Chordless impact wrenches

[pdedse]

I'm in the middle of a suspension project for my DR650--putting on a new rear shock.  I got the shock out and decided it was a good time to check the swing arm pivot bolt and bearings, other linkage as sometimes from the factory they don't have much grease.  Indeed, I was able to pack in quite a bit more on the swing arm pivot bearings.  I moved on to the dog-bone links and one bolt I loosened fine to detach swing arm from the bike, but the other end of the dog-bones has another bolt with bearings.  And I cannot get this bolt free with what I have on hand.

I've tried PB Blaster, applying heat, I'm using a 1.5' breaker bar, acetone and so far the bolt won't budge.  I couldn't find a metal cheater bar I've used in the past, but that might be my next step.  I did find my old air impact wrench, but...it's over 30 years old and doesn't work any more and my even older compressor might not be working well with the higher psi settings.

I started looking at air impact wrenches and, wow, the options. In the back of my mind I thought I might buy a new air impact and I don't even know if my compressor will work with it.  Then somebody on another forum asked me why don't I just buy a chordless impact wrench.  

That didn't even register with me.  Chordless...whaaa...?  My first thought was how does the wrench get air from the compressor if there's no chord?    I'm not always quick with mechanical related things.  After a few online searches it dawns on me that chordless means they got batt...ooooohhhhhh. 

  

Cool! And I resumed my search.

How many chordless impact wrench brands does this planet need?  And how much impact wrench power do I really need considering I'm working mainly on motorcycles?

So with about 20 different internet pages open and my head spinning, I see that perhaps my first decision is whether to go with 3/8" or 1/2".  Seems that some people say 3/8" will do 90% of what you want, others say just go with 1/2" but be careful.  The 3/8" impacts seem to be smaller and lighter...and cheaper, but maybe the reason I need an impact wrench is for that 10% of the time.

Questions: 
1) If I'm thinking for this current 19mm stuck bolt, 3/8" OK or go for the bigger 1/2" because if I have it, I'll use it for more "stuck things" in the future?

2) Brands: Since I haven't even used my air impact wrench in probably 20+ years, I ask myself a) how often will I use it? and b) how long will I live?  In other words, maybe I don't need the best of the best.  I'd like to stay around $200 or less with battery included, which allows me for lots of brand I've never heard of, and maybe allows me to buy a lower end "nice one".  Many seem to like Milwaukee.

--a 3/8" Milwaukee mid-torq impact (3.4lbs / $200 w/out battery)
--a 3/8" Milwaukee M18 compact (2.7lbs / $150 w/out battery)
--a 1/2" Milwaukee M18, heavier
--or one of the cheap brands: aeropro, Seesii, Protmex, Agsen, Sundpel, etc.

--other recognized by me brands: dewalt, ingersoll rand, ryobi, makita, craftsman

--one that you recommend because of your own experience?

Thanks for any input.  If the cheater bar works, I may not even bother, but at the same time maybe an impact would help me as I age and loose some strength.

[pekingduck]

I'm in the middle of a suspension project for my DR650--putting on a new rear shock.  I got the shock out and decided it was a good time to check the swing arm pivot bolt and bearings, other linkage as sometimes from the factory they don't have much grease.  Indeed, I was able to pack in quite a bit more on the swing arm pivot bearings.  I moved on to the dog-bone links and one bolt I loosened fine to detach swing arm from the bike, but the other end of the dog-bones has another bolt with bearings.  And I cannot get this bolt free with what I have on hand.

I've tried PB Blaster, applying heat, I'm using a 1.5' breaker bar, acetone and so far the bolt won't budge.  I couldn't find a metal cheater bar I've used in the past, but that might be my next step.  I did find my old air impact wrench, but...it's over 30 years old and doesn't work any more and my even older compressor might not be working well with the higher psi settings.

I started looking at air impact wrenches and, wow, the options. In the back of my mind I thought I might buy a new air impact and I don't even know if my compressor will work with it.  Then somebody on another forum asked me why don't I just buy a chordless impact wrench.  

That didn't even register with me.  Chordless...whaaa...?  My first thought was how does the wrench get air from the compressor if there's no chord?    I'm not always quick with mechanical related things.  After a few online searches it dawns on me that chordless means they got batt...ooooohhhhhh. 

  

Cool! And I resumed my search.

How many chordless impact wrench brands does this planet need?  And how much impact wrench power do I really need considering I'm working mainly on motorcycles?

So with about 20 different internet pages open and my head spinning, I see that perhaps my first decision is whether to go with 3/8" or 1/2".  Seems that some people say 3/8" will do 90% of what you want, others say just go with 1/2" but be careful.  The 3/8" impacts seem to be smaller and lighter...and cheaper, but maybe the reason I need an impact wrench is for that 10% of the time.

Questions: 
1) If I'm thinking for this current 19mm stuck bolt, 3/8" OK or go for the bigger 1/2" because if I have it, I'll use it for more "stuck things" in the future?

2) Brands: Since I haven't even used my air impact wrench in probably 20+ years, I ask myself a) how often will I use it? and b) how long will I live?  In other words, maybe I don't need the best of the best.  I'd like to stay around $200 or less with battery included, which allows me for lots of brand I've never heard of, and maybe allows me to buy a lower end "nice one".  Many seem to like Milwaukee.

