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Rattling noise at idle.
#21
If you're going with a fully synthetic, you can make the transition whenever you want. No need to wait a certain number of miles.
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#22
Not saying I agree or disagree with this, but found it interesting after searching for engine break-in and synthetic oil...

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how...a-new-car/
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#23
Cool read. The way engines are assembled today finding metal particles is extremely unlikely. I've usually done the first oil change anywhere from 300 to 500 miles and gone to synthetic with no issues. But, I say do whatever one is most comfortable with. You only have to make yourself happy Wink
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#24
Any issues with clutch slippage on full synthetic. Two dealers are telling me that they only put the 10W30 full synthetic in their motocross bike, but not the road bikes. They both encouraged me to use semi-synthetic oil. Of course you have to go to a different brand than Honda for that. Might just go back to regular Honda 10W30 and see if it gets back to normal as it was before the 600 miles service when the dealer put in the 10W40...
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#25
No. I use synthetic in everything. Everyone else I ride with does too. No slip Smile I can't believe a "dealer" would say that unless they lived under a rock for the past several decades.
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#26
(04-02-2015, 02:19 PM)Motogeezer1949_imp Wrote: No. I use synthetic in everything. Everyone else I ride with does too. No slip Smile I can't believe a "dealer" would say that unless they lived under a rock for the past several decades.

Thanks. Yep, both Sun Honda and Fay Meyers here in Denver told me not to go full synthetic...
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#27
(04-02-2015, 02:02 PM)Ghis_imp Wrote: Any issues with clutch slippage on full synthetic. Two dealers are telling me that they only put the 10W30 full synthetic in their motocross bike, but not the road bikes. They both encouraged me to use semi-synthetic oil. Of course you have to go to a different brand than Honda for that. Might just go back to regular Honda 10W30 and see if it gets back to normal as it was before the 600 miles service when the dealer put in the 10W40...

Semi-synthetic would be off my list. Either go with Honda 10-30 Dino GN4 or full Syn HP4 Either are good oils.
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#28
(03-31-2015, 01:30 PM)Ghis_imp Wrote: Hello all,
I'm new to the forum. I just purchase my 2013 CB1100 a couple weeks ago from a Honda dealer where the bike had been sitting for two years unsold. The bike has about 700 miles now, and I'm hearing a sound I don't like. At idle only, there is a rattling sound coming from what seems to be the lower part or bottom of the engine. It sounds like something is loose, however it disappears once I rev it up or the bike warms up after a few minutes. When I ride, it's all good. If I let the bike sit for about 3 hours, and restart it, the rattling is there. From a completely cold engine, there is no rattling. Anyone experienced this? Am I just worrying for not much? Though the sounds surely doesn't sound normal. I've own many bikes, including Kawasakis, Yamahas, Suzukis, Triumphs, and Harleys, but this is my first Honda. I'm used to hearing noises that are just the bike being what it is, but I'm thinking my new CB may have an issue. I thought I'd check here and see what you guys think before I decide to take it back to the dealer. The dealer performed the 600 miles service, and put in Honda 10W40 instead of the 10W30 the manual says to put in. The dealer says their manual says either or depending on the season.

my bike has rattling noise also at idle, sound like something is loose and it goes away when riding it. I can't determine where the noise come from. Now at 10K, the noise is gone when idle. I guess whatever rattle now settle with others

I don't believe your bike has some loose bolts or such. Don't worry
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#29
(04-02-2015, 02:02 PM)Ghis_imp Wrote: Any issues with clutch slippage on full synthetic. Two dealers are telling me that they only put the 10W30 full synthetic in their motocross bike, but not the road bikes. They both encouraged me to use semi-synthetic oil. Of course you have to go to a different brand than Honda for that. Might just go back to regular Honda 10W30 and see if it gets back to normal as it was before the 600 miles service when the dealer put in the 10W40...
Just a point of clarification. HONDA HP4 oil is a petroleum-synthetic blend. HP4S is full synthetic, HP4M is synthetic blend with Moly (friction modifier) added. The M is used in the engine side of CRF motocross bikes, for instance, and the regular HP4 in the gearbox/clutch side.
There are various training programs available to dealers through manufacturers. YAMAHA service training tells us that approximately 63% of what we tell a customer is processed (heard) and of that percentage only 52% is internalized (understood).
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#30
(04-02-2015, 02:02 PM)Ghis_imp Wrote: Any issues with clutch slippage on full synthetic. Two dealers are telling me that they only put the 10W30 full synthetic in their motocross bike, but not the road bikes. They both encouraged me to use semi-synthetic oil. Of course you have to go to a different brand than Honda for that. Might just go back to regular Honda 10W30 and see if it gets back to normal as it was before the 600 miles service when the dealer put in the 10W40...

This mixes two different issues. The clutch slippage issues happen if you use oil that has excessive friction modifiers (typically found in car oils). This can happen with both mineral and synthetic oils. What you want is an oil that complies with the JASO-MA specification. That ensures that the oil does not contain friction modifiers that will affect a motorcycle wet clutch. You can find both synthetic and mineral oils that meet the JASO-MA spec and either will be fine for your wet clutch.
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