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Thought I was done with the CB - trying again (forks)
#61
(09-06-2018, 04:41 AM)PowerDubs_imp Wrote: I just put the bike on the center stand and weight on the seat.


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That's what I did too, I used the two sand bags I have for ballast for my sidecar.
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#62
(09-05-2018, 09:11 PM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: So, just to clarify, NO mistake please, 2017 forks will perfectly fit 2014 without any further/additional mods, just a simple swap, correct ??.
Thanks.
Perfect fit on my 2014 Dlx.
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#63
Curious to know which is cheaper? Adreani adjustable fork inserts or the 2017 forks. Anyone know? I bought the inserts before the 2017 came out.


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#64
If you want comfort- 2017 forks

If you want sport- all the other mods


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#65
I think that with the Adreani's you can not go back to stock as you have to ' grind ' of a ridge on the old forks to make them fit.
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#66
(08-27-2018, 04:58 AM)DBM_imp Wrote: Does anyone have a picture or illistration showing the 2014 damper rods? Im thinking about drilling the compression holes slightly bigger, and running 15 wt. fork oil with the spring preload full stiff. This should free up the compression to help with the harshness on bumps and slow down the rebound to control the stiff spring setting. Which holes are the compression control and which holes are the rebound control?

Hey DBM,
the larger holes towards the bottom of the damper rod control compression damping, in conjunction with the oil weight of course. The smaller holes towards the top of the damper rod serve for rebound damping.
I don't know of anyone who has had success messing around with enlarging the holes. Although it will alter the effective damping it won't correct the 'bad' behaviour whereby there is not enough damping for slow bumps and too much damping for fast bumps. Fitting emulators requires the compression holes in the damping rod to be enlarged so that the emulator takes full control of the damping through its smaller holes plus the spring release mechanism. Rebound then becomes adjustable simply by altering the fork oil weight. This is definitely the least expensive method to create an adjustable front end that actually behaves like a much more expensive set of forks. If you're interested in how they work the folks at Racetech have a great technical description on their web site:

http://racetech.com/HTML_FILES/DampingRodForks.HTML
(09-07-2018, 12:04 PM)Houtman_imp Wrote: I think that with the Adreani's you can not go back to stock as you have to ' grind ' of a ridge on the old forks to make them fit.

Yep, but they are worth the commitment.
here's a link to a post where I have loosely explained the process:

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=12036
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#67
(09-07-2018, 12:19 PM)Aussieflyer_imp Wrote:
(08-27-2018, 04:58 AM)DBM_imp Wrote: Does anyone have a picture or illistration showing the 2014 damper rods? Im thinking about drilling the compression holes slightly bigger, and running 15 wt. fork oil with the spring preload full stiff. This should free up the compression to help with the harshness on bumps and slow down the rebound to control the stiff spring setting. Which holes are the compression control and which holes are the rebound control?

Hey DBM,
the larger holes towards the bottom of the damper rod control compression damping, in conjunction with the oil weight of course. The smaller holes towards the top of the damper rod serve for rebound damping.
I don't know of anyone who has had success messing around with enlarging the holes. Although it will alter the effective damping it won't correct the 'bad' behaviour whereby there is not enough damping for slow bumps and too much damping for fast bumps. Fitting emulators requires the compression holes in the damping rod to be enlarged so that the emulator takes full control of the damping through its smaller holes plus the spring release mechanism. Rebound then becomes adjustable simply by altering the fork oil weight. This is definitely the least expensive method to create an adjustable front end that actually behaves like a much more expensive set of forks. If you're interested in how they work the folks at Racetech have a great technical description on their web site:

http://racetech.com/HTML_FILES/DampingRodForks.HTML
(09-07-2018, 12:04 PM)Houtman_imp Wrote: I think that with the Adreani's you can not go back to stock as you have to ' grind ' of a ridge on the old forks to make them fit.

Yep, but they are worth the commitment.
here's a link to a post where I have loosely explained the process:

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=12036

Hey DBM,
the larger holes towards the bottom of the damper rod control compression damping, in conjunction with the oil weight of course. The smaller holes towards the top of the damper rod serve for rebound damping.
I don't know of anyone who has had success messing around with enlarging the holes. Although it will alter the effective damping it won't correct the 'bad' behaviour whereby there is not enough damping for slow bumps and too much damping for fast bumps. Fitting emulators requires the compression holes in the damping rod to be enlarged so that the emulator takes full control of the damping through its smaller holes plus the spring release mechanism. Rebound then becomes adjustable simply by altering the fork oil weight. This is definitely the least expensive method to create an adjustable front end that actually behaves like a much more expensive set of forks. If you're interested in how they work the folks at Racetech have a great technical description on their web site:

http://racetech.com/HTML_FILES/DampingRodForks.HTML
(09-07-2018, 12:04 PM)Houtman_imp Wrote: I think that with the Adreani's you can not go back to stock as you have to ' grind ' of a ridge on the old forks to make them fit.

Yep, but they are worth the commitment.
here's a link to a post where I have loosely explained the process:

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=12036 Thank you Ausse. The harshness felt on bumps with the stock forks is from too much compression damping, right?
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#68
(09-07-2018, 10:01 AM)chync_imp Wrote: Curious to know which is cheaper? Adreani adjustable fork inserts or the 2017 forks. Anyone know? I bought the inserts before the 2017 came out.


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How much is your time worth? I did the fork swap in about 1 hour, but evidently I am pretty slow compared to other guys who have performed the swap. My time is worth a lot to me, and it just wasn't worth all the time and effort trying to make the stoke forks better.
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#69
I have the Adreani inserts and they are fantastic but I had a suspension tech build them. It was more expensive than the 2017 forks I believe.


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#70
(09-11-2018, 10:51 AM)Dave_imp Wrote:
(09-07-2018, 10:01 AM)chync_imp Wrote: Curious to know which is cheaper? Adreani adjustable fork inserts or the 2017 forks. Anyone know? I bought the inserts before the 2017 came out.


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How much is your time worth? I did the fork swap in about 1 hour, but evidently I am pretty slow compared to other guys who have performed the swap. My time is worth a lot to me, and it just wasn't worth all the time and effort trying to make the stoke forks better.

How much is your time worth? I did the fork swap in about 1 hour, but evidently I am pretty slow compared to other guys who have performed the swap. My time is worth a lot to me, and it just wasn't worth all the time and effort trying to make the stoke forks better.
I agree with you totally! I've spent a lot of time and effort trying to get the stock forks to a point where I enjoy the ride.

Guess what? I think that moment happened this morning.

Once Tom and I had pulled the Race Tech fork valves and changed back to the heavier Race Tech valve springs, it all felt right!

I am pleased that we were able to adjust the ride to where it works for me.

However, if the 2017 fork solution would have been available (or known) when I started working on the stock forks, I probably would have installed the 2017 forks (although I have no idea how they would work for me ...... it would have been done simply because Honda changed over to the the Showa Dual Bending Valves for a reason.) And I suspect the reason was that the stock shocks on pre-2017 CB1100s didn't provide a compliant ride for those of us in the 160# weight range. Especially on bad roads.

Anyway, if anyone wants to know what we did to make the ride more compliant for you light weights that ride a 2014, drop me a line,

Regards,

Bob
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