07-15-2018, 12:43 AM
(07-14-2018, 05:02 PM)Flynrider_imp Wrote: For this purpose, your analog meter should do just fine. All you really need is a voltage reading from the battery with the bike running. If it shows normal battery voltage or less, you have a charging problem. If it's mid 13v to mid 14v, the alternator is working and the battery is likely not accepting the charge.
I know what you mean about the early 80s CB650 charging system. That thing was anemic even when the (delicate) stator was brand new.
Yes, +1, ditto.
Until I inherited my dad's Fluke 77, my testing was done with a $30 Radio Shack pocket auto ranging digital meter. They have also been gifts to kids and grandkids. Don't think they are still available. https://www.radioshack.com/products/radi...multimeter
An analog meter has the advantage of being able to give a basic test to capacitors.
(07-14-2018, 05:02 PM)Flynrider_imp Wrote: For this purpose, your analog meter should do just fine. All you really need is a voltage reading from the battery with the bike running. If it shows normal battery voltage or less, you have a charging problem. If it's mid 13v to mid 14v, the alternator is working and the battery is likely not accepting the charge.
I know what you mean about the early 80s CB650 charging system. That thing was anemic even when the (delicate) stator was brand new.
To know if the charging system is 13.8 to 14.8, yes.
However, I was looking for more:
Key off is battery voltage, with 12.8 showing a full charge. It not fully charged, it will affect further testing.
Key on shows extent of drop under headlight load. Instead of 12.6 (maybe 12.5), it will be less if a cell has failed.
While cranking, under 10.5 will show a bad cell. This is a poor man's load test.
(07-14-2018, 10:27 PM)Lord Popgun_imp Wrote: The parts man at my dealer puts a pretty expensive digital battery tester on every battery he sells whether OEM or aftermarket (they sell both). The tester runs a number of tests. He said OEM or aftermarket has failed new out of the box. And better to know at the parts counter than back in your garage or wherever.
Yes, new does not always equal good.
When I buy a new battery, I bring a pocket VOM with me and check the mfg date.
(07-14-2018, 01:30 PM)jerrycon_imp Wrote:(07-14-2018, 12:58 PM)SportsterDoc_imp Wrote: What was the cost of the battery test at the dealer?$109, which is their hourly labor rate
Sad litany of excuses below for not doing the job myself:
[ul] [li]heat wave (can't use that one on you)[/li] [li]official paperwork for my Amazon refund (not necessarily needed)[/li] [li]need to buy a digital multimeter (still using my analog one from 1976)[/li] [li]official record with Honda in case it happens again[/li] [li]scarred by the memory of my 1981 or 1982 CB650 ownership experience--permanent electrical/charging issues
[/li][/ul]
But those are all just excuses. Armed with knowledge gleaned from your [url=http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=13023&pid=212135#pid212135]Post #7 - Battery Voltages and the new digital multimeter I am finally going to buy, I will easily go a level deeper next time around.
P.S. If you know of a good digital multimeter in the $100 range, I will happily take a recommendation.
The dealer has to pay labor, cover costs of a building, equipment, insurance, business licenses, etc. $109 is not high and I expect it is a one hour minimum charge.
However, with a VOM in hand, those tests only take a few minutes, once you access the battery posts.