000 miles later when the motor had to be rebuilt.
And we complain when the valve clearance has to be checked every 16,000 miles on our Hondas.
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