--a 3/8" Milwaukee mid-torq impact (3.4lbs / $200 w/out battery)
--a 3/8" Milwaukee M18 compact (2.7lbs / $150 w/out battery)
--a 1/2" Milwaukee M18, heavier
--or one of the cheap brands: aeropro, Seesii, Protmex, Agsen, Sundpel, etc.

--other recognized by me brands: dewalt, ingersoll rand, ryobi, makita, craftsman

--one that you recommend because of your own experience?

Thanks for any input.  If the cheater bar works, I may not even bother, but at the same time maybe an impact would help me as I age and loose some strength.

If PB Blaster and heat doesn't loosen it, I'd expect it's time to order new bolts.  Sometimes snapping the head or nut off the bolt is an answer.

If something doesn't loosen by hand, I use an 18v Ryobi 3/8 drive cordless impact for most tough stuff.  But I have an old, heavy Ingersol-Rand corded 1/2" impact for anything else.  

Very last resort is my 18v Ryobi portable bandsaw or sawzall to cut off the bolt head or nut.    (Ryobi because it was cheap, plentiful and is what my other stuff is - the bandsaw is awesome!)

[Gone in 60]

I’d think if the breaker bar doesn’t loosen or snap the bolt off, an impact wouldn’t do much better, especially a cordless unit.

I’m cheap and have “Bauer” brand impact from Harbor Freight. Does the job for light duty.

[peterbaron]

This is what my techs use in our shop, Milwaukee, 1/2" drive, cordless impact gun.
Price, about U$230

[pdedse]

This is what my techs use in our shop, Milwaukee, 1/2" drive, cordless impact gun.
Price, about U$230

I see that some Milwuakee impacts are m12 and others m18...what's the difference between the two?

[kennyw]

M12 is a 12V battery, M18 is an 18V battery.

Milwaukee M18 is considered one of the best available, but if you buy the impact, you may as well buy the cordless drill, cordless saws, etc, so get them all with the same battery family.

I use Ridgid brand from Home Depot as they offer a lifetime warranty/service contract that no other brand offers. As long as you register for the warranty within a specified period of time, you can send it in for free service when the tool breaks and they will repair it. I bought into this brand because a friend that is a contractor recommended them, and it has been helpful. I have killed my original impact a couple times, I missed having it so much I bought a second one to use while it was getting repaired and the newer one was even better.

I have also heard good things from the premium cordless tools from Harbor Freight at a slightly cheaper price point than the bigger brands.

[Lunchbag]

I use Ridgid brand from Home Depot as they offer a lifetime warranty/service contract that no other brand offers.

I use them too, and they're pretty good.  I heated up the drill pretty hot this evening drilling 1/2" holes in steel plate.  Still works though.

Surprisingly, my favorite tool in the series is the tire inflator...to be able to walk around to all the cars, trailers, motorcycles, etc. and quickly top them off is so convenient compared to getting out a heavy air compressor, hooking up the hose, fittings, extension cord, lugging it around, draining the moisture when finished, etc.

Back to the impact wrench question, I would buy whichever cordless model matches the cordless tools you already have, assuming it gets good reviews.  And I would use the highest capacity battery you have.

[pekingduck]

I use Ridgid brand from Home Depot as they offer a lifetime warranty/service contract that no other brand offers.

I use them too, and they're pretty good.  I heated up the drill pretty hot this evening drilling 1/2" holes in steel plate.  Still works though.

Surprisingly, my favorite tool in the series is the tire inflator...to be able to walk around to all the cars, trailers, motorcycles, etc. and quickly top them off is so convenient compared to getting out a heavy air compressor, hooking up the hose, fittings, extension cord, lugging it around, draining the moisture when finished, etc.

Back to the impact wrench question, I would buy whichever cordless model matches the cordless tools you already have, assuming it gets good reviews.  And I would use the highest capacity battery you have.

My Ryobi tire inflator is a really handy, useful tool.  You still need a plug-in compressor for big jobs, but it replaced my small compressor on wheels.

[pdedse]

I thought I'd try a cheater bar before spending more money on tools.  Home Depot has 6' fencing poles, that seemed like overkill.  Autozone had a 24" breaker bar--I realized I was using an 18" one, so I bought it for $32.  Got home all excited...nada.  I couldn't get the bolt to budge not even a smidjet.  Talked a long while with my mechanic brother and he really thought a longer bar would work, just what to use?

I seached again and found comments on Reddit and a guy suggested try using the handle from a lift.  I knew right away my mc lift did, indeed, have a removeable handle and I practically ran out to the garage.

Handle off (lift is supporting my DR650)


Oh yeah, I think this just might work


Removed sandles, on with the mc boots for better stability


And right away, I got a squaaak noise I hadn't heard yet; tried again and got some movement! But I realized the bolt was spinning, so I placed the 12" breaker bar flat against the swing arm and as I pulled on the cheater bar, that made the 12" bar snug up tight...and the darn nut finally started to loosen, very reluctantly.


At last...


...nut off, bolt removed, I can proceed to lubricating bearings and bolt.  Then a few more linkage bearings to check and on with the new Cogent fancy-smancy shock.  

So no new chordless impact for me...for the moment.

[Cormanus]

Ah ... the power of the lever.