Finally got to actually ride it.

[Jambo_imp]

I’m at 100whp and 72wtq on the dyno with stock ECU, so neutered ign timing and redline. Could have used a little more fuel.

I then put the Guhls ecu in and crashed the bike on the first ride afterward - only a few miles from my house.

Bikes fixed- I just haven’t been back out on it yet. Need to re-register and insure.

Should make better numbers now.

Also have Ikon rear shocks and ‘17 DBV forks. Both are excellent.





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Which Ikons did you get? I wrote them complaining that their website provides little information on the differences between 7610 and 7614. Also where is the spring rate chart? They responded telling me a few more specs and that they are revamping their web presence. It appears for the extra 50%, you get more PL instability and gas charging. They said the springs are chosen at checkout. I am giving thought to the 7614's. The DBV is the Delux?
Can you summarize what were the total mods done?

Both. I put Ikon's on the back that helped immensely and added a couple turns of preload on the front which helped a little. The front is still soft but better.

Did you change springs or fork oil?
UPDATE: Put in the K&N Air Filter in the Air Box today. No mods to the box. I did wash out the snout and dry it. The K&N comes pre-oiled. I was not sure as it does not feel greasy, so I called them to confirm that was the case (it was) before I sprayed more K&N filter oil (I already had) on it.
I was wondering if the installation of the K&N AF was going to lean it out to the point where I would notice fueling issues after installation. It did not. BTW the stock air filter looks to have about the same surface area as the K&N and was pretty clean. If there is any additional flow at all, I think it is not much, therefore if you want the K&N, then I say you are buying it just for the re-usability. Went for an hour ride on back roads and had them mostly to myself. The performance was the same and am happy to say that the filter addition does not seem to make a material difference in the quality of the fueling. I did not notice any hesitation or backfiring on down-shifting (of which I did a lot). I did not notice any performance improvement, or if there was any, it was subtle enough that it was unnoticeable to me. Everything from cruising at almost idle in 6th, to the redline seemed pretty much spot on to me (still).

To recap (in terms of engine performance, I did the following:
1) Full Delkevic with 14" CF canister with the baffle intact (not removed)
2) Stock O2 sensor scavenged from stock exhaust system
3) PCV with downloaded map of CB1100 + full Yoshimura pipe and stock air filter
4) K&N Air Filter

I had to make that 1" bracket to move the Delkevic "stock" mounting location back to the frame mounting location to ensure the exhaust is tight (which makes their mount about 1" forward of the stock mount. I did not use the RTV and do not hear any exhaust leakage. The provided pipe rings/gaskets in combination with the beefy exhaust clamps firmly snugged seem to make a good seal, making the use of the provided RTV not needed.

I bought the companion Dynojet Autotuner with the PCV, but have not yet installed it. I will likely leave that mod to the Spring, especially since I have to hack and weld my mid-pipe in order to the use the Wideband O2 sensor the AT came with, but I don't think it is necessary. At least with #1-4 mods performed above. The fueling is good everywhere as it stands, and I may leave well enough alone or just put it in to play with it with my copious amounts of spare time, since it is paid for already. Knowing what I know now, I would not have purchased the AT for MY application, and I think the money would have been better spent on the Ikons. It would be nice if Progressive made a unit that fits the CB1100, as it would have been likely more affordable.

The Delkevic full system is surprisingly affordably priced for what you get. The stainless steel looks high quality, and is a good kit down to the details like quality clamps and hardware. They have already turned a nice mellow golden brown hue with only 200 miles. The exhaust note is also quite pleasing, especially getting on it, and it sounds very bassy and throaty. Almost like a twin in terms of low frequency (with an obvious inline four sound). The CF can looks great with the black frame and black color scheme of the bike on mine. I don't think I will take the baffle out, as it doesn't need to be removed, need any louder sound, or more hp and freer flow.

At this point, I am also unlikely to do the Guhls ECU (not saying there is anything wrong with that if you did so), as IMHO I don't think the bike needs it. The improvement in hp and torque with #1-4 alone has provided a larger than typical increase in performance over stock than you normally get from an exhaust replacement. The Guhls may ditch the premature rev limiter, but I don't think that matters much. I ride fairly aggressively, but I find myself shifting in advance of the limiter anyway, just bouncing off it because I could, not because I needed to. The bike pulls very strongly without hesitation in any of the first 5 gears, in almost any rpm as it is. I am pretty happy with the results so far, and if there was any performance improvement through the use of the AT, then that would just be icing on the cake to me. The current hp the bike makes is already enough to overwhelm the traction of the less than stellar tires (mine are new) with their less than optimum sizing (compare to supersports). The bike already feels like it wants to loft the front wheel as it is.

I will probably not dyno it as it does not feel like it needs to be to resolve any fueling issue, and I don't think knowing how much hp it makes is that relevant (to me), even though I have a friend who has a DJ dyno and does not charge much (lives 2 hr roundtrip though).

I also don't think I am going to bother doing any air box modifications, as I don't think it needs that either.

I am happy with the performance I now have with the CB